To safely lift a dog after ACL surgery, you need to support the hindquarters without putting any pressure on or near the surgical knee. The basic principle: one hand or arm goes under the chest, the other supports the belly just in front of the hind legs. This keeps the dog’s weight off the repaired limb while you help them move through the trickiest parts of early recovery.
Where to Place Your Hands
The goal is to create two stable contact points that bypass the injured leg entirely. Place one hand (or slide one arm) under your dog’s chest, just behind the front legs. Place your other hand or arm under the abdomen, in front of the hind legs. This “scooping” position distributes your dog’s weight between front and back without any force going through the knee.
For small dogs under about 25 pounds, this two-handed scoop lets you lift them cleanly off the ground. Keep your dog’s body level as you lift so the surgical leg doesn’t dangle or swing. Hold them close to your body for stability, and set them down gently, letting the front feet touch first.
For medium and large dogs, a full lift is harder on both of you. Instead of picking the dog up entirely, focus on supporting the hind end so they can walk with their front legs bearing most of the weight. A belly sling is the most practical tool for this. Veterinary recovery programs commonly provide a sling (sometimes made from an elastic therapy band) that loops under the belly just in front of the hind legs. You hold the ends like handles, taking as much weight off the back legs as your dog needs. This is especially important on slippery surfaces like tile or hardwood, where a recovering dog can easily lose footing.
Making a Sling at Home
If you don’t have a commercial sling, a folded bath towel works well as a temporary option. Fold it lengthwise so it’s about 6 to 8 inches wide, pass it under your dog’s belly in front of the hind legs, and hold both ends up like reins. For larger dogs, a rolled beach towel or a reusable shopping bag with the bottom cut out can give you better grip. Commercial slings with padded handles are worth the investment if your dog weighs more than 40 or 50 pounds, because you’ll be using it multiple times a day for weeks.
Situations That Require Lifting Help
The moments that seem routine are actually the riskiest during recovery. Getting in and out of a car, navigating stairs, stepping onto a porch, and walking on slick floors all demand more from the hind legs than flat ground does. For the first two to four weeks after surgery, stairs should be limited to a short flight to get in and out of the house. Your dog should be on a short leash and slowly guided up or down just two or three steps at a time, with the belly sling providing support from behind.
Getting into a car is one of the most common injury risks. Dogs instinctively want to jump, and one bad leap can damage the surgical repair. For small dogs, lift them in and out using the chest-and-belly hold. For large dogs, use a portable ramp if possible. If no ramp is available, use the sling to support their hindquarters while they step up with their front legs, and physically block them from jumping by keeping a hand on their chest or using a short leash.
Furniture is another hazard. Jumping onto a couch or bed puts enormous force through the hind legs on landing. If your dog normally sleeps on furniture, set up a ground-level bed in a confined area instead. Many veterinarians recommend confining your dog to a crate or small room to minimize the chance of an uncontrolled jump or sudden sprint.
How Recovery Changes Your Lifting Routine
The amount of help your dog needs shifts significantly over the first several weeks. During the first two weeks, most dogs won’t bear weight on the surgical leg at all, and you’ll be using the sling or lifting them for nearly every trip outside. This is the phase where the sling gets the most use: bathroom breaks, short walks to the yard, and any movement on hard floors.
Around weeks three and four, the incision is typically healed and sutures come out. Many dogs begin “toe-tapping,” setting the paw of the affected leg down lightly for balance without putting full weight on it. At this stage, you can start reducing sling support gradually, but keep it available. Toe-tapping is not the same as full weight-bearing. Your dog may still stumble or slip, especially when tired.
Full weight-bearing develops over the following weeks and months, with the timeline depending on the specific procedure (TPLO, lateral suture, or TTA) and your dog’s size. Orthopedic surgeries require a much longer exercise restriction period than soft tissue procedures, because the bone needs time to heal before handling increased forces. Even when your dog looks comfortable walking, the internal repair is still strengthening. Most recovery programs call for leash walks only, no rough play, and no off-leash activity for 8 to 12 weeks or longer.
Protecting Your Own Back
Repeatedly lifting or supporting a 60, 80, or 100-pound dog takes a real toll on your body. Bend at the knees, not the waist, every time you help your dog up. Keep your dog close to your torso rather than reaching out at arm’s length. If you’re using a towel sling, the constant bending to hold it can strain your lower back within days. A sling with longer handles or a purpose-built harness with a top handle lets you support your dog from a more upright position.
If your dog is too heavy for you to safely assist alone, ask someone to help during the most physically demanding moments, like car trips or navigating porch steps. Ramps for the car and non-slip rugs on hard floors can eliminate many of the situations where lifting is necessary in the first place. A few yoga mats or rubber-backed runners placed along your dog’s usual walking paths make a big difference in traction and reduce how often you need to intervene.
Signs You’re Putting Too Much Pressure on the Knee
Even with good technique, watch for signals that your lifting or support method is bothering your dog. Yelping, flinching, or trying to pull away when you position the sling could mean you’re placing it too close to the surgical site. The sling should sit well forward of the knee, across the lower belly. If your dog is consistently reluctant to move even with support, or if swelling around the knee increases after assisted walks, the leg may be bearing more load than it should at that stage of healing.
Some dogs resist the sling simply because it feels unfamiliar. A few practice sessions in the house, with treats and calm encouragement, usually help them accept it within a day or two. Getting your dog comfortable with the sling early, ideally before surgery if you have time to prepare, makes the first difficult days of recovery much smoother.