The most reliable way to make a paper sphere is the gore method: cutting identical petal-shaped strips that, when glued side by side, wrap into a round form. Each strip is called a “gore,” and the technique is the same one used to make globes for centuries. You can draw your own template with some simple math, or print one from a generator online. Here’s how both approaches work, plus alternative methods if you want something quicker or more decorative.
How the Gore Method Works
A gore is a long, pointed oval, wide at the middle and tapering to points at both ends. When you cut several identical gores and glue their long edges together, they curve naturally into a sphere. Think of it like peeling an orange in even vertical strips, then reversing the process.
The number of gores you use determines how smooth your sphere looks. Fewer gores (6 or 8) create a faceted, segmented look that’s forgiving for beginners. More gores (12 or higher) produce a rounder result but demand more precision when aligning edges. Professional globe makers have historically used anywhere from 9 to 24 gores depending on the sphere’s size and purpose. For a first project, 8 or 12 gores hit the sweet spot between smoothness and ease of assembly.
Drawing Your Own Gore Template
If you want a sphere with a specific diameter, you can calculate the exact gore shape yourself. Start by deciding two things: the radius of your sphere (R) and the number of gores (N).
The full length of each gore, from tip to tip, is pi times the radius (π × R). So for a sphere with a 3-inch radius (6-inch diameter), each gore will be about 9.42 inches long. The widest point sits at the middle of the gore, representing the equator.
The curved edge of each gore follows a cosine wave. If you measure distance (x) from the equator toward either tip, the half-width at any point is: R × tan(π/N) × cos(x/R). For 12 gores, that simplifies to roughly R × 0.268 × cos(x/R). For 8 gores, the factor is about R × 0.414.
In practice, you don’t need to plot dozens of points. Mark the center line of the gore along its full length. Then calculate the half-width at 5 or 6 evenly spaced points between the equator and each tip. Plot those points on both sides of the center line and connect them with a smooth curve. A flexible ruler or French curve helps here. Once you have one gore drawn, cut it out and use it as a stencil for the rest.
Using a Printable Template
If the math feels like overkill, free printable gore templates are widely available online. Search for “paper globe gore template” or “paper sphere template PDF” and you’ll find ready-to-print sheets where all the gores are laid out on standard letter or A4 paper. Many template generators let you enter your desired sphere diameter and number of gores, then produce a custom PDF.
When printing, make sure your printer is set to “actual size” or 100% scale. Any scaling will change the final sphere diameter and throw off how the gores meet at the poles.
Choosing the Right Paper
Standard printer paper (about 80 gsm) is too flimsy for a sphere that holds its shape. Cardstock around 65 lb cover weight (176 gsm) is the best starting point. It’s thick enough to hold a curve without collapsing but still pliable enough to bend smoothly. This is the weight you’ll find in most craft store cardstock packs.
Heavier cardstock, like 100 lb cover (271 gsm), is too stiff to curve gently and tends to crease or buckle when you try to bend it into a round shape. Save that for flat projects like cards or boxes. If your sphere will be larger than about 8 inches in diameter, the lighter 65 lb weight is even more important, since larger gores need to curve more gradually.
Cutting, Scoring, and Assembling
Cut your gores carefully with sharp scissors or a craft knife on a cutting mat. Even small irregularities along the curved edges will show up as bumps or gaps on the finished sphere. If you’re making multiple spheres or need precision, a craft knife gives cleaner curves than scissors.
Before assembling, lightly score each gore down its center line. A bone folder (a smooth, blunt tool made from bone or plastic) pressed along a straightedge creates a shallow crease that helps the paper curve evenly without cracking. You can also use the back of a butter knife or an empty ballpoint pen. The goal is a gentle guide line, not a hard fold.
To assemble, glue the gores together one at a time along their long edges. Start by attaching two gores side by side, aligning the tips precisely. A thin line of white glue or a glue stick works well. Paper clips or binder clips can hold edges together while the glue dries. Add gores one at a time, building up one hemisphere. Then build the second hemisphere separately and join them, or keep adding gores around until the sphere closes. Leave the last gore partially unglued until you can tuck and align the final seam from inside.
The tips of the gores (the poles) are the trickiest part. They all converge at a single point, and too much glue or overlapping paper creates a lumpy nub. Trim the very tips of each gore slightly (about 1/8 inch) before assembly. This leaves a tiny hole at each pole that you can cover with a small paper circle after the sphere dries.
Alternative: The Modular Origami Sphere
If you’d rather fold than cut and glue, modular origami creates sphere-like shapes from identical folded units that lock together without adhesive. The Sonobe unit is the most beginner-friendly version. Each unit is folded from a single square of paper, and the units have pockets and tabs that slot into each other.
Six Sonobe units make a cube. Twelve make an octahedron (a shape with 8 triangular faces). Thirty units produce an icosahedron, which has 20 triangular faces and looks convincingly spherical from a distance. The folding is simple and repetitive. The real challenge is the assembly, where you need to weave tabs into pockets while keeping the structure from popping apart. Using slightly textured paper helps the units grip each other.
Alternative: The Sliceform Sphere
A sliceform uses interlocking flat rings rather than gores. You cut a series of circles in graduated sizes, each with evenly spaced slots cut halfway through. The circles slide together at right angles through their slots, creating a lattice that forms a sphere. This method produces an open, skeletal sphere rather than a solid surface, which makes it better for decorations or ornaments than for globes.
You’ll typically need 6 to 8 circles in each direction (12 to 16 total). The largest circles go at the equator, and they get progressively smaller toward the poles. Templates for sliceform spheres are available online and are simpler to draw than gores, since every piece is just a circle with slots.
Tips for a Cleaner Result
- Let glue dry between gores. Rushing the assembly warps the paper before the bond sets. Even 2 to 3 minutes between each gore makes a difference.
- Pre-curve the gores. Before gluing, roll each gore gently around a dowel or marker to give it a natural curve. Flat gores resist bending and create angular seams.
- Use consistent grain direction. Paper has a grain that bends more easily in one direction. Cut all your gores so the grain runs along the length (tip to tip), which helps them curve smoothly around the equator.
- Size matters for difficulty. Spheres between 4 and 8 inches in diameter are the easiest to handle. Smaller spheres require fiddly precision at the poles, and larger ones need stiffer internal support or they sag under their own weight.