Several popular fabrics are made from wood pulp, including viscose (also called rayon), modal, lyocell, and acetate. These are known as man-made cellulosic fibers because they start as natural plant material but go through chemical processing to become wearable textiles. Global production hit 7.9 million tonnes in 2023, making up about 6% of all fiber produced worldwide.
These fabrics sit in an interesting middle ground. They’re not fully synthetic like polyester (which comes from petroleum), and they’re not minimally processed like cotton or linen. They begin as wood chips and end as soft, draping fabric through a series of chemical transformations. The differences between them come down to how that transformation happens.
The Main Fabrics Made From Wood Pulp
Viscose (rayon) is the oldest and most common. First produced commercially in 1889 as “artificial silk,” it got the name “rayon” when DuPont began large-scale manufacturing, marketing its shiny appearance as catching rays of sunlight. Viscose is lightweight, breathable, and drapes beautifully, which is why it shows up in blouses, dresses, and linings. The tradeoff is durability: it weakens when wet and can shrink or lose its shape after a single wash cycle in warm water.
Modal is essentially an upgraded version of viscose. It’s made through a similar chemical process but with modifications that produce a stronger, more stable fiber. Modal holds its shape better after washing, feels silkier against the skin, and resists pilling. You’ll find it in underwear, pajamas, and T-shirts where softness and repeated washing matter.
Lyocell (often sold under the brand name Tencel) is the newest of the group and the most environmentally friendly. It’s stronger than viscose both wet and dry, resists wrinkles, and has a smooth texture that works well for everything from jeans to bedsheets. More on its production advantages below.
Acetate is chemically distinct from the others. Rather than fully dissolving and regenerating the cellulose, the process modifies it into a different compound. Acetate has a glossy, silk-like finish and is most often used in formalwear linings, special occasion dresses, and cigarette filters. It’s less common in everyday clothing because it’s delicate and doesn’t breathe as well as viscose or lyocell.
Where the Wood Comes From
The trees harvested for textile pulp are typically fast-growing species chosen for their high cellulose content. Eucalyptus, beech, birch, pine, and poplar are the most common sources. Eucalyptus and poplar are especially popular because they grow quickly and produce usable pulp in relatively short harvest cycles. Bamboo, though technically a grass, goes through the same chemical conversion process and ends up as a similar type of regenerated cellulose fiber.
Sourcing matters because wood pulp production can drive deforestation if not managed responsibly. Two major certification systems help track this: the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Programme for Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC). Both verify that wood comes from sustainably managed forests. The CanopyStyle Audit offers additional third-party checks specifically assessing whether textile producers are sourcing from endangered forests. If you’re buying wood pulp fabrics and sustainability matters to you, look for these certifications on the label or the brand’s website.
How Wood Becomes Fabric
The basic idea is the same for all wood pulp fabrics: extract cellulose from wood chips, dissolve it into a liquid, then push that liquid through tiny holes (called a spinneret) to form solid fibers. Those fibers get spun into yarn and woven or knitted into fabric. The critical difference between viscose, modal, and lyocell is what chemicals do the dissolving.
The Viscose Process
Making viscose starts with breaking wood into cellulose pulp, then soaking it in caustic soda (sodium hydroxide). After steeping, the pulp is shredded and aged, then treated with carbon disulfide to form an orange-colored compound called cellulose xanthate. This gets dissolved in another round of caustic soda to create a thick, honey-like liquid. That liquid is forced through spinnerets into a bath of sulfuric acid, which hardens the cellulose back into solid fibers.
It’s an effective process, but a messy one. Carbon disulfide is a volatile chemical linked to dizziness, headaches, anxiety, vision changes, and damage to the heart, liver, kidneys, and nervous system in exposed workers. Along with zinc and sulfuric acid, these chemicals can escape the manufacturing process and contaminate surrounding air and water. This is the main environmental criticism of conventional viscose production.
The Lyocell Process
Lyocell production skips the most hazardous chemicals entirely. Instead of carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid, it uses a single non-toxic solvent called NMMO (a type of organic oxide) mixed with water to dissolve the cellulose directly. The dissolved cellulose is extruded through spinnerets in a similar way, but here’s the key advantage: more than 99% of the solvent is captured and recycled back into the system in a closed loop. Very little waste escapes. Fewer chemicals go in, and almost nothing comes out, which makes lyocell production significantly cleaner than conventional viscose manufacturing.
How They Feel and Perform
All wood pulp fabrics share some common traits. They’re breathable, absorb moisture well, and drape in a way that feels fluid against the body. Fibers derived from wood pulp are used heavily in hygiene products precisely because of their absorbency. In clothing, this translates to comfort in warm weather, though it also means these fabrics can feel clammy if they absorb too much sweat without drying quickly.
Viscose is the softest but least durable of the group. It wrinkles easily and loses up to half its strength when wet. Modal improves on this with better wet strength and shape retention. Lyocell is the most resilient: it holds up well through repeated washing, resists wrinkles, and maintains its drape over time. All three feel noticeably different from cotton. They’re smoother, cooler to the touch, and have a subtle sheen that gives garments a slightly more polished look.
Caring for Wood Pulp Fabrics
Viscose is the most temperamental. Warm or hot water can cause sudden, dramatic shrinkage, leaving garments shorter, narrower, or completely misshapen after just one cycle. Dry cleaning is the safest option for viscose pieces you want to keep looking good. If you do wash viscose at home, use cold water, a gentle cycle, and lay it flat to dry rather than wringing or tumbling it.
Modal and lyocell are more forgiving. Both can typically handle machine washing in cool or lukewarm water, though checking the care label is still worth the few seconds it takes. Lyocell in particular holds up well to regular laundering without significant shrinkage or pilling, which is one reason it’s become popular for everyday basics and bedding. Regardless of the specific fiber, avoiding high heat in the dryer will extend the life of any wood pulp fabric.
Environmental Tradeoffs
Wood pulp fabrics occupy a complicated space in sustainability conversations. On the positive side, they’re biodegradable and come from a renewable resource. Trees can be replanted, unlike the petroleum used to make polyester. On the negative side, conventional viscose production relies on toxic chemicals and can contribute to deforestation when sourcing isn’t managed well.
Lyocell represents the clearest step forward: non-toxic solvent, closed-loop recycling, and lower water usage compared to both viscose and cotton. Modal falls somewhere in between, with some producers adopting cleaner processes while others still use conventional methods. If environmental impact matters to you, lyocell is the strongest choice among wood pulp fabrics. Beyond that, look for FSC or PEFC certification on any wood-based textile to ensure the raw material came from responsibly managed forests.