Agave Pups on Stem: How to Harvest and Propagate Them

Agave plants are famous for their flowering display, which is often a terminal event in the plant’s life cycle. This phenomenon, known as monocarpic flowering, means the parent rosette will die after reproduction. However, this process often creates miniature plantlets, scientifically called bulbils, that form directly on the towering flower stalk, or quiote. These stem pups are a natural method of vegetative reproduction, allowing you to propagate a clone of the original plant before it dies. Harvesting and establishing these plantlets ensures the lineage of your prized agave continues.

Recognizing Stem Pups and Optimal Timing

These stem pups appear as tiny, perfect agave rosettes clustering along the flower stalk after the actual flowers have faded. They are distinct from true basal pups, or hijuelos, which emerge from the underground root system of the parent plant. Bulbils are aerial plantlets that draw nutrients directly from the stalk as they grow, bypassing the slower process of growing from seed.

The optimal time for harvesting is when the bulbils are well-formed and have begun to develop roots or root nubs. Selecting pups that are typically 2 to 4 inches wide increases the chances of successful establishment. Harvesting coincides with the parent plant’s final reproductive stage, as the stalk matures and the parent rosette begins its decline. Waiting until they show signs of independent rooting ensures they have the best capacity to survive on their own.

Safe Removal Techniques for Harvesting

The physical removal process requires precision to minimize damage to the fragile base of the pup. Begin by selecting a sharp cutting tool, such as a knife or small pair of pruning shears, and sterilize the blade with rubbing alcohol to prevent the transmission of pathogens. The flowering stalk itself can be quite tall, so a stable ladder may be required for safe access to the upper bulbils.

Make a clean cut as close to the main stalk as possible without cutting into the rosette’s base. Alternatively, some bulbils can be gently twisted off the stalk by hand if they have developed a sufficient break point. Wear thick gloves and long sleeves when handling any agave variety to protect your skin from injury. A clean separation is important because a jagged tear leaves a vulnerable wound susceptible to rot.

Curing Pups Before Planting

Curing prepares the harvested bulbil for planting. This process involves allowing the cut surface at the base of the pup to dry out and form a hard, protective layer called a callus. This natural wound closure seals the open tissue, preventing water loss and blocking the entry of fungal and bacterial pathogens from the soil.

To cure the pup, place it in a dry, shaded, and well-ventilated location, keeping it out of direct sunlight. Callusing typically ranges from three to seven days, depending on the size of the wound and local humidity levels. The base is sufficiently cured when the tissue feels dry and firm to the touch, resembling a scab.

Planting and Initial Establishment Care

Once the bulbil has a hardened callus, it is ready to be planted in a well-draining mix, such as potting soil amended with pumice or perlite. Excellent drainage is necessary, as agave roots will quickly succumb to rot in soggy conditions. Use a pot that is only slightly larger than the bulbil to encourage the establishment of a healthy root system.

When planting, ensure the callused base is just covered by the soil, but avoid burying the entire rosette crown, which can lead to moisture retention and decay. Lightly firm the soil around the pup to hold it stable while roots are forming. Place the newly planted bulbil in a spot that receives bright, filtered light, as young plantlets are sensitive to full sun.

Delay the initial watering for at least two weeks to give the pup time to acclimate and begin rooting without the risk of immediate rot. After this period, water sparingly, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out completely between waterings. Once the plant feels firmly anchored, typically after two to four weeks, it can be gradually transitioned to full sun and a typical agave watering schedule.