Loading a deadlift bar starts with getting the first plate on each side while the bar sits on the floor, then using that plate’s height to slide on the rest. It sounds simple, but there are a few tricks that make the process faster, protect your equipment, and save your back from unnecessary strain before you even start your working sets.
Getting the First Plate On
The trickiest part of loading a deadlift bar is the very first plate on each side. With the bar resting on the ground, the sleeve sits only a couple of inches off the floor, so you can’t just slide a plate straight on. Tilt the end of the bar up slightly with one hand, then guide the plate onto the sleeve with the other. If you’re using a standard 45-pound plate, this takes a bit of coordination but no real strength. Once you have one 45 on each side, those plates act as wheels, raising the bar to a consistent height (about 8.75 inches to the center of the sleeve) that makes every additional plate easy to load.
If you’re starting with lighter weight and don’t have full-size 45-pound plates on the bar, smaller plates sit lower to the ground and can make loading awkward. Bumper plates solve this because they’re all the same diameter regardless of weight. If you only have iron plates, just prop the bar end up on a low block or against the edge of your rack to give yourself clearance.
Adding More Plates Efficiently
Once you have at least one full-size plate per side, the bar rolls freely on those plates. To add or remove weight, roll the loaded bar onto a deadlift wedge or jack so the plates lift slightly off the ground. This creates a small gap between the bottom plate and the floor, letting you slide plates on and off without fighting gravity or pinching your fingers.
A rubber deadlift wedge is the simplest option. It’s a small ramp (roughly 9 inches long and about 1.25 inches tall) that you place against the innermost plate, then roll the bar forward onto it. The wedge lifts the plates about half an inch off the ground. That’s enough clearance to swap plates quickly. Wedges are cheap, fit in a gym bag, and take up almost no space.
A full-size deadlift jack works like a lever or cradle that lifts one entire side of the bar several inches. These are faster if you’re making big weight jumps, but they take up floor space. In a tight home gym, a pair of mini bar jacks or wedges will do the same job with a much smaller footprint. Full jacks shine in commercial gyms or dedicated platforms where space isn’t a concern.
If you don’t have any loading tool, you can roll one side of the bar so the plates rest on a spare 2.5- or 5-pound plate lying flat on the floor. That tiny elevation is often enough to slide plates on and off.
Common Plate Combinations
A standard barbell weighs 45 pounds (20 kg) and is about 7 feet long. Every weight you load is split evenly between both sides. Here are the plate-per-side breakdowns for the most common deadlift milestones:
- 135 lbs: one 45-pound plate per side
- 225 lbs: two 45-pound plates per side
- 315 lbs: three 45-pound plates plus one 25-pound plate per side
- 405 lbs: four 45-pound plates per side
When you need weights between those milestones, fill in with 25s, 10s, 5s, and 2.5s. Always load the heaviest plates closest to the collar (the clip that locks plates in place) and work outward to the smaller ones. This keeps the weight distribution tight against the sleeve and prevents plates from shifting during your lift.
Loading Plates Without Straining Your Back
It sounds ironic to hurt your back loading the bar before you even deadlift, but it happens more often than you’d think, especially once the plates get heavy. A 45-pound plate picked up carelessly from a low rack or the floor dozens of times across a session adds up.
Squat or hinge at the hips to pick plates up from the ground rather than rounding your back and reaching down. Carry plates close to your body. When sliding a plate onto the sleeve, position yourself beside the bar facing the end rather than standing behind it and reaching forward. This keeps your spine neutral and lets your arms do the guiding without awkward twisting.
If you’re loading four or more plates per side, a deadlift jack or wedge becomes more than a convenience. Trying to tilt a bar loaded with 300-plus pounds to squeeze on another plate is a recipe for the bar slipping or your grip failing.
Load Evenly, One Side at a Time
Always alternate sides as you load. Put one plate on the left, then one on the right, and repeat. If you stack all your weight on one side before touching the other, the bar will tip. This is especially true if the bar isn’t sitting in a rack. A barbell on the floor with three 45s on one side and nothing on the other will flip like a seesaw.
A reasonable rule: never let the difference between the two sides exceed one plate. And always use collars (spring clips or clamp-style locks) on both ends before you lift. Plates that slide during a heavy deadlift can shift your balance mid-rep and cause the bar to drift.
Keeping Your Sleeves in Good Shape
Plates that stick or scrape going onto the bar usually mean the sleeves need attention. A light machine oil (3-in-1 oil or a synthetic lubricant) applied to the sleeves protects against rust and keeps them spinning freely. If your barbell has bushings or exposed sleeves, put a drop or two of oil at the seam where the sleeve meets the shaft, then rotate the sleeve several times to work the oil into the bearing system. Wipe away any excess. Bars with sealed bearings don’t need this step.
Chalk buildup, sweat, and oxidation all create friction on the sleeves over time. A quick wipe-down after each session and occasional oiling keeps plates sliding on smoothly and extends the life of the bar.