Making licorice extract for skin at home involves soaking dried licorice root in a solvent like alcohol or glycerin to pull out compounds that brighten skin and calm inflammation. The process is straightforward, but the type of licorice root you choose and the solvent you use make a significant difference in how well the final extract works.
Why Licorice Extract Works on Skin
Licorice root contains a group of flavonoids that interfere with melanin production at multiple stages. The most studied of these is glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for triggering the chain reaction that creates pigment in your skin. Beyond just blocking that enzyme, glabridin also slows the transport of pigment granules within skin cells and promotes the breakdown of melanin that’s already formed. This multi-pronged effect is why licorice shows up so frequently in brightening serums and dark spot treatments.
Another compound, isoliquiritigenin, adds antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Research has shown it reduces melanin production in lab settings and may even work better after heat processing, which increases its concentration. The anti-inflammatory properties make licorice extract useful for calming redness and irritation alongside its brightening effects.
Choose the Right Licorice Species
This step matters more than most DIY guides let on. Glabridin, the star compound for skin brightening, is found exclusively in Glycyrrhiza glabra, sometimes labeled as European or Mediterranean licorice. It makes up roughly 0.08% to 0.35% of the dried root’s weight. Two other common species sold for herbal use, G. uralensis (Chinese licorice) and G. inflata, contain zero glabridin. If your dried root doesn’t specify the species, you may end up with a pleasant-smelling extract that does very little for hyperpigmentation.
Look for dried, cut-and-sifted G. glabra root from herbal suppliers. Powdered root works too and extracts faster, but it makes straining messier. Either form should be stored in a cool, dark place before use.
Pick Your Solvent
The solvent you soak the root in determines which compounds end up in your extract. You have three realistic options at home, each with trade-offs.
- High-proof alcohol (vodka or grain alcohol): Ethanol dissolves both water-soluble and fat-soluble compounds, which means it pulls out a broader range of active ingredients than water alone. Research consistently shows that ethanolic extracts contain higher concentrations of bioactive compounds and demonstrate stronger biological activity. In one comparison, an ethanol-based licorice extract was eight times more potent than a water-based one at the same task. For skin brightening, this is the best choice. Use at least 40% alcohol (80-proof vodka). Higher proof extracts more efficiently.
- Vegetable glycerin: A good option if you want to avoid alcohol in your final product. Glycerin is a mild solvent that extracts moderate amounts of active compounds and doubles as a humectant in skincare. It won’t pull out as many fat-soluble flavonoids as alcohol, so the brightening effect will be weaker. You can use a mix of roughly 60% glycerin and 40% distilled water to improve extraction.
- Distilled water: The simplest approach, but the least effective for glabridin specifically, since glabridin is lipophilic (fat-loving) and dissolves poorly in water. A water infusion will still contain some beneficial compounds like glycyrrhizin, but it won’t be as potent for pigmentation concerns. Water-based extracts also spoil quickly without a preservative.
Step-by-Step Extraction by Maceration
Maceration is the simplest extraction method and requires no special equipment. It works by letting the solvent slowly dissolve compounds from the plant material over days. Here’s the process:
What you need: dried G. glabra root (cut or powdered), your chosen solvent, a clean glass jar with a tight lid, a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth, and a dark glass bottle for storage.
Ratio and Setup
Use a 1:10 weight-to-volume ratio as your starting point. That means 10 grams of dried root to 100 milliliters of solvent. If you’re using powdered root, which has more surface area exposed to the liquid, you can use a slightly lower ratio like 1:5 (10 grams to 50 milliliters) and still get a good extraction. Place the root in a clean glass jar and pour the solvent over it, making sure the plant material is fully submerged.
Infusion Period
Seal the jar tightly and store it at room temperature, around 15 to 20°C (59 to 68°F), away from direct sunlight. Let it sit for 4 to 6 weeks if you’re using alcohol or glycerin. Shake or stir the jar once daily to help the solvent penetrate the plant material evenly. Research on maceration of G. glabra notes that the process works well at room temperature without heating, which is actually preferable because high temperatures can destroy some of the more delicate bioactive compounds in the root.
If you want a faster result, you can do a warm infusion instead. Heat distilled water to about 60°C (140°F), not boiling, and steep the root for 4 to 6 hours. This shortcut works reasonably well for water-soluble compounds but risks degrading heat-sensitive ones. For alcohol and glycerin extracts, stick with the cold maceration method.
Straining and Storage
After the infusion period, strain the liquid through cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. If you used powdered root, strain twice or use a coffee filter to remove fine particles. Pour the finished extract into a dark glass bottle, since light degrades the active compounds over time.
Alcohol-based extracts have a long shelf life, typically 1 to 2 years, because the alcohol acts as a preservative. Glycerin-based extracts last several months. Water-based extracts should be refrigerated and used within 1 to 2 weeks, or you’ll need to add a broad-spectrum preservative to prevent bacterial and fungal growth.
How to Use It on Your Skin
A homemade licorice extract is a concentrated ingredient, not a finished product. The simplest way to use it is to add a few drops (roughly 5% to 10% of the total volume) to an unscented moisturizer, aloe vera gel, or a simple DIY serum base. You can also apply a small amount directly to dark spots using a cotton pad, though alcohol-based extracts may feel drying on their own.
For a basic brightening serum, mix 1 teaspoon of your licorice extract with 2 tablespoons of aloe vera gel and a few drops of vegetable glycerin. Apply it to clean skin before your moisturizer. Use it in the evening, and wear sunscreen during the day, since any brightening routine works against itself if UV exposure keeps stimulating pigment production.
Patch test first. Apply a small amount to the inside of your wrist or behind your ear and wait 24 hours. Licorice is generally well-tolerated, but homemade extracts vary in concentration and purity, so it’s worth checking for irritation before applying it to your face.
Limitations of Homemade Extracts
A DIY maceration pulls out a mix of compounds, but you have no way to measure the actual glabridin concentration in your finished product. Commercial licorice extracts used in skincare are standardized to contain a specific percentage of glabridin, often 40% or higher in the raw ingredient, and are formulated to remain stable in a product. Your homemade version will be far less concentrated, which means results will be slower and subtler.
The root quality also varies enormously. Glabridin content in G. glabra ranges from 0.08% to 0.35% of the dry weight depending on growing conditions, harvest timing, and storage. Two batches of root from different suppliers could produce noticeably different extracts. If you’re dealing with significant hyperpigmentation and want predictable results, a commercial serum with standardized licorice extract will outperform a homemade one. But for mild uneven tone, gentle maintenance, or as part of a broader DIY skincare routine, a well-made home extract is a reasonable and inexpensive option.