Installing coaxial cable is a straightforward DIY project that involves running cable from an entry point to your TV, modem, or other device, then attaching connectors at each end. The job requires a few specialized but inexpensive tools, and most homeowners can complete a single run in under an hour. Getting the details right, particularly the cable type, connector attachment, and grounding, makes the difference between a clean signal and frustrating interference.
Choosing the Right Cable
For nearly every residential installation, RG6 is the cable you want. It’s built for high-bandwidth, high-frequency signals above 50 MHz and handles internet, cable TV, and satellite TV without issue. RG6 uses dual-layer shielding (one layer of foil plus one layer of braided wire), which protects against electromagnetic interference from nearby wiring and appliances.
You may come across RG59, which is thinner and cheaper. RG59 was the standard for analog video and is still used in some CCTV setups, but it’s designed for frequencies below 50 MHz and has only braided shielding. For any modern broadband or television application, skip RG59 and stick with RG6.
If your run goes outdoors or through a damp crawlspace, look for RG6 labeled as “direct burial” or “outdoor rated.” These have an additional waterproof jacket that prevents moisture from degrading the signal over time.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
- Coaxial cable stripper: A rotary stripper designed for RG6. You place the cable in the jaw and spin the tool around the cable to make clean, precise cuts at the right depths. Adjustable two- or three-blade models work well.
- Compression tool: Used to permanently attach F-type connectors (the threaded connectors on the back of your TV or modem). Compression connectors offer superior pull strength and a better weather seal compared to older crimp or twist-on styles.
- F-type compression connectors: Buy connectors rated specifically for RG6. They’re not interchangeable with RG59 connectors.
- Cable clips or staples: For securing the cable along walls, baseboards, or joists. Use clips designed for coax so you don’t crush the cable.
- Drill with appropriate bits: If you need to pass cable through walls, floors, or the exterior of your home.
- Grounding block and ground wire: Required if the cable enters from outside.
Twist-on connectors exist and require no tools, but they work loose over time and let in moisture. Compression connectors cost only slightly more and last far longer. They’re worth the small investment in a compression tool.
Planning Your Cable Run
Before you cut any cable, walk the route from your signal source (wall plate, splitter, or exterior entry point) to your device. Measure the distance and add a few extra feet for slack at each end. Coax is inexpensive, and a cable that’s slightly too long is far better than one that’s too tight.
RG6 has a minimum bend radius of about 10 times its outer diameter, which works out to roughly 2.5 to 3 inches. Sharp bends kink the cable internally, causing signal reflections and loss even if the outer jacket looks fine. When turning corners, make gentle, sweeping curves rather than folding the cable at a right angle. If you’re running cable through a wall and need a 90-degree turn, use a low-voltage mounting bracket to give yourself room to loop the cable smoothly.
Keep coaxial cable at least 6 inches away from electrical wiring when running parallel. Crossing electrical wires perpendicularly is fine, since the exposure is minimal.
Stripping and Attaching Connectors
This is the most important step. A poorly terminated connector is the number one cause of signal problems in home coax installations.
Set your rotary cable stripper to expose 1/4 inch of the center copper conductor and 1/4 inch of the braided shielding beneath the outer jacket. Make one clean spin around the cable. You’ll see three layers: the outer jacket, the braided shield (and foil layer beneath it), and the white plastic insulation (called the dielectric) surrounding the center conductor.
Fold the braided shielding back over the outer jacket. On RG6 cable, leave the foil attached to the white dielectric. Do not remove it. Now slide the F-type compression connector over the prepared end. Push it on until the white dielectric sits flush with the bottom of the connector’s nut. You should see the center conductor poking out slightly past the front of the connector.
Place the connector into your compression tool and squeeze firmly until the tool fully cycles. The connector will lock permanently onto the cable. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s secure. Repeat at the other end of the cable.
Grounding the Cable Entry Point
If your coaxial cable enters the building from outside, the National Electrical Code requires the outer conductive shield to be grounded. This protects your equipment from voltage surges caused by lightning or power line contact.
Install a grounding block as close as possible to where the cable enters the building. The coax from outside connects to one side, and the coax continuing inside connects to the other. A copper ground wire then runs from the block to your home’s electrical grounding system, typically the same grounding electrode (ground rod or water pipe clamp) your electrical panel uses. When the outer shield is properly grounded, no additional surge protector is needed on the coax line.
Splitting the Signal to Multiple Rooms
If you need coax in more than one room, you’ll use a passive splitter. Every split reduces signal strength. A standard two-way splitter loses about 3.5 dB per port, and adding more ports increases the loss further. A four-way splitter, for example, can cut your signal by 7 dB or more on each output.
To minimize problems, use the fewest ports you actually need. If you’re splitting to two rooms, buy a two-way splitter, not a four-way with unused ports. Unused ports on a splitter should be capped with 75-ohm terminators to prevent signal reflections. Place the splitter as close to the signal source as possible so the split runs are kept short.
Cable length also matters. RG6 loses about 1.4 dB per 100 feet at lower frequencies (around 50 MHz) and up to 6.1 dB per 100 feet at 1 GHz, the range used by some internet and satellite signals. For most homes, runs under 100 feet cause no noticeable issues. If you’re running 150 feet or more and splitting the signal, you may notice degraded picture quality or slower internet speeds, and an amplifier installed before the splitter can compensate.
Weatherproofing Outdoor Connections
Moisture at connectors is one of the most common causes of signal degradation in coaxial installations. Water creeping into a connection corrodes the metal, changes the cable’s electrical properties, and increases signal loss over time.
Start by using compression connectors for any outdoor termination. Their tight seal is significantly more moisture-resistant than crimp or twist-on types. After making the connection, wrap it with weatherproofing tape or a silicone-based sealing compound designed for RF use. Wrap tightly, overlapping each layer by half, and extend the wrap an inch past each side of the connector.
Where cable runs vertically on the exterior of your house, create a drip loop: a small U-shaped dip in the cable just before it enters the building. This forces rainwater to drip off the lowest point of the loop rather than following the cable through the wall. It’s a simple detail that prevents years of slow water damage.
Testing Your Installation
Once everything is connected, check your signal by turning on the device at the far end of the run. For cable TV or antenna, scan for channels and note whether you’re picking up the expected number. For internet, run a speed test and compare it to your plan’s rated speed. If you’re getting significantly fewer channels or lower speeds than expected, the most likely culprits are a loose connector, a cable that was bent too sharply, or too many splitter ports in the chain.
A simple continuity tester or coax cable tester (available for under $20) can confirm that the center conductor and shield are making proper contact at each connector without any short between them. This is especially useful if you’ve made several runs and want to verify each one before closing up wall plates.