Yes, you can grow eucalyptus from cuttings, but success depends heavily on the species you’re working with and the conditions you provide. Some eucalyptus species root readily from cuttings, while others are notoriously difficult and may need more advanced techniques like tissue culture. Even under commercial nursery conditions, survival rates for eucalyptus cuttings often sit below 50%, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts fail.
Which Species Root Best
Not all eucalyptus are created equal when it comes to cutting propagation. The species with the best track record include E. grandis, E. camaldulensis, E. deglupta (rainbow eucalyptus), and E. pellita. These have been successfully propagated from cuttings at commercial scale, especially in tropical and subtropical climates with high rainfall.
On the other hand, several popular species are considered genuinely hard to root from cuttings. Lemon-scented gum (C. citriodora), silver dollar eucalyptus (E. globulus), and shining gum (E. nitens) all fall into this category. Developing reliable cutting propagation for these difficult species remains an ongoing challenge even for professional forestry operations. If you’re working with one of these, growing from seed is often more practical.
When to Take Cuttings
The best cuttings come from semi-hardened new growth, meaning shoots that are no longer soft and green but haven’t fully turned woody yet. This stage typically arrives about six weeks after new shoots emerge. In practice, spring and early summer are the most common windows for taking cuttings, though the ideal timing hasn’t been pinned down precisely and can range from late winter through midsummer depending on your climate.
Younger parent plants produce cuttings that root far more reliably than mature trees. If you’re taking cuttings from an established eucalyptus, look for new shoots sprouting from the base or from areas that have been recently pruned. These juvenile-type shoots behave more like young plant material and have a much better chance of rooting.
How to Prepare the Cuttings
Take tip cuttings about 10 to 15 centimeters long from semi-hardened shoots. Strip the lower leaves, leaving just two or three pairs at the top. If the remaining leaves are large, cut them in half to reduce moisture loss. Make a clean cut just below a leaf node at the base.
Rooting hormone makes a meaningful difference. Research on eucalyptus clones found that cuttings treated with a moderate concentration of IBA (indole-3-butyric acid, the active ingredient in most commercial rooting powders and gels) had the highest survival rates, around 43% for easier species. Higher concentrations actually performed worse, with survival dropping to about 32% at the strongest dose tested. A standard-strength rooting powder or gel from your local garden center should work well. Dip the base of each cutting and tap off the excess before planting.
The Right Growing Medium
Eucalyptus cuttings need a mix that holds moisture without staying waterlogged. A blend of roughly 75% composted bark and 25% perlite has produced good results in commercial propagation. If composted bark is hard to find, a mix of peat (or coco coir) and perlite in similar proportions works as a substitute. The key is excellent drainage. Cuttings sitting in soggy substrate are prone to stem rot, which is one of the most common causes of failure.
Use small individual pots or cell trays rather than planting multiple cuttings in one container. This minimizes root disturbance when you eventually transplant and helps prevent disease from spreading between cuttings.
Temperature, Humidity, and Light
Eucalyptus cuttings need consistently warm, humid conditions to root. Aim for daytime temperatures between 20°C and 32°C (roughly 68°F to 90°F), with nights no cooler than 15°C (59°F). Relative humidity should stay above 85 to 90% around the cuttings. When humidity drops below about 75%, rooting success falls off noticeably.
The simplest way to maintain humidity at home is to place your pots inside a clear plastic bag or under a propagation dome. Mist the cuttings regularly, especially on warm days, but make sure there’s some air circulation. Stagnant, overly wet conditions invite fungal problems. A brief daily venting of your humidity cover helps balance moisture with airflow. Place the setup in bright indirect light, not direct sun, which can overheat the enclosed space and cook the cuttings.
How Long Rooting Takes
In warm, tropical conditions, eucalyptus cuttings can root within a few weeks, with plants ready for planting out in two to three months. In cooler climates, expect the process to take longer. You’ll know roots are forming when the cutting resists a gentle tug or when you see new leaf growth at the tips. Avoid pulling the cutting out to check. Instead, watch for roots emerging from the drainage holes of the pot.
Once cuttings are clearly rooted and producing new growth, gradually harden them off by opening the humidity cover for longer periods each day over a week or two. Then move them to a sheltered outdoor spot before transplanting to their final location.
Why Cuttings Fail
The most common killers are fungal stem rot and simple drying out. Fungal infections typically start at the cut surface or at points where you stripped leaves, then spread down through the stem. The warm, humid environment that eucalyptus cuttings need to root is also the environment that fungal pathogens thrive in. Using clean, sharp tools, fresh potting mix, and sterilized containers reduces the risk. Remove any cutting that develops dark, mushy tissue at its base immediately, before the problem spreads.
The other major factor is the age and vigor of the parent material. Cuttings from mature, woody branches root poorly regardless of how perfect your setup is. Weak or stressed cuttings are especially vulnerable to infection. Always select vigorous, healthy shoots from the youngest growth you can find on the plant.
What to Expect Realistically
Even in professional nurseries with misting systems and controlled environments, eucalyptus cutting survival rates vary widely. The best-performing individual clones in research trials reached 75% survival, but overall averages across species and clones tend to sit between 30% and 45%. For a home gardener without automated misting and climate control, expect lower rates. Starting with at least twice as many cuttings as you actually need is a smart strategy. If you’re working with a species known to be difficult to propagate, consider starting from seed instead, or sourcing a nursery-grown seedling and using it as a stock plant once it’s established.