Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) is a low-growing, mat-forming groundcover known for its dense foliage and strong, aromatic scent. This resilient plant is often used in landscaping for its ability to tolerate foot traffic and suppress weeds. When gardeners notice damage to this herb, a common concern is whether wild rabbits are responsible for the grazing.
Palatability of Creeping Thyme to Rabbits
Rabbits generally avoid creeping thyme, largely due to the high concentration of volatile essential oils within the plant’s foliage. These aromatic compounds, which include thymol and carvacrol, produce a pungent flavor and strong odor that mammals like rabbits find unappealing. Thyme is frequently listed among plants that are less desirable to many common garden herbivores.
The avoidance, however, is not absolute, and a rabbit will consume creeping thyme under certain conditions. During periods of drought or heavy snow cover, when preferred food sources like tender grasses and clover become scarce, a rabbit’s dietary selectivity decreases significantly. Young or newly established thyme plantings may also be more vulnerable, as their stems and leaves are less woody and contain lower concentrations of defensive oils. Therefore, while thyme is low on the preference list, it can become a food source when a rabbit is sufficiently hungry.
Identifying Rabbit Damage
Confirming that a rabbit is the culprit requires a close inspection of the damaged plant material and the surrounding area. Unlike deer, which lack upper incisors and tear foliage, rabbits have sharp incisors that leave a clean, precise cut. This signature damage appears as if the stems have been neatly clipped at a 45-degree angle. The damage typically occurs close to the ground, usually within 18 inches of the soil surface, which is the maximum height a rabbit can easily reach while foraging.
Other signs of rabbit presence include small, spherical droppings, which are often scattered throughout the affected area. Additionally, rabbits may create shallow scrapes in the dirt where they have attempted to dig for roots or rest. Distinguishing rabbit feeding from that of voles is also important, as voles tend to gnaw raggedly on bark and feed primarily below the snow line or near the soil surface.
Immediate Deterrent Strategies
Immediate, short-term deterrents can be deployed to make the thyme patch temporarily unpalatable or inaccessible. One of the most effective immediate solutions involves temporary physical barriers, such as small chicken wire cloches or hoops placed directly over the creeping thyme. These barriers should be secured firmly to the ground to prevent a rabbit from nudging them aside to gain access. A mesh size of one inch or smaller is recommended to ensure young rabbits cannot squeeze through.
Taste and scent repellents offer another quick solution by making the plants undesirable to consume. Commercial sprays often contain ingredients like putrescent egg solids or predator urine to signal danger to the rabbits. Alternatively, dusting the plants with finely ground cayenne pepper or scattering blood meal around the perimeter can provide a strong, unpleasant scent barrier. The effectiveness of all topical deterrents is temporary and significantly reduced by rainfall or overhead watering, requiring reapplication every few days or immediately after precipitation.
Motion-activated sprinklers can also serve as a sudden, startling deterrent when a rabbit enters the area. These devices use an infrared sensor to detect movement and release a burst of water, startling the animal and training it to avoid the space. While these immediate measures are useful for crisis management, they are not a substitute for more robust, permanent exclusion methods.
Long-Term Rabbit Exclusion Strategies
For lasting protection, a structural change to the garden perimeter is typically the most reliable approach to manage rabbit presence. Installing a permanent wire mesh fence around the affected area is highly effective, but it must be constructed to prevent both jumping and burrowing. A fence height of at least two to three feet above ground is necessary to prevent cottontail rabbits from leaping over the barrier.
The most important element of permanent exclusion is preventing the rabbit from digging underneath the fence. The bottom edge of the wire mesh should be buried at least six inches deep into the soil. For maximum security, the buried portion can be bent outward into an “L-shape” that extends horizontally for four to six inches away from the garden. This underground flange discourages burrowing rabbits that dig down alongside the vertical fence line.
Habitat modification around the garden also plays a significant role in long-term control by making the yard less inviting. Removing low-lying brush piles, dense weed patches, and debris eliminates the sheltered hiding spots that rabbits use for resting and nesting during the day. Keeping the area clear of these dense cover areas reduces the overall appeal of the landscape as a safe foraging zone.