The Cannova Bronze Scarlet is a hybrid Canna lily known for its tropical appearance. This cultivar features a bold contrast between its deep, coppery-bronze foliage and flag-like scarlet-red blooms. Classified as a tender perennial, it is typically grown as an annual in cooler climates, suitable for both garden beds and patio containers.
Site Selection and Initial Planting
To achieve the most vibrant foliage color and abundant flowering, plant the canna in a location that receives full sun exposure throughout the day. High light intensity deepens the bronze pigmentation in the leaves. The ideal soil should be organically rich, highly fertile, and possess excellent drainage to prevent root issues.
When preparing the planting site, amending the native soil with compost or well-rotted manure enhances both fertility and structure, supporting the plant’s rapid growth rate. Although the canna prefers consistently moist conditions, it cannot tolerate standing water, making well-drained soil necessary. Planting must be timed carefully, waiting until all possibility of frost has passed and the soil temperature has reached at least 60°F (16°C).
If planting rhizomes, place them horizontally or with the “eyes” (growth buds) pointing upward, buried approximately 2 to 3 inches deep. Space individual plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. This provides adequate room for the mature clump to develop (reaching heights of 30 to 48 inches) and ensures good air circulation, which helps prevent disease issues.
Daily and Weekly Care During the Growing Season
Cannas require consistent care throughout the active growing season due to their high needs for water and nutrients. Keep the soil evenly moist, especially during high heat or when growing in containers, which dry out quickly. Use regular, deep watering rather than light sprinkling to encourage a robust root system.
To support rapid growth and continuous flowering from summer until the first frost, maintain a regular fertilization schedule. Apply a balanced, high-nitrogen fertilizer every two to four weeks. This fuels the production of large, bronze leaves and multiple flower spikes.
Routine grooming keeps the plant tidy and encourages continuous flowering. Deadheading involves removing spent flower stalks down to the next healthy leaf or bud. Also, cut back damaged or yellowing leaves to the base of the plant to improve appearance and overall health.
Protecting Against Common Canna Issues
Cannova Bronze Scarlet is generally robust but can attract specific pests. The canna leaf roller is a caterpillar that feeds inside a protected tunnel created by fusing the edges of a new leaf with silk. Manually crushing or removing these rolled leaves is an effective non-chemical control method.
Slugs and snails are also attracted to the large, tender foliage, especially on young plants, leaving ragged holes. Manage these mollusks by applying iron phosphate pellets or setting up beer traps.
Canna rust, caused by the fungus Puccinia thaliae, manifests as small, yellow or orange pustules, typically on the underside of the leaves. Maintaining good air circulation through proper plant spacing helps prevent fungal issues by allowing foliage to dry quickly. If rust appears, immediately remove and destroy infected leaves to limit the spread of spores.
Preparing the Plant for Winter Dormancy
In regions where winter temperatures consistently drop below freezing, the Cannova Bronze Scarlet rhizomes must be lifted and stored, as they are only reliably hardy down to approximately 10°F (-12°C). Timing the preparation is crucial: wait until after the first light frost, which signals the end of the growing season by blackening the foliage. This allows maximum energy transfer back into the underground rhizomes.
Once the foliage is frosted, cut the stalks back to 2 to 6 inches above the soil line. Carefully dig up the entire clump using a garden fork to minimize damage. Gently shake off excess soil, and allow the clumps to cure in a dry, well-ventilated area at 70°F to 80°F for a few days to dry the surface.
Store the cured rhizomes in a cool, dark location, such as a basement or root cellar, where the temperature remains consistently between 40°F and 50°F. Place them in a cardboard box cushioned with a dry medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. Periodically check the stored rhizomes throughout the winter for signs of decay or desiccation to ensure viability for replanting when the spring soil warms up again.