Xerochrysum bracteatum, commonly known as the straw flower, is a distinctive Australian native prized for its unique texture and long-lasting color. The bright, daisy-like flowers are specialized, papery structures called bracts, which are naturally dry and rigid, giving them a straw-like feel. This composition allows the blooms to retain their vibrant hue and shape long after being picked, making the straw flower popular for both fresh arrangements and dried crafts. Deadheading, which involves removing spent flowers, is a simple maintenance task that encourages the plant to produce a continuous supply of new blooms throughout the growing season.
Why Deadheading Extends Blooms
Deadheading works by manipulating the plant’s natural reproductive cycle. The primary objective of any annual plant is to produce seeds to ensure the next generation. Once a flower has been pollinated and begins to fade, the plant redirects its energy toward the development of the seed head contained within that spent bloom.
By removing the faded flower head before it can mature and set seed, a gardener effectively “tricks” the plant. The straw flower senses that reproduction has been thwarted and responds by diverting its energy back into vegetative growth and the formation of new flower buds. This mechanism promotes a prolific, extended period of blooming, often lasting from late spring until the first frost. Regular removal of the brown or faded heads also maintains a tidy appearance, preventing the unsightly look of decomposing plant material.
Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting
The physical act of deadheading requires making a precise cut to stimulate new growth correctly. Begin by identifying the spent flower head, which will appear faded and may have started to curl or brown, but before the central disc turns into a mature seed head. The goal is to remove the faded flower stem without sacrificing the potential for new branches and buds.
Trace the spent flower stem down the plant to the nearest healthy leaf node, small side shoot, or visible new bud. This point, usually a slight swelling on the stem, is where the plant can initiate new growth. Make a clean cut just above this node, using sharp, clean snips or shears.
The cut should be made at a slight angle, which minimizes the surface area exposed to moisture and helps prevent disease. Cutting back to a healthy growth point encourages the plant to branch out, resulting in two or more new stems, each capable of producing a fresh bloom. Following this technique maximizes flower production and maintains a compact, bushy habit.
Proper Timing and Necessary Tools
The best timing for deadheading is when the bloom has clearly lost its vibrant color and begun to fade but has not yet produced mature seeds. Waiting until the flower is completely brown and stiff risks allowing the plant to commit too much energy to seed development. Check the plants every one to two weeks, especially during peak blooming periods, to quickly remove any flowers that are past their prime.
The appropriate tool depends on the thickness of the stem. For younger plants or smaller blooms, a simple pinching motion with the thumb and forefinger can snap off the spent head. For thicker, more mature stems, a pair of small, sharp snips or gardening shears provides a cleaner, more precise cut. Always ensure that any tool used is clean and sharp to prevent crushing the stem and introducing pathogens.
Harvesting Straw Flowers for Drying
Harvesting straw flowers for drying requires a different approach than maintenance deadheading, as the goal is preservation rather than stimulating new growth. For the best dried quality, the flowers must be cut before they are fully open, ideally when only two to three layers of the papery bracts have unfolded. Harvesting at this earlier stage prevents the central disc, which turns brown upon drying, from being fully exposed.
When harvesting, cut the stem long and deep into the plant to ensure maximum length for versatility in dried arrangements. Immediately strip all the leaves from the stem, as the foliage is prone to mold and does not dry well. The initial drying step involves bundling the stems in small groups and hanging them upside down in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated space for two to three weeks. This position allows the stems to dry straight and the remaining bracts to retain their firm, papery texture and color.