The plant commonly known as God’s Gift is botanically identified as Cestrum nocturnum, a fast-growing, woody evergreen shrub prized for its intensely powerful fragrance. Native to the subtropical regions of the West Indies, Mexico, and Central America, this plant is not a true jasmine but belongs to the Solanaceae family, which also includes tomatoes and peppers. Its exotic appeal comes from the tiny, greenish-white tubular flowers that open exclusively after dusk, releasing a sweet, musky perfume that can travel a significant distance and has earned it the common name Night-blooming Jasmine. Cultivation is primarily driven by the desire to experience this nightly release of scent, making placement and consistent care essential for successful growth.
Environmental Needs and Initial Planting
Successful cultivation begins with selecting a location that provides ample sunlight, as the plant thrives when receiving at least four to six hours of direct sun daily. While it can tolerate partial shade, insufficient light will significantly reduce the volume and frequency of blooms. The plant prefers warm, humid conditions and is best suited for USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, requiring protection if temperatures consistently drop below 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
The ideal growing medium is a rich, fertile, and well-draining soil, such as a loamy mix amended with organic matter. This ensures both moisture retention and proper aeration. An optimal soil pH should fall within a slightly acidic to neutral range, specifically between 6.5 and 7.5.
When transplanting, the hole should be three times as wide as the root ball but only as deep, ensuring the root flare is level with the surrounding soil. After placing the plant, gently rake any tightly packed roots apart to encourage outward growth before backfilling. Proper spacing is important, as this shrub can reach heights of eight to ten feet and spreads four to six feet wide. Allow four to six feet of space between plants for healthy root development and air circulation. Applying a two-inch layer of organic mulch around the base helps conserve soil moisture and moderate temperature, but keep it a few inches away from the main stem to prevent decay.
Ongoing Watering and Feeding Schedules
Cestrum nocturnum is a moisture-loving plant that requires consistent hydration to support its rapid growth and repeated flowering cycles. During the active growing season, the soil should be kept consistently moist but never soggy. Water deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Newly planted shrubs may need saturation several times a week while establishing a robust root system.
Watering frequency should be reduced significantly during the cooler, dormant winter months, especially for established plants, to prevent waterlogged conditions and root rot. Container-grown specimens typically require more frequent watering than those in the ground due to faster soil drying. Providing high humidity is also beneficial, which can be accomplished by grouping container plants or using a pebble tray indoors.
Nutrient delivery maximizes the plant’s flowering potential, which can occur up to four times annually. For young, establishing plants, a monthly application of a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 formulation, supports structural growth. Mature plants benefit from an annual feeding in early spring, often using a high-phosphorus blend during the growing season to encourage abundant bloom production. Consistent feeding ensures the plant remains vigorous and disease-resistant.
Shaping the Plant and Creating New Growth
Pruning is necessary for managing the shrub’s naturally sprawling habit and promoting dense, attractive growth. The best time to perform significant cuts is immediately after a flowering flush has finished. This timing helps maintain the desired shape and encourages the development of new flowering wood, preventing the loss of future blooms.
To encourage a bushier and more compact form, shaping cuts should be made above a leaf node, removing any wayward or spindly branches. Deadheading, or removing spent flowers, can neaten the plant’s appearance and prevent the formation of white berries. Removing these berries is important because the entire plant is considered toxic.
The plant is readily reproduced through vegetative propagation using stem cuttings. Softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings, typically two to five inches long, can be taken in spring or early summer. After dipping the cut end in a rooting hormone, place the cuttings into a moist, well-draining potting mix or a glass of water. Keeping the cuttings in a warm, humid environment facilitates root emergence, allowing for transplanting once new growth is established.
Troubleshooting Common Pests and Problems
While generally robust, the plant can occasionally suffer from common garden pests that target its new growth and foliage.
Pests and Treatment
Aphids and spider mites are frequent invaders, often congregating on the undersides of leaves and the tips of new shoots, where they suck the plant’s sap. Whiteflies and scale insects are also known to cause issues, with scale insects being particularly challenging due to their protective, waxy covering. These pests often excrete honeydew, a sugary substance that leads to the growth of black sooty mold on the leaves. A simple solution for minor infestations is to treat the plant with insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil, ensuring complete coverage of the affected areas.
Cultural Issues and Flowering
Diseases are mostly linked to poor cultural practices, as overwatering and high humidity can lead to fungal problems like root rot and leaf spot. A lack of flowering is often a result of insufficient sunlight, as the plant needs a minimum of six hours a day to produce abundant blooms. If light is adequate, the issue may be an improper fertilizer balance. Too much nitrogen promotes lush green foliage at the expense of flower production, so switching to a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content will help redirect the plant’s energy toward creating blooms.