The Clivia, also known as the Natal Lily or Kaffir Lily, is a highly prized houseplant originating from South Africa. Its popularity stems from its robust, dark green, strap-like foliage and its dramatic clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers, typically in striking shades of orange or yellow. Achieving these beautiful blooms requires understanding the plant’s natural growth cycle, which includes a specific period of induced rest. This guide details the care regimen necessary to encourage spectacular flowering.
Essential Ongoing Care Requirements
Clivia plants thrive best in conditions that mimic their native forest floor environment, which means bright light that is always indirect. Placing the plant near a north-facing window provides consistent light without the risk of scorching, while an east-facing window can offer gentle morning sun. Direct, intense sunlight, particularly during the afternoon, can quickly burn the leaves, causing unsightly pale green or brown lesions.
During the active growing season, which spans from spring through fall, the plant requires deep but infrequent watering. The fleshy, tuberous roots of the Clivia are adapted to store water, making the plant susceptible to rot if overwatered. Wait until the top inch or two of the potting medium has dried completely before watering thoroughly, allowing excess water to drain fully from the bottom of the pot.
A rich, porous, and well-draining soil mix is paramount to prevent the waterlogged conditions that lead to root rot. A suitable blend often includes a standard potting mix amended with materials like orchid bark, coarse sand, or perlite to enhance aeration and drainage. Throughout the spring and summer months, the Clivia prefers average indoor temperatures ranging from 60°F to 75°F, aligning with comfortable household conditions.
Manipulating Temperature and Rest for Flowering
The single most determinative factor in prompting a Clivia to bloom is successfully implementing a cool, dry rest period, which simulates the plant’s natural winter dormancy. This period of physiological stress triggers the development of the flower spike, or scape, for the subsequent spring bloom. The process should begin in late fall or early winter, spanning a duration of six to twelve weeks.
The ideal temperature range for this dormancy must be consistently cooler than the active growing season, ideally between 40°F and 55°F. A slightly heated garage, a cool spare room, or a basement window area are often appropriate locations. Ensure the temperature never drops below freezing, which would be lethal to the plant. This temperature drop signals to the plant that it is time to shift its energy from vegetative growth to reproductive development.
Alongside the temperature reduction, water must be drastically restricted for the entire rest period. The soil should be kept nearly dry, receiving only a small amount of water if the leaves show distinct signs of wilting or shriveling. Fertilizer must be completely withheld during this time, as the plant is not in an active growth phase and added nutrients would disrupt the dormancy cycle.
Once the 6- to 12-week rest period is complete, or when a flower spike measuring about four to six inches tall is visible, the plant can be moved back to its warmer growing location. Gradually increase watering to resume the normal growing season schedule, taking care not to suddenly saturate the roots. The combination of increased warmth and water will encourage the flower scape to elongate and the buds to open. Blooms typically appear six to twelve weeks after the rest period ends.
Maintenance, Fertilization, and Repotting
Fertilization should only occur during the plant’s active growth phase, which begins after the successful bloom cycle and continues through early fall. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 formula, should be applied every two to four weeks, but always diluted to half the strength recommended on the product label. This regular feeding supports the production of new leaves and helps the plant store energy for the following year’s bloom cycle.
Once the flowers have faded, the spent flower stalk, or scape, should be cut back close to the base of the plant. Removing the stalk prevents the Clivia from expending energy on producing seeds, allowing it to redirect that energy into vegetative growth and root development. All fertilization should cease by mid-September to prepare the plant for its winter rest.
Clivia plants perform better and bloom more reliably when their roots are slightly confined, a condition known as being root-bound. Repotting is an infrequent task, only necessary every three to five years, or when the roots are so densely packed that they are forcing the plant out of the pot or impeding water absorption. When repotting, select a new container that is only about two inches larger in diameter than the previous one to maintain a slightly snug environment.
If the Clivia has produced offsets, often called pups, these can be separated during the repotting process to create new plants. These offsets should only be divided from the mother plant when they have developed at least three leaves and a small root system of their own. After gently separating the pup, it can be potted in its own well-draining medium, ensuring a clean cut is allowed to dry slightly before planting to prevent fungal issues.