The Aeschynanthus radicans ‘Black Pagoda’ is a cultivar of the Lipstick Plant, named for the unique appearance of its emerging flower buds. This tropical epiphyte is known for its striking foliage, featuring deep, mottled green leaves that can appear nearly black, contrasted by lighter veining. Its trailing nature makes it an excellent choice for hanging baskets. The plant produces tubular, orange-colored blooms. The ‘Black Pagoda’ stands out due to its dramatic, patterned leaves. Successful cultivation requires replicating the warm, humid conditions of its native Southeast Asian habitat.
Essential Environmental Conditions
The ‘Black Pagoda’ thrives when placed in a location that receives bright, indirect light throughout the day. Light is the primary factor driving its ability to flower; insufficient light often results in a plant that fails to produce blooms. It is important to shield the foliage from direct afternoon sun exposure, particularly in summer, as intense light can scorch the leaves and cause permanent brown spots. An ideal placement is near an east or west-facing window where the light is filtered or diffused.
Maintaining a stable, warm temperature is important for this tropical species. The plant grows best when temperatures are consistently maintained between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C). Exposure to temperatures below 60°F can stress the plant, leading to stunted growth or leaf drop. Drafts from exterior doors, air conditioning vents, or cold window panes must be avoided, as sudden temperature fluctuations can be detrimental to its health.
As an epiphyte, the ‘Black Pagoda’ is accustomed to high ambient moisture. It benefits from moderate to high humidity levels, which support the health of its foliage. If the air in your home is dry, increase localized humidity by placing the plant on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot itself does not sit directly in the water. Grouping several houseplants together can also create a beneficial microclimate.
Watering and Nutritional Schedule
The ideal watering technique for the ‘Black Pagoda’ is the “soak and dry” method, which prevents the roots from sitting in overly saturated soil and developing rot. Allow the top one to two inches of the potting mix to become dry to the touch before watering thoroughly until water drains from the bottom of the pot. Because the plant is sensitive to overwatering, it is safer to err on the side of dryness between waterings, especially during the winter months when growth naturally slows down.
The plant’s epiphytic nature dictates a need for an airy, well-draining potting mix that quickly sheds excess moisture. A suitable blend can be created by combining standard houseplant soil with coarse amendments like orchid bark, perlite, or pumice to improve aeration. Since the ‘Black Pagoda’ prefers to be slightly root-bound, repotting is typically only necessary every two to three years, or when roots begin to circle the pot excessively or emerge from the drainage holes. When repotting, select a container only one size larger than the current one to prevent the soil from holding too much moisture.
During its active growing period (spring and summer), the plant benefits from a regular feeding schedule to support flowering. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 ratio, diluted to half or quarter strength to avoid burning the roots. Apply this diluted solution approximately once a month during the growing season. Cease all fertilization completely during the fall and winter, as the plant enters a period of dormancy.
Propagation and Maintenance Pruning
The simplest and most effective method for creating new ‘Black Pagoda’ plants is through stem cuttings. To propagate, select a healthy stem and make a clean cut just below a leaf node, ensuring the cutting is about four to six inches long. Remove the leaves from the lower portion of the stem so that at least one bare node is exposed.
These cuttings can be successfully rooted in either water or a moist, sterile medium like perlite or a light potting mix. Rooting hormone can be applied to the cut end to stimulate faster development. Placing the cuttings in a location with high humidity, such as under a clear plastic bag, can further increase the success rate. Roots typically begin to form within several weeks, and the new plantlets can be potted into soil once the roots are a couple of inches long.
Pruning serves a dual purpose: it helps manage the length of the trailing vines and encourages the plant to become denser and bushier. Trimming should be performed after the plant has finished its flowering cycle, as the blooms emerge from new growth. Cut the stems back to a length that maintains the desired shape, making the cut just above a set of leaves or a leaf node, which is where new growth will initiate.
Regularly inspecting the foliage is effective for early detection of common houseplant pests. If small infestations of spider mites or mealybugs are noticed, they can often be treated by wiping the affected areas with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or applying a gentle insecticidal soap. Maintaining good airflow and avoiding overly crowded conditions will help reduce the risk of pests.