The Weeping Norway Spruce, Picea abies ‘Pendula’, is a distinctive evergreen conifer prized for its dramatic, cascading form. Unlike its massive parent species, this cultivar is a highly ornamental specimen that serves as a unique focal point in the landscape. Its dense foliage of rich green needles trails downward along gracefully arching branches, giving it a sculptural quality. The tree’s overall height is variable and depends entirely on how it is trained, making it a versatile choice for gardens of different sizes.
Selecting the Ideal Location and Specimen
The Weeping Norway Spruce thrives best in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. While it can tolerate some partial shade, especially in hot climates where mid-afternoon shade prevents scorching, full sun promotes the best growth and color.
Soil conditions must prioritize excellent drainage, as the tree will not tolerate standing water, which can lead to root rot. The ideal soil is well-drained and moderately acidic to neutral, generally falling within a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5. Amending heavy clay soil with organic matter can improve structure and drainage.
When selecting a specimen, look for rich, dark green needles with no signs of discoloration or pests. Inspect the branches for fine webbing or stippling, which could indicate spider mites. If an upright form is desired, choose a tree that has a strong, straight central leader to simplify the initial training process. The Weeping Norway Spruce is cold-hardy and thrives across USDA hardiness zones 2 through 7.
Planting Procedures and Initial Establishment
The planting hole should be twice as wide as the tree’s root ball but no deeper than the root ball itself. This wider hole allows the roots to easily spread into the surrounding native soil, encouraging robust establishment.
Before placing the tree, locate the root flare, the point where the trunk widens at the base. The tree must be set so the root flare sits at or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting too deep can suffocate the roots and lead to trunk rot, often requiring soil removal from the top of the root ball to expose the flare.
After positioning the tree, backfill the hole with the original soil and gently tamp it down to eliminate air pockets. Water immediately and deeply to settle the soil around the roots. During the first one to three growing seasons, consistent deep watering is necessary, especially during dry spells, to encourage an extensive root system. Check the soil moisture by feeling the top two inches; if it is dry, water deeply.
Structural Pruning and Height Training
The weeping habit of Picea abies ‘Pendula’ requires specific structural training to achieve an upright form. If left untrained, the tree will grow horizontally, often spreading along the ground like a dense, cascading shrub. To gain vertical height, the tree must have a chosen leader tied securely to a sturdy stake.
Staking must be maintained as the tree grows, with the leader being re-tied or the stake replaced annually until the desired height is reached. Once the leader is no longer supported, it will naturally begin to weep, and the tree will gain no further height. The total height of the established tree is determined by the height of the final staking.
Pruning is generally minimal and should be performed during the tree’s dormant period in late winter or early spring. The primary goal is to remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches to maintain health and promote good air circulation. Side branches that touch the ground should be trimmed back if a dense ground cover mat is not desired. Avoid heavy or indiscriminate cutting, as it disrupts the plant’s natural pendulous form.
Diagnosing Pests and Environmental Stress
The Weeping Norway Spruce is susceptible to common conifer pests, notably the Spruce Spider Mite (Oligonychus ununguis), a cool-season pest active in spring and fall. Mite feeding causes fine, yellowish stippling on the needles, often followed by bronze discoloration and premature needle drop, typically starting on older, inner needles. To check for mites, shake a branch over white paper and look for tiny moving specks.
Treatment for mites involves a forceful stream of water or the application of horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Needle drop is another common concern, which can signal drought stress or a fungal infection like Rhizosphaera needle cast. Fungal diseases often cause older needles to turn lavender or brown and drop prematurely, usually starting on the lower, inner branches.
Environmental stresses such as insufficient watering or poor drainage significantly increase the tree’s vulnerability to disease. Established trees rarely require fertilization unless a soil test identifies a specific nutrient deficiency. Ensuring the tree has well-drained soil, adequate sunlight, and good air circulation is the best preventive care for long-term health.