Cyclamen are cherished for their elegant, upswept flowers and decorative foliage. Propagating these plants from seed is a satisfying process, though it requires patience as it is significantly slower than using corms or transplants. This method allows for the cultivation of large numbers of plants and the preservation of specific varieties. Successfully growing cyclamen from seed depends on carefully managing the steps from harvesting the seed pod to nurturing the emerging seedlings.
Identifying and Collecting Mature Seed Pods
After a cyclamen flower is pollinated, the stem (pedicel) coils, drawing the developing seed pod downward. The pod, which starts as a firm, green sphere, is often tucked beneath the foliage or close to the soil for protection.
Maturity typically occurs in early to mid-summer. An unripened pod feels hard, but as it ripens, the casing softens and becomes pliable. The color changes from green to a yellowish or orange-brown hue, and the top of the capsule may begin to crack open.
Collect the pod just before it fully splits open to prevent the seeds from spilling. Once mature, snip the pod from the parent plant using sharp scissors or remove it by hand at the base of the coiled stem. Collecting the pod at this pre-split stage ensures maximum seed viability.
Processing Seeds for Sowing
The fresh seeds extracted from the mature pod are covered in a sticky, sugary coating called an aril. This aril contains germination inhibitors that must be removed for successful propagation.
To clean the seeds, place them in a small container of water, adding a tiny drop of dish soap as a wetting agent. Soak the seeds in this solution for 24 hours to start rehydration and dissolve the sticky aril. After the initial soak, change the water and gently rub the seeds between layers of paper towel to remove any remaining residue.
Following cleaning, soak the seeds in clean, cool water for an additional 24 hours to ensure they are fully hydrated. Before sowing, briefly dry the seeds on a paper towel so they are easier to handle. Removing the aril significantly increases the percentage and speed of germination.
Sowing and Germination Requirements
Cyclamen seeds are best sown in a sterile, fine-textured, and well-draining planting medium, such as a mix of peat moss and perlite. Use a container with good drainage, and thoroughly moisten the medium before sowing. Space the seeds about a centimeter apart to allow corms room to develop.
Cover the seeds lightly, typically with an eighth to a quarter-inch of soil, vermiculite, or grit. This covering anchors the root system and ensures the corm is not exposed. Cyclamen seeds require complete darkness to germinate; light exposure can inhibit sprouting. Place the tray in a dark location, or cover it with an opaque material.
Temperature control is essential for consistent germination, as cyclamen seeds sprout best in cool conditions. The optimal temperature range is consistently between 55 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit (13–20°C). Higher temperatures, especially above 70°F, can prevent germination. Germination is slow and erratic, typically taking one to three months.
Consistent moisture must be maintained, but the medium should never become waterlogged, which leads to fungal issues. High humidity is also required, achieved by placing a dome or plastic bag over the tray. Ensure good air circulation to prevent mold. Once the first tiny shoots begin to emerge, immediately move the tray to a location with light.
Initial Care for Cyclamen Seedlings
As soon as germination appears, transition the seedlings out of darkness and into a brighter, indirect light environment, such as under fluorescent lights or in a cool window. Maintaining a cooler temperature, ideally around 59°F (15°C) at night, encourages compact growth.
Watering young cyclamen seedlings requires care, as they are susceptible to rot if overwatered. Many growers prefer bottom-watering by placing the tray in a shallow basin until the medium wicks up moisture. This avoids wetting the corms and leaves, which can invite fungal diseases. Allow the soil surface to dry slightly between waterings.
Allow the seedlings to grow in the original tray for several months until they develop a few true leaves. A small corm will have formed at the base of the plant by this time. They are ready to be transplanted into individual pots when these corms are visible and the seedlings have gained size.