How to Load a Deadlift Bar: Methods That Actually Work

Loading a deadlift bar is awkward because the barbell sits on the floor, leaving almost no clearance between the sleeve and the ground. Unlike a squat or bench press where the bar rests in a rack at a convenient height, you’re working at floor level with a bar that wants to roll away from you. The fix comes down to elevating one end of the bar just enough to slide plates on and off freely.

Why the Bar Is Hard to Load

A standard Olympic plate is 450 mm (about 17.7 inches) in diameter. When a 45-pound plate sits on the floor, the barbell sleeve hovers only a few inches off the ground. That’s not enough room to slide another full-size plate onto the sleeve without it catching on the floor. The first plate goes on easy enough since the empty sleeve is light and you can tip it. Every plate after that is the problem.

The Small Plate Method

This is the most popular no-equipment solution. Place a 2.5-pound or 5-pound plate flat on the floor, then roll your first 45-pound plate up onto it. That small plate acts as a ramp and a platform, lifting the barbell sleeve just high enough that additional plates can slide on without dragging on the ground. Once you’re done loading, pull the small plate out from under the bar before you lift.

The trick is keeping everything stable. The small plate only sits under the edge of the first 45, so it doesn’t take much for the bar to roll off. Plates with flat edges (like machined iron plates) balance better on this setup than fully rounded plates. If your plates are round on the edges and keep rolling off the small plate, a folded towel or a leather lifting belt placed under the first plate works as an alternative. You lose a little height compared to the small plate method, but you gain friction that keeps the bar from rolling.

Deadlift Wedges and Jacks

If you deadlift regularly, a dedicated loading tool saves time and frustration. There are two main options: wedges and floor jacks.

A deadlift wedge is a small, angled block (usually rubber or plastic) that you slide under a loaded plate. You roll the plate up onto the wedge, which lifts the bar a couple of inches. Wedges cost around $10, take up almost no space, and do exactly one job well. They’re the most practical option for home gyms.

A deadlift floor jack is a lever-style device that sits on the floor next to the bar. You step on one end or push a handle, and it lifts the barbell sleeve several inches, giving you full clearance to add or remove plates. Jacks are faster and more stable than wedges, especially when you’re loading four or five plates per side. They’re common in powerlifting gyms and competition settings. For home use, they’re overkill unless you’re regularly pulling over 400 pounds and changing weights frequently.

The One-Handed Lift Method

Without any tools or small plates nearby, you’re left with the brute force approach: grip the bar with one hand, lift the end off the ground, and slide a plate onto the sleeve with your other hand. This works fine for the first plate or two when the bar is light. It gets progressively worse as the bar gets heavier, because you’re essentially doing a one-arm deadlift while trying to guide a 45-pound plate with your free hand. It’s clumsy, and it’s a good way to pinch your fingers between the plate and the collar. Use it as a last resort.

What Order to Load the Plates

Heaviest plates go on first, closest to the center of the bar. Smaller plates stack on after, in descending order. This keeps the center of gravity near the middle of the barbell and makes the weight easier to read at a glance. In competition, the International Powerlifting Federation requires this sequence so referees and spectators can quickly verify the total weight. Even in a home gym, loading heaviest-to-lightest keeps the bar balanced and makes unloading simpler since you’re peeling off the lightest plates first.

Load both sides evenly as you go. Don’t stack all your plates on one side before moving to the other. A barbell loaded with three plates on one end and nothing on the other will tip over, and 135-plus pounds crashing to one side can damage your floor and anything nearby.

Securing the Plates

Barbell collars or clamps keep plates from shifting during your lift. On a deadlift, plates sliding outward mid-rep can throw off your balance and change the effective lever arm. Spring clips are the most common option in commercial gyms. They’re quick to put on and take off, but their hold is moderate. Clamp-style collars grip tighter and are a better choice if you’re lifting heavy or tend to drop the bar at the top of the lift. Either way, get in the habit of using them on every working set.

Handling the Plates Themselves

A 45-pound plate is an awkward object to carry and maneuver at floor level. When picking plates up off the ground or a storage rack, treat it like a mini deadlift: bend at the hips and knees, keep your back straight, and grip the plate firmly before standing up. This sounds obvious, but plenty of people who are careful about their deadlift form will round their back to grab a plate off the floor ten times per session without thinking about it. The cumulative effect of sloppy plate handling adds up, especially on heavy training days when you’re loading and unloading between multiple sets.

If your plates have grip holes (cutouts in the face of the plate), use them. They make carrying and positioning plates significantly easier than trying to palm the edges of a smooth iron disc.

A Quick Loading Sequence

  • Set your platform. Place a 2.5-pound plate, wedge, or folded towel on the floor about a foot from the end of the bar.
  • Roll the first plate on. Slide your first 45-pound plate onto the empty sleeve and roll it forward onto the platform. The bar should now be elevated slightly.
  • Add remaining plates. With the clearance gained, slide additional plates onto the sleeve in descending weight order.
  • Repeat on the other side. Walk to the opposite end and load the same weight, using the same method.
  • Remove the platform. Pull the small plate, wedge, or towel out from under each side.
  • Attach collars. Slide a collar or clamp onto each sleeve and lock it down against the outermost plate.

The whole process takes about 30 seconds once you’ve done it a few times. For between-set weight changes, a wedge or jack speeds things up considerably since you can add or remove plates without unstacking everything.