Most concrete anchors are designed to be permanent, which makes getting them out a real challenge. The good news: nearly every type can be removed or at least cut flush with the surface so it’s no longer in the way. The method depends entirely on which type of anchor you’re dealing with, so start by identifying what’s in your concrete before grabbing any tools.
Wedge Anchors
Wedge anchors are the most stubborn type to remove. The expanding clip at the bottom of the anchor locks against the inside of the hole, and once it’s set, it cannot be pulled back through. You have two realistic options: cut it off flush or pound it deeper into the hole.
If the hole was drilled deeper than the anchor length, you can remove the nut and washer, place a block of wood over the threaded end to protect it, and hammer the anchor down until it sits below the concrete surface. This is the cleanest solution, but it only works when there’s room beneath the anchor.
More often, the hole is just deep enough to hold the anchor, which means pounding it down isn’t possible. In that case, use an angle grinder with a thin cutoff disc to slice the threaded rod right at the concrete surface. Follow up with a grinding disc or flap disc to smooth it flush or even slightly below the surface. The remaining body of the anchor stays buried in the concrete permanently, but it won’t interfere with whatever you’re doing next.
Sleeve Anchors
Sleeve anchors are slightly more forgiving. Start by removing the nut and washer from the top. If the hole is deep enough, you can hammer the remaining bolt down into the concrete. The expanding sleeve at the bottom sometimes loosens enough during this process that the whole assembly drops below the surface.
When the anchor won’t budge downward, cut the protruding threaded rod with a hacksaw or angle grinder, then grind the stub flush. A cutoff disc gets you close, and a pass with a grinding disc finishes it cleanly.
Concrete Screws
Concrete screws (often sold under the Tapcon brand name) can sometimes be backed out with a screwdriver or drill set to reverse. If the head is stripped or the screw won’t turn, lock a good pair of vise grips onto the head and twist counterclockwise. Steady pressure works better than jerky movements here.
The tricky situation is when the screw snaps off below the surface. At that point, you need to expose enough of the broken shaft to grab it. Chip away a small area of concrete around the screw using a rotary tool or a cold chisel until you can clamp vise grips onto the stub. It’s tedious work, but it’s often the only way.
One thing worth knowing: once a concrete screw has been removed, the hole it leaves behind is compromised. The threads have chewed up the concrete, so reinstalling a new screw in the same hole usually won’t hold. If you need to fasten something in the same spot, use a different anchor type like a sleeve anchor or an expansion plug.
Plastic and Lead Expansion Plugs
Plastic wall plugs are the easiest anchors to remove. Grip the plug with needle-nose pliers as close to the surface as possible and pull it straight out. If it’s seated too tightly to grip, try threading a screw partway into the plug (just enough to get a bite, not all the way) and then pulling on the screw head. The screw gives you leverage that pliers alone can’t.
For a plug that still won’t budge, insert a screwdriver or drill bit into the center hole and rotate counterclockwise. This sometimes loosens the plug’s grip on the concrete enough to extract it. If a plastic plug breaks during removal, use needle-nose pliers to grab the remaining piece, or drill a small hole into the broken fragment and try again with pliers.
Lead shields and metal expansion plugs follow a similar approach. Unscrew the bolt from the center first, then pull the outer shell out with pliers. Lead is soft enough that you can usually collapse it inward with a screwdriver if it’s stuck, which frees it from the hole walls.
Female Anchors and Drop-In Anchors
Female-type anchors, where a bolt threads into a recessed body, are generally the simplest to deal with. Remove the bolt with a screwdriver or wrench, and you’re left with a tube sitting flush with or just below the concrete surface. In many cases, that’s already an acceptable result since nothing protrudes.
If you need the tube out entirely, try tapping it deeper into the hole with a hammer and a narrow punch. Some female anchors can be pulled out with pipe wrenches or vise grips if they haven’t fully expanded. For anchors that are truly locked in place, your best option is to leave the body in the hole and fill over it with patching material.
Cutting Anchors Flush With an Angle Grinder
When an anchor can’t be extracted, cutting it flush is the standard solution. A 4.5-inch angle grinder is the go-to tool. Use a thin cutoff disc (sometimes called a zip disc) to slice through the metal just above the concrete surface. Then switch to a depressed-center grinding disc or flap disc to smooth the remaining nub down to the surface or slightly below it.
If you’re not experienced with angle grinders, grip the tool firmly with both hands. These tools kick hard when the disc catches on metal, and a moment of inattention can send the grinder sideways. Wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and heavy gloves. An offset cutoff wheel makes it easier to get the cut parallel to the floor rather than at an angle.
Drilling Through a Stuck Anchor
Occasionally you’ll need to drill out an anchor that’s broken off inside the hole, either to clear the hole for a new fastener or to remove the obstruction entirely. Standard drill bits won’t cut through hardened steel anchor material. You’ll need either cobalt or carbide-tipped bits.
For most concrete anchors, which fall in the moderate hardness range, M42 cobalt drill bits (containing 8% cobalt) are the best option. They resist heat buildup and stay sharp through hard metal. If you’re dealing with a particularly hardened anchor, solid carbide bits handle steel rated above HRC 45, which covers heat-treated and specialty fasteners. Use slow speed, steady pressure, and cutting oil to keep the bit from overheating.
Protecting Yourself From Concrete Dust
Grinding, drilling, and chipping concrete releases fine silica dust, which is a serious lung hazard with repeated exposure. OSHA classifies tasks like grinding and drilling concrete as sources of respirable crystalline silica. For short outdoor jobs, a NIOSH-certified N95 filtering facepiece respirator provides adequate protection. If you’re working indoors or the job takes more than a few hours, step up to a respirator rated for at least 10 times the exposure limit.
Wrap-around safety glasses or goggles are essential, not optional. Metal sparks from grinding and concrete chips from chiseling can cause serious eye injuries. Hearing protection is also worth wearing any time you’re running an angle grinder or hammer drill.
Patching the Holes
Once the anchor is removed or cut flush, you’re left with a hole that needs filling if appearance matters. For small anchor holes, a concrete patching compound or anchoring epoxy works well. Fast-setting formulas cure in as little as 15 to 30 minutes, while standard versions take one to four hours. Apply the filler slightly proud of the surface (just above flush), let it cure fully, then sand it smooth.
For larger holes or spots where you chipped away surrounding concrete during removal, hydraulic cement or a vinyl-patching compound provides a stronger, more durable repair. Press the material firmly into the hole to eliminate air pockets. If the hole is deeper than about half an inch, fill it in layers rather than all at once, letting each layer partially set before adding the next. This prevents the patch from shrinking or cracking as it cures.