Deflating an air mattress takes just a few minutes once you know what type of valve you’re working with. The basic process is simple: open the valve, push the air out, and roll or fold the mattress for storage. But the specifics vary depending on whether your mattress has a built-in electric pump, a manual valve, or a stubborn mechanism that won’t cooperate.
Identify Your Valve Type
Air mattresses use several different valve designs, and the deflation method depends on which one you have. The most common types are Boston valves, twist valves, pinch valves, double-lock valves, and screw valves.
Boston valves are the most common and typically appear on full-size air mattresses. They have a wide opening with a smaller cap inside a larger cap. The outer cap lets air flow in during inflation, while unscrewing or removing the inner cap opens a wider channel that lets air escape quickly. Twist valves are smaller and more common on camping pads and pool floats. You simply twist them open to release air. Pinch valves require you to squeeze two sides together to open the airway, while screw valves unthread like a bottle cap.
If you’re not sure which type you have, look for markings on the valve itself or check the instruction manual that came with the mattress. Some dual-valve systems have separate openings for inflation and deflation, so make sure you’re opening the correct side.
Mattresses With a Built-In Pump
If your air mattress has an integrated electric pump, deflation is mostly hands-free. Look for a “Deflate” button or switch on the control panel, usually near where you plug it in. It may be labeled with a downward arrow icon or the word “Deflate.” Some models hide a “Quick Deflate” button beneath a protective flap.
When you switch to deflate mode, the pump reverses its airflow, actively sucking air out instead of pushing it in. Let it run until the mattress is visibly flat, then switch it off. You’ll likely still have some residual air trapped inside, which you can push out manually before folding (more on that below). The whole process typically takes two to four minutes depending on the mattress size.
Manual Deflation Without a Pump
For mattresses without a built-in pump, open the valve fully. If it’s a Boston valve, remove both the outer and inner caps to create the widest possible opening. Then let gravity and air pressure do the initial work. The mattress will slowly start to deflate on its own, but you can speed things up significantly with your body weight.
Using your hands and knees, apply pressure across the surface of the mattress and gently press the air toward the open valve. Start from the end opposite the valve and work your way toward it, pushing air in one consistent direction. You can also lie across the mattress or kneel on it to force air out faster. The goal is to avoid trapping pockets of air behind you as you go.
Rolling Out the Last Bit of Air
Once most of the air is out, the mattress will feel mostly flat but still slightly puffy in spots. This remaining air is what makes the difference between a compact fold and a bulky, uncooperative bundle.
Start at the end farthest from the valve. Fold the mattress lengthwise in thirds or quarters, depending on its width. Then roll it tightly toward the valve, squeezing out trapped air as you go. Rolling creates fewer stress points on the material than sharp creases, so it’s generally better for the mattress’s longevity. Keep the valve open the entire time so the air has somewhere to escape. Once you reach the valve end, hold the roll tight, close the valve, and secure it with straps or the storage bag.
When the Valve Won’t Open
Valves sometimes get sticky, especially if the mattress has been compressed in storage for a while. Before you reach for anything sharp, try a few simple fixes.
Press firmly and directly on the valve mechanism. If it’s a twist-and-pull type, try twisting it in both directions before pulling. A bit of wiggling often frees it up. If your mattress has a dual-valve system, check whether you’re working with the right side. One part of the valve can sometimes be unscrewed or pulled out completely, which allows much faster deflation.
If the valve still won’t budge, a vacuum cleaner can help. Many shop vacuums and some household models have a blower function or an exhaust port. Attaching the hose to the valve opening and running it on suction can pull air out forcefully. You may need to improvise a seal between the hose and the valve using a piece of tubing or the cut neck of a plastic bottle. If your vacuum has a heat setting, use the cool setting only, since heat can damage the PVC material. A hair dryer set to cool or air-only mode can also help dislodge a stuck valve with its focused airflow.
Storing It So It Lasts
How you store your air mattress matters more than most people realize. PVC, the material most air mattresses are made from, degrades faster when exposed to heat and humidity. Research on PVC degradation shows that higher temperatures and humidity levels accelerate the breakdown of the material, causing it to yellow, stiffen, and eventually crack. At typical room temperature with moderate humidity, this process is extremely slow, but storing a mattress in a hot attic or damp garage speeds it up considerably.
Keep your deflated mattress in a cool, dry place. A climate-controlled closet is ideal. Avoid areas where temperatures regularly climb above 90°F, like car trunks in summer or unconditioned storage units. Low humidity helps too. If you’re storing the mattress long-term, placing it in its original bag or a breathable storage sack protects it from dust and moisture without trapping condensation inside.
Make sure the mattress is completely dry before packing it away. Any moisture left on the surface can encourage mold or mildew growth, which weakens the material and creates unpleasant odors. If you used the mattress for a guest or on a camping trip, wipe it down with a dry cloth and let it air out for 15 to 30 minutes before rolling it up.