A spider plant “baby,” technically known as a plantlet or spiderette, is a small, genetically identical clone that forms at the end of a long, wiry stem called a stolon. These offsets are a natural part of the Chlorophytum comosum’s reproductive process, following the appearance of small white flowers on the long stalks. You can leave these plantlets attached, as the plant is perfectly capable of sustaining them. The choice involves balancing aesthetics and the mother plant’s energy allocation.
Consequences of Leaving Plantlets Attached
Leaving the plantlets attached contributes to a fuller, more voluminous appearance for the mother plant, often creating a cascading curtain of foliage. This effect is desirable when the plant is grown in a hanging basket, allowing the stolons and attached spiderettes to trail dramatically. Over time, the plantlets grow large and develop small, brown, knob-like aerial roots, adding to the dense look of the specimen.
The primary biological trade-off for this fuller look is the continuous energy drain placed on the mother plant. The mother must dedicate resources—water, nutrients, and photosynthates—to support the growth of every attached plantlet through the connecting stolon. While a healthy spider plant can easily manage this load, excessive numbers of plantlets may slightly slow the mother plant’s overall growth rate or reduce its size over many seasons. Removing the plantlets allows the parent plant to redirect that energy back into its own growth, resulting in a potentially larger, more robust central plant.
Criteria and Technique for Plantlet Removal
If propagation is the goal, plantlets should only be removed once they have matured sufficiently to survive independently. The most reliable indicator of readiness is the presence of small, firm aerial roots, which appear as brownish bumps or nubs at the base of the plantlet. Waiting until the plantlet is visually substantial, often with at least four to five small leaves, also increases the chance of successful establishment.
The physical separation should be executed using a clean, sterilized cutting tool, such as sharp scissors or shears, to minimize the risk of introducing pathogens. Snip the stolon a few centimeters away from the base of the plantlet, leaving a short stub of the stem attached. This piece of stem acts as a handle and a buffer, protecting the developing root area from damage during the rooting process. Once the plantlet is removed, the remaining flower stem can be cut back completely to the mother plant’s base for a tidy appearance.
Successful Rooting and Transplanting
Once the plantlet has been severed from the stolon, there are two common methods for encouraging independent root establishment. The first is water propagation, where the plantlet’s base is suspended in water, ensuring the leaves remain dry to prevent rot. This method offers the advantage of visible, rapid root development, but the resulting roots are often weaker and may struggle to adapt when moved to soil.
The second, generally preferred method is direct potting, which produces stronger, soil-acclimated roots from the start. A well-draining soil mix is essential, such as standard potting soil amended with perlite or coconut fibers for enhanced aeration and moisture retention. The plantlet is inserted into the prepared soil, covering the root nubs, and the soil is kept consistently moist but never waterlogged.
A variation involves “pinning” the plantlet into a separate pot of soil while it remains attached to the mother plant. This allows it to receive nutrients from the parent until it establishes its own robust root system, at which point the stolon is cut. Newly established plantlets thrive in bright, indirect light and require consistently moist soil until their root systems are fully developed.