How to Lace Sneakers: Methods for Fit, Style & Comfort

Most sneakers come laced in a basic criss-cross pattern, and for everyday wear, that works fine. But swapping to a different lacing method takes about two minutes and can fix problems you didn’t realize your laces were causing: pressure on a high arch, a heel that slips, toes that jam on downhills, or a shoe that just feels too tight. Here’s how to lace your sneakers for comfort, fit, and style.

The Standard Criss-Cross

This is the default on nearly every sneaker out of the box. Thread the lace straight across the bottom two eyelets from underneath, then alternate crossing each end over to the opposite side, feeding up through the next eyelet. Repeat until you reach the top. It provides even tension across the whole foot and works well for most people during normal daily activity.

If your shoes feel fine and you’re not dealing with foot pain, blisters, or slippage, there’s no reason to change. But if something feels off, one of the methods below will probably help.

Straight Bar Lacing for a Looser Fit

If your sneakers feel tight across the top of your foot, especially after standing or walking for a while, straight bar lacing (sometimes called “lydiard” or “European straight” lacing) gives you more room. Instead of criss-crossing, the laces run in horizontal bars across the outside of the shoe, with vertical runs hidden on the inside. This distributes pressure more evenly and reduces the pinching that criss-cross lacing creates over the midfoot.

To set it up: thread the lace straight across the outside through the bottom eyelets so both ends go in from the top. Take the left end straight up on the inside, skip one eyelet, and bring it out two eyelets higher, then straight across on the outside. The right end does the same thing but offset by one eyelet. Keep alternating until both ends reach the top. The result is a clean, uniform look with no visible diagonal lines.

This method works particularly well if your feet tend to swell during the day, since the horizontal bars slide more freely than crossed laces when you adjust tension.

Lacing for Wide Feet

Wide feet need room in specific zones, and you can create that room by skipping eyelets. The principle is simple: wherever you feel pressure, leave a gap in the lacing pattern.

If your toes feel cramped, leave the first one or two eyelets above the bottom completely unlaced. This expands the toe box without loosening the rest of the shoe. If the pressure is across the middle of your foot (the instep), skip the middle eyelets instead. You lace normally from the bottom, then instead of crossing to the next eyelet, jump to the same side one eyelet up, creating a vertical segment that doesn’t pull the shoe tight in that area. Resume the criss-cross above the gap.

There’s no single “correct” pattern here. The trick is to experiment with which eyelets you skip until the pressure point disappears.

Lacing for High Arches

A high arch pushes up against the tongue of the shoe, and criss-cross lacing presses right back down on it. That constant pressure can cause pain on the top of the foot, especially during longer walks or runs.

The fix is to replace the criss-cross with parallel lacing through the middle section. Instead of crossing the laces diagonally, run each end straight up on the same side from one eyelet to the next, then straight across to the opposite side. This creates horizontal bars (like straight bar lacing) that sit flat without pulling downward into the arch. You can use this parallel pattern across all eyelets or just through the section over your arch, switching back to criss-cross at the top where you need more grip.

The Heel Lock for Slipping Heels

If your heel lifts out of the shoe with each step, you’re getting extra friction that leads to blisters and wasted energy. The heel lock (also called a “lace lock” or “runner’s loop”) is the single most useful lacing trick for runners and anyone who walks long distances.

Lace your shoe in the normal criss-cross pattern up to the second-to-last eyelet. Then, instead of crossing over, thread each lace straight up into the top eyelet on the same side, pulling it out on the inside of the shoe. This creates a small loop between the last two eyelets on each side. Now cross your laces and feed each one through the loop on the opposite side. Pull both ends tight and tie as usual.

Those loops act as a cleat, locking the laces so they can’t loosen. Your heel gets pulled snugly into the back of the shoe without you having to overtighten the rest of the lacing. ASICS recommends this technique specifically to reduce the friction that causes blisters and excess wear on the heel lining.

Diagonal Lacing for Toe Pain

Black toenails and bruised toes happen when your foot slides forward in the shoe, usually on downhill terrain or during sudden stops. A diagonal lacing pattern lifts the toe cap of the shoe, giving your toes more clearance.

Start by running one lace from the bottom eyelet on the big-toe side all the way to the top eyelet on the opposite side, creating one long diagonal line. Take the other lace end and thread it down into the first eyelet, then across and up in a straight-bar pattern alongside the diagonal. Continue until you reach the top and tie normally. The diagonal tension pulls the front of the shoe upward, keeping it off your toenails.

Ladder Lacing for Style and Stability

Ladder lacing creates a striking visual pattern of horizontal bars with vertical side rails, almost like a rope ladder running up the shoe. It looks sharp on high-top sneakers and also provides a very secure, stable fit because the laces interlock at each level.

Thread the lace straight across through the bottom eyelets from underneath. Run both ends straight up the sides on the outside and feed them into the next higher eyelets. At each level, cross the ends horizontally, but instead of going through the eyelets, tuck each end under the vertical segment on the opposite side before continuing straight up to the next eyelet. Repeat to the top.

For an extra-secure finish, feed the ends under the opposite vertical segments one more time at the top before tying. This creates what’s called a “lace lock” at the top that prevents the knot from loosening, useful if you’re wearing the shoes for sports or long days on your feet.

Choosing the Right Lace Length

If you’re relacing with a new method or replacing worn-out laces, you need the right length. Too short and you can’t tie a proper knot; too long and you’re tucking excess lace into the shoe or tripping over loops. Lace length depends on how many eyelet pairs your sneaker has.

For standard-width sneakers, here are the recommended lengths:

  • 4 pairs of eyelets: 90 cm / 35 inches
  • 5 pairs: 100 cm / 39 inches
  • 6 pairs: 110 cm / 43 inches
  • 7 pairs: 120 cm / 47 inches
  • 8 pairs: 130 cm / 51 inches

Wider shoes need longer laces. If your sneakers are noticeably wide, add about 10 to 15 centimeters (4 to 6 inches) to those numbers. Narrower shoes need slightly less. Straight bar lacing and ladder lacing both use a bit more length than criss-cross, so if you’re switching methods, round up to the next available size.

Understanding Your Sneaker’s Eyelets

Not all eyelets work the same way, and the type on your shoe affects how smoothly laces slide and how well they hold tension. Most sneakers use punched eyelets: simple holes through the upper material, usually reinforced with a small metal ring to prevent fraying. These are durable and hold laces securely, but they create more friction when you’re trying to adjust tightness.

Some athletic sneakers use webbing eyelets, which are loops of fabric or synthetic material stitched along the sides. These are lighter, put less pressure on the top of the foot, and allow laces to glide more freely. You’ll also see them on shoes marketed as flexible or minimalist. If your sneakers have webbing eyelets, be aware that laces loosen more easily during activity, so a heel lock or double knot is a good habit.

Whatever eyelet type you have, check that the plastic tips on your laces (called aglets) are intact. Frayed lace ends make threading through eyelets frustrating and slow. If your aglets are cracked or missing, you can wrap the ends tightly with a small piece of clear tape as a quick fix, or just replace the laces.