Making gotu kola oil is a straightforward process: you steep dried gotu kola leaves in a carrier oil for several weeks, strain out the plant material, and bottle the finished product. The result is an herb-infused oil rich in compounds that promote collagen production and skin repair. You can make it with basic kitchen supplies and a bit of patience.
Why Gotu Kola Works in an Infused Oil
Gotu kola contains a group of active compounds called triterpenes that do two important things for skin. First, they stimulate the cells responsible for building collagen (fibroblasts), increasing both their number and their output of type I collagen, the structural protein that keeps skin firm. Second, they promote the growth of new blood vessels, which improves circulation and helps skin recover from damage. These compounds also strengthen newly formed skin and can reduce inflammation in scar tissue, including raised scars and keloids.
When you infuse gotu kola in oil, these fat-soluble compounds transfer into the carrier oil, creating a product you can apply directly to skin. The oil acts as both a delivery vehicle and a moisturizer.
What You Need
The ingredient list is short:
- Dried gotu kola leaves. A large handful for a 500 ml (16 oz) batch. Dried is strongly preferred over fresh because moisture in fresh herbs introduces water into the oil, which accelerates rancidity. If you only have fresh leaves, wilt them for at least 12 hours to drive off moisture, then chop and crush them with a mortar and pestle before adding them to the oil.
- Carrier oil. Olive oil and fractionated coconut oil (MCT oil) are popular choices because they have long shelf lives and work well on skin. Jojoba oil and sweet almond oil are also good options. Pick one based on how you plan to use the finished product and what feels good on your skin.
- A clean glass jar. A 500 ml mason jar or similar container with a tight-fitting lid.
- Vitamin E oil (optional). Adding up to 1% vitamin E by volume acts as a natural preservative and extends shelf life for topical use.
The Cold Infusion Method
This is the simplest approach and the one most herbalists recommend for preserving gotu kola’s active compounds.
Fill your glass jar loosely with dried gotu kola leaves, then pour carrier oil over them until the leaves are fully submerged with about an inch of oil above the plant material. Seal the jar tightly. Place it somewhere warm but out of direct, harsh light for about four weeks. Some makers like to give the jar a spot where it catches a little indirect sun, sometimes called solar infusion. Shake or swirl the jar every few days to keep things moving.
After 30 days, your oil is ready to strain. The long maceration time allows the active compounds to fully transfer into the oil at a gentle pace, with no risk of heat damage.
The Heat Infusion Method
If you don’t want to wait a month, you can speed up extraction using gentle heat. A slow cooker, double boiler, or even a yogurt maker works well. Place the dried leaves and oil in your vessel and keep the temperature low and steady.
This is where temperature matters. The key active compounds in gotu kola begin to degrade more rapidly above 70°C (about 158°F). Temperature has a more pronounced effect on their stability than any other variable. Keep your heat source well below that threshold. Aim for around 40 to 60°C (100 to 140°F). At that range, you can complete an infusion in roughly 4 to 8 hours instead of weeks, while still preserving the beneficial compounds.
If you’re using a slow cooker, the “warm” setting on most models sits in this range. Check with a kitchen thermometer if you’re unsure. Stir occasionally, and never let the oil simmer or smoke.
Straining and Bottling
Once your infusion is complete, you need to remove all plant material. Even tiny bits of herb left in the oil can introduce moisture and speed up spoilage.
Start by pouring the oil through a layer of cheesecloth or muslin draped over a bowl or wide-mouth jar. Squeeze gently to extract as much oil as possible from the leaves. Keep in mind that oil typically won’t wash out of cheesecloth, so use a piece you’re willing to discard.
After the first strain, you may notice fine sediment that makes the oil slightly gritty. If this bothers you, run the oil through a paper coffee filter for a second pass. This is a slow-drip process, and you may need more than one filter to get through the full batch. It’s worth the wait: a cleaner oil looks better, feels smoother on skin, and stores longer.
Transfer the finished oil into a dark-colored glass bottle. Amber or cobalt blue bottles block light, which slows oxidation. If you’re adding vitamin E, stir it in now before sealing.
Storage and Shelf Life
Light and heat are the two main enemies of infused oils. Store your gotu kola oil in a cool, dark place. A cabinet or drawer away from the stove works fine for regular use.
For longer storage, keep the oil in the refrigerator. Properly made infused oils using dried herbs and a stable carrier oil like olive or fractionated coconut oil can last several months when refrigerated, though you should check for off smells or cloudiness before each use. If you made a large batch, you can freeze portions and thaw them as needed.
Oils made with fresh or insufficiently dried herbs have a much shorter safe window. Without acidification, the University of Georgia Extension recommends discarding fresh-herb infused oils after just four days in the refrigerator. This is another strong reason to start with thoroughly dried leaves.
How to Use It
Gotu kola oil works as a facial oil, body oil, or targeted treatment for scars and stretch marks. Apply a small amount to clean skin and massage it in. Many people use it as part of a nighttime routine, since the oil can feel heavy under makeup or sunscreen.
You can also use it as a base for salves and balms by melting beeswax into the finished oil, or blend it with other infused oils like calendula or rosehip for a multi-herb product.
Skin Sensitivity
Allergic reactions to topical gotu kola are rare, but they do occur. Contact dermatitis is the most commonly reported issue. Before applying the oil to a large area, test a small amount on the inside of your wrist or behind your ear. Wait 24 hours. If you see redness, itching, or irritation, discontinue use. People with known sensitivities to plants in the carrot family (Apiaceae) may be more likely to react.