The spider plant, or Chlorophytum comosum, is a popular and resilient houseplant. Native to the tropical and southern regions of Africa, it is characterized by long, arching, often variegated leaves that resemble ribbons. Its adaptability and low-maintenance nature make it an excellent choice for beginner plant enthusiasts. The spider plant is also known for its ability to help purify indoor air. Its cascading form makes it a favorite for hanging baskets, allowing its unique reproductive structures to hang freely.
Setting Up the Ideal Environment
A healthy spider plant requires the right location and planting medium. These plants thrive best in bright, indirect light, which encourages vibrant leaf color and robust growth. Direct, intense sunlight, particularly the harsh afternoon sun, should be avoided as it can easily scorch the foliage and cause brown tips.
The temperature range suitable for spider plants is generally between 60° and 80°F (15° to 27°C). A well-draining soil mix is necessary for preventing root issues, as the plant stores water in its thick, fleshy roots. Use a standard commercial potting mix amended with materials like perlite or coarse sand to ensure adequate drainage. Any container used must have drainage holes at the bottom.
Maintaining Routine Care
Water the plant thoroughly only when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry to the touch. The plant is sensitive to chemicals like fluoride and chlorine often found in tap water. Using filtered, distilled, or rainwater is a preventative measure against leaf tip burn.
Spider plants are not heavy feeders, but they benefit from regular, light fertilization during their active growth period. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength about once a month throughout the spring and summer seasons. Cease all fertilization during the fall and winter months when the plant’s growth slows.
Spider plants prefer moderate humidity, ideally between 40% and 60%. Placing the plant on a pebble tray filled with water or grouping it with other plants can help create a slightly more humid microclimate. This increased moisture level can also help prevent the issue of dry leaf tips.
Solving Common Issues
Brown leaf tips, known as tip burn, are often caused by a buildup of salts and minerals from tap water, over-fertilization, or consistently low humidity. To correct this, switch to filtered water and reduce the frequency of feeding. If mineral buildup is suspected, the soil can be flushed by slowly pouring a large volume of water through the pot multiple times to wash away excess salts.
Although the brown tips will not turn green again, they can be trimmed off with scissors, following the natural curve of the leaf. Pale or washed-out leaves indicate the plant is receiving too much direct light.
Occasional houseplant pests like spider mites and mealybugs may appear. Spider mites are identified by fine webbing, while mealybugs resemble small, white, cottony masses in leaf crevices. Infestations can be treated non-chemically by wiping the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or applying a gentle horticultural oil, such as neem oil.
Multiplying Your Collection
Spider plants naturally produce miniature, fully formed baby plants, called “spiderettes” or plantlets, on the ends of long, arching stems. These plantlets are the easiest and most popular method for propagation, offering a simple way to expand a collection. A plantlet is ready for removal once it has developed small, noticeable aerial roots or knob-like protrusions at its base.
To propagate in soil, simply snip the spiderette from the mother plant and plant its base into a small pot filled with moist potting mix. Alternatively, the plantlet can be rooted in water by placing its base in a glass of water, ensuring the leaves remain above the surface. Once the water-rooted plantlet develops roots that are two to three inches long, it can be successfully transplanted into soil.
Mature, densely rooted spider plants can also be divided into multiple new plants during the repotting process. Remove the plant from its pot and gently separate the thick, fleshy root mass into sections. Ensure each new division has a portion of the roots and several healthy leaves. This division method is effective for rejuvenating an older, root-bound specimen.