Making a paper human figure takes just a few minutes with scissors, paper, and a pencil. Whether you want a single standing figure, a chain of connected people, or a jointed doll with movable arms and legs, the techniques are straightforward. Here are the easiest methods, starting with the simplest.
Basic Flat Figure
The fastest approach is drawing and cutting a single human shape from a sheet of paper. Fold a piece of paper in half vertically, draw half a person along the fold (half a head, one arm extending outward, half the torso, one leg), and cut along your lines. When you unfold it, you get a perfectly symmetrical figure. This works with any paper you have on hand, from printer paper to construction paper.
If you want the figure to look a little more polished, draw the template on one sheet first, then trace it onto thicker paper or cardstock before cutting. A small, sharp pair of scissors gives you cleaner edges around curves like the head and hands than larger household scissors will.
Paper People Chain
A paper chain produces a row of identical figures holding hands, and it’s one of the most satisfying paper crafts because the “reveal” at the end feels almost magical. You need a long strip of paper, ideally at least 30 cm wide so you get several connected figures.
Start by folding the strip concertina-style, the same back-and-forth pattern you’d use to make a paper fan. Each fold should be the same width, roughly the width you want one figure to be. Once the whole strip is folded into a neat stack, draw a person on the front panel. The key detail: make sure the arms extend all the way to both folded edges of the paper. If you want the feet connected too, draw the legs wide enough to touch both edges as well.
Cut around your drawn figure through all the layers at once, but do not cut where the hands (or feet) meet the folded edges. Those uncut connection points are what holds the chain together. Unfold the strip and you’ll have a row of linked figures. You can tape or staple multiple chains together to make them as long as you need for decorations or classroom projects.
Making a Figure That Stands Up
Flat paper figures tip over the moment you set them down. The simplest fix is adding two small rectangular tabs at the bottom of the figure, one extending from each foot or from the base of each leg. Cut these tabs out as part of the figure. Then cut a vertical slit halfway up from the bottom of one tab, and halfway down from the top of the other tab. Slide the two slits into each other so the tabs interlock at a right angle, forming a cross-shaped base. The figure will stand on its own.
Another option is folding a single wide tab backward at a 90-degree angle, like a kickstand. This works for lighter figures but isn’t as stable as the interlocking slit method, especially if the figure is tall relative to its base.
Jointed Figure With Movable Parts
For a figure with arms and legs that actually move, you’ll make each body part as a separate piece and connect them with paper fasteners (the small brass brads you can find at any office supply store). Draw and cut out five pieces: a body with a head, two arms, and two legs.
Use a hole punch or the tip of a pencil to poke a hole at each connection point: the shoulders on the body and the tops of both arms, the hips on the body and the tops of both legs. Layer the pieces in the right order before inserting the brads. Place the arms on top of the body piece so they sit in front of any clothing you’ve drawn. Place the legs behind the body so they’re partially hidden by the torso. This layering makes the figure look more natural and “dressed.”
Push a brad through each matching pair of holes, flip the figure over, and open the two prongs of the brad flat against the back. Leave them slightly loose rather than pressing them tight against the paper. The joints need a little room to pivot freely, which is the whole point of making a jointed figure.
Choosing the Right Paper
Standard printer paper (around 80 gsm) works fine for flat figures and paper chains. It folds easily and cuts cleanly through multiple layers. For figures that need to stand up or for jointed dolls, use medium-weight cardstock in the 120 to 200 gsm range. This is the same weight as a sturdy greeting card or postcard. It holds its shape without flopping over, but it’s still easy to cut with regular scissors.
Anything above 200 gsm gets difficult to fold through multiple layers for a chain and can be tough on scissors. Anything below 80 gsm (like tissue paper or newsprint) won’t hold a standing shape at all. If you’re making a figure for a child to color and play with, 120 gsm cardstock hits the sweet spot: sturdy enough to handle, light enough to cut without frustration.
Tools That Make It Easier
You really only need scissors and a pencil. Beyond that, a few extras can help:
- Small sharp scissors: Essential for cutting curves around heads, fingers, and other detailed shapes. Large scissors make these cuts ragged.
- Paper trimmer: Useful if you need to cut your paper into a precise strip before folding, since it gives you a straight edge without measuring.
- Liquid glue or a glue stick: Handy for attaching clothing, hair, or accessories to your figure. Liquid glue gives more precision for small pieces.
- Double-sided tape: A cleaner alternative to glue when layering paper pieces, since there’s no drying time and no wrinkled paper.
- Brass paper fasteners (brads): Required for jointed figures. A box of 50 costs very little and lasts through dozens of projects.
Tips for Cleaner Results
When cutting through multiple layers for a chain, press the folded stack firmly with your non-cutting hand so the layers don’t shift. If the paper keeps sliding, use a small binder clip on the end you’re not cutting to hold everything aligned.
For symmetrical single figures, always fold the paper first and draw only half the body along the fold. Freehand cutting a full figure almost never produces even shoulders or matching legs. The fold does the symmetry work for you.
If your standing figure keeps tipping forward or backward, the interlocking base tabs may be too small relative to the figure’s height. As a general rule, make each tab at least one-quarter the height of the figure. A 20 cm tall figure needs tabs roughly 5 cm long to stay balanced.