The Money Plant, widely known as Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), is a popular, resilient houseplant appreciated for its trailing vines and heart-shaped foliage. While Pothos tolerates dim environments, the quality and quantity of light they receive primarily determines their health, growth rate, and aesthetic appearance. Understanding their illumination requirements is necessary for cultivating a thriving specimen.
The Ideal Light Environment
Pothos plants grow best when exposed to bright, indirect light, which mimics their native environment beneath tropical forest canopies. This illumination provides the energy necessary for robust photosynthesis without stressing the leaf tissues. Placing the plant near an east-facing window often provides this gentle, bright morning light, which is strong but not intense enough to cause harm.
Bright indirect light means the plant is positioned where it can see a large section of the sky but never receives direct sun rays for extended periods. If a south or west-facing window is the only option, place the plant several feet away from the glass. Using a sheer curtain to diffuse the intensity of the afternoon sun is an effective strategy to maintain optimal light levels.
Light directly influences the plant’s variegation, the attractive pattern of yellow or white marbling on the leaves. Variegated cultivars, such as ‘Golden Pothos’ or ‘Marble Queen,’ have leaf tissue deficient in chlorophyll. Maintaining these vibrant patterns requires higher light intensity so the green, chlorophyll-rich areas can produce enough energy to support the entire leaf.
When light is insufficient, the plant adapts by producing more chlorophyll across the entire leaf surface to maximize energy capture. This response causes variegated areas to revert to a solid green color, known as reversion. To preserve the characteristic splashes of color, providing high-quality, indirect light is necessary.
Pothos benefit from receiving bright, indirect light for about 12 to 14 hours per day to support vigorous growth. While they survive in lower light, they will not display their full growth potential or aesthetic appeal. Consistent, high-quality light exposure ensures the plant maximizes photosynthetic output, leading to faster growth and larger, healthier leaves.
Diagnosing Insufficient Light
When a Money Plant is placed in conditions that are too dim, it displays characteristic symptoms as it attempts to compensate for the lack of energy. The most noticeable sign is etiolation, or “leggy growth,” which manifests as long, bare stretches of stem between the leaves. This occurs because the plant is stretching its internodes (the space between leaf nodes) to reach toward the nearest light source.
During this stretching process, the plant conserves energy by producing new leaves that are significantly smaller than the older foliage. The leaves may also appear a lighter, sickly green color because reduced light limits the plant’s ability to produce dense chlorophyll structures. This combination of long, thin stems and diminutive leaves results in a sparse and scraggly appearance that detracts from the plant’s natural fullness.
A reduction in growth rate is another indicator of insufficient light, as photosynthesis slows dramatically. For variegated varieties, the loss of color or reversion to solid green is a sure sign the plant is not receiving enough light to sustain the non-photosynthetic portions. The plant sacrifices its ornamental pattern for survival by maximizing chlorophyll content.
If these signs are observed, the immediate remedy involves relocating the plant to a location with higher light intensity. Moving the pot closer to a suitable window or providing supplemental artificial light will halt the etiolation process. Addressing light deprivation encourages the plant to push out new, fuller, and more colorful growth, though bare sections of the older stem will not spontaneously produce new leaves.
Preventing Direct Sunlight Damage
While the Money Plant requires light to thrive, exposure to harsh, direct sunlight must be avoided, especially through a window pane. Window glass intensifies the heat and light, magnifying the sun’s rays onto the delicate foliage. This unfiltered exposure quickly overwhelms the plant’s natural defenses, which are adapted for the dappled light beneath a jungle canopy.
The most common symptom of too much direct sun is sun scorch, which appears as large, irregularly shaped brown or crispy patches on the leaves. Heat causes the leaf cells to break down, resulting in permanent, necrotic damage that will not heal. These scorched areas are observed on the leaves closest to the window or those receiving the peak afternoon sun.
Before scorching occurs, the leaves may show signs of bleaching, where the entire leaf or variegated sections take on a pale, yellowish-white appearance. This defensive reaction protects the photosynthetic apparatus by reducing chlorophyll density in response to excessive light energy. The foliage may also curl or wilt dramatically as the plant loses moisture faster than its roots can supply it, even if the soil is adequately watered.
To prevent this damage, avoid placing Pothos directly in the path of unobstructed south or west-facing windows, as these deliver the most intense afternoon sunlight. If these are the only available spots, position the plant at least five to six feet away, or cover the glass with a sheer curtain or window film to diffuse the light intensity. Moving the plant gradually into brighter light helps it acclimate and build tolerance against sun stress.
When Pothos is grown outdoors, it naturally seeks filtered light, often climbing trees to avoid the harsh midday sun. If moving Pothos outside for the summer, it must be placed in a shaded area, such as beneath a patio cover or a dense tree canopy. Failure to transition the plant slowly or place it in full shade will result in severe leaf burn within a few hours.