Changing a tennis racket grip takes about five minutes and requires only a few basic tools. Whether you’re replacing the base grip entirely or adding a fresh overgrip on top, the process is straightforward once you understand the wrapping technique. The key is starting at the right spot on the handle, overlapping consistently, and finishing with a clean cut.
Replacement Grip vs. Overgrip
Before you start, it helps to know which type of grip you’re changing. A replacement grip (also called a base grip) is the thicker, cushioned wrap that sits directly on the handle. It comes with adhesive backing and is secured at the bottom with a small staple. An overgrip is a thinner wrap that goes over the base grip, adding tackiness or sweat absorption. Most players swap overgrips frequently and only replace the base grip a few times a year.
Overgrips come in two main styles: tacky and absorbent. Tacky overgrips work well if your hands stay relatively dry, providing a sticky feel that locks the racket in place. Absorbent (sometimes called “dry”) overgrips are better for heavy sweaters, soaking up moisture to maintain control. Absorbent grips wear out faster, though, so expect to replace them more often.
Tools You’ll Need
- Needle-nose pliers or a narrow screwdriver to pull out the existing staple at the base of the handle
- Scissors to trim the new grip and cut finishing tape
- Finishing tape (usually included with a new grip) to secure the top end
- Staple gun (optional) to anchor the starting end of a replacement grip
How to Replace the Base Grip
Start by removing the old grip. Peel off the finishing tape at the top of the handle, then unwrap the grip down to the butt cap. You’ll find a small staple holding the tapered end in place. Use needle-nose pliers or the tip of a screwdriver to pry it out. Once the old grip is off, clean the handle so it’s free of leftover adhesive or grip residue.
If your new replacement grip has a rubber collar (the small band that sits at the top of the grip for a clean finish), slide it onto the handle now, before you start wrapping. Push it up toward the racket head so it’s out of the way.
Peel back about 12 inches of the adhesive backing from the new grip. Find the tapered end, this is your starting point. Attach it to the butt cap, securing it on the same bevel (the same flat side of the octagonal handle) where your old grip started. This reproduces the familiar feel you’re used to. You can use a staple gun here if you want extra security, but it’s not required.
Now brace the racket head against your leg or hip to keep it stable. Hold the grip firmly with one hand while slowly rotating the racket with the other. Overlap each pass by about 1/16 of an inch, just enough that no handle shows through without creating a bulky ridge. Peel the adhesive backing off gradually as you go. If you remove it all at once, the grip will curl and stick to itself, making it nearly impossible to wrap evenly.
When you reach the top of the handle, use a pen or pencil to trace a line straight across the grip, following the edge of the handle. Unwrap just enough to expose that line, then cut along it with scissors. This gives you a clean, straight edge. Wrap it back into place, secure it with finishing tape, and slide the rubber collar down to cover the seam.
How to Wrap an Overgrip
Overgrips are simpler because you’re wrapping over an existing base grip rather than starting from bare handle. Peel off the old overgrip and any leftover finishing tape. No staple removal needed.
Place the tapered end of the new overgrip at the bottom of the handle on a short bevel, angled slightly upward. This angle sets you up for a smooth spiral up the handle. Wrap using the same technique as a replacement grip: brace the racket head, rotate slowly, and overlap slightly with each pass. When you reach the top, trim the excess at an angle and secure it with finishing tape.
Wrapping Direction for Left-Handed Players
If you’re right-handed, you wrap the grip moving from bottom to top in a counter-clockwise direction (when looking at the butt cap from below). Left-handed players wrap in the opposite direction, clockwise. This matters because your dominant hand’s natural grip pressure pushes the edges of the wrap tighter rather than peeling them up. If you wrap in the wrong direction, the overlap will loosen during play and the grip will unravel faster.
When to Change Your Grip
Four signs tell you it’s time for a fresh grip. The most obvious is loss of tackiness: if the racket feels slippery in your hand or you’re squeezing harder than usual to maintain control, the grip surface has worn smooth. Visible wear is the second sign, look for fraying, discoloration, or spots where the material has thinned enough to see through. Third, if you notice the grip isn’t absorbing sweat the way it used to, the material is saturated and past its useful life. Finally, a grip that feels hard or flattened instead of cushioned can cause blisters and general discomfort.
Heavy players who practice several times a week might change overgrips after every session or two. Recreational players can usually get a few weeks out of one. Base grips last much longer since they’re protected by the overgrip, but check them every few months for signs of compression or deterioration.
Does Grip Size Affect Injury Risk?
You’ll sometimes hear that the wrong grip size causes tennis elbow. The reality is more nuanced. A study published in the British Journal of Sports Medicine tested forearm muscle activity across small, recommended, and oversized grips and found no significant differences in muscle firing patterns. Grip sizes within a quarter inch of the recommended measurement didn’t meaningfully change the strain on forearm muscles. That said, a grip that’s wildly too small or too large can still feel uncomfortable and affect your shot control, so sizing correctly is worth doing. It just may not be the injury factor it’s often made out to be.