Making reusable menstrual pads requires layering three components: a soft top fabric against your skin, an absorbent core in the middle, and a waterproof backing to prevent leaks. The process is straightforward enough for a beginner sewer, and a single pad can replace roughly 240 disposable pads per year when you build a full rotation set.
Choosing Your Fabrics
The fabric you pick for each layer matters more than your sewing technique. Each layer has a different job, and using the wrong material in the wrong spot will give you a pad that leaks, feels clammy, or doesn’t absorb well.
Top Layer (Against Your Skin)
This needs to be soft, breathable, and comfortable against sensitive skin. Cotton flannel is the most popular choice because it’s gentle, widely available, and wicks moisture into the core layer below. Cotton jersey (t-shirt fabric) also works well. Avoid synthetic materials directly against your skin. Research published in the Canadian Medical Association Journal linked synthetic-topped disposable pads to vulvar irritation and contact dermatitis in a study of 28 women, with symptoms disappearing once they switched products. Sticking with natural fibers for the top layer helps avoid this.
Absorbent Core
This is where your material choice has the biggest impact on performance. A study in the Bayero Journal of Medical Laboratory Science tested various fabric combinations and found that a cotton top layer paired with a bamboo fleece core had the highest absorbency of any combination tested, absorbing up to 207 ml of fluid. Cotton fleece with bamboo fleece performed almost as well. Notably, bamboo fleece works better as a core material than as a top layer because it absorbs more slowly, giving it time to hold fluid rather than letting it sit on the surface.
Other good core options include cotton terry cloth, hemp fabric, and cotton flannel layered multiple times. You’ll stack multiple layers of your core fabric depending on your flow. For a midweight flannel core, use three layers for light flow, four to five for medium, and six for heavy days. If you’re using bamboo fleece or hemp, which are more absorbent per layer, you can get away with fewer layers.
Bottom Layer (Waterproof Backing)
Polyurethane laminate, commonly called PUL, is the standard waterproof backing for cloth pads. It’s a soft fabric bonded to a thin waterproof film that blocks leaks while still allowing some airflow. This breathability prevents the trapped-moisture feeling you get with plastic-backed disposables. Look for 2-layer PUL, which is a single fabric layer laminated to the waterproof barrier. Eco-friendly versions are manufactured without harmful solvents and can withstand over 300 washes. You can also use nylon or other water-resistant fabrics, but PUL is the easiest to sew and the most comfortable to wear.
Sizing Your Pads
A standard reusable pad finishes at roughly 9.5 inches long by 7 inches wide, including the wings that wrap around your underwear. This works for most regular-flow days. For light days or pantyliners, cut the length down to about 7 to 8 inches. For overnight or heavy-flow pads, extend the length to 11 to 13 inches and add extra core layers.
You can draft your own pattern on paper or find free printable templates online. The basic shape is an elongated oval for the body with two wing flaps extending from the center on each side. When drafting your own, add a half-inch seam allowance around the entire pattern piece.
Cutting and Assembling the Layers
For each pad, you need to cut:
- One top layer piece in the full pad shape (body plus wings)
- One bottom layer piece from PUL in the same full pad shape
- Core pieces cut to the shape of the body only (no wings), stacked to your desired absorbency
Start by stacking your core layers and stitching them together with a simple straight stitch or zigzag down the center. This keeps them from shifting during use and washing. Then place your top layer face down on a flat surface. Lay the stitched core stack on top, centered on the body area. Finally, place the PUL piece on top with its waterproof side facing up (so the soft fabric side faces the core). You should now have a sandwich with right sides together and the core tucked in the middle.
Pin everything in place and sew around the entire perimeter with a 1/4 to 1/2 inch seam allowance. Leave a 2 to 3 inch opening along one straight edge for turning. Clip curves and trim corners so the pad lies flat when turned. Reach through the opening, grab the far edge, and pull the whole pad right side out. Press the edges flat, tuck the opening’s raw edges inward, and topstitch around the entire pad about 1/8 inch from the edge. This closes the opening and gives the pad a clean, finished look.
Adding Wing Closures
The wings fold under your underwear and snap together to hold the pad in place. You need a closure on each wing, and the type you choose affects how long your pads last.
Metal snaps are the most durable option. They outlast the fabric itself in most cases and hold up to repeated washing without loosening. You can attach them with a simple snap-setting tool and a hammer, or a snap press if you plan to make many pads. Plastic resin snaps (like KAM snaps) are popular because they’re colorful and easy to install with a handheld press, but durability is a real concern. Many sewers report that plastic snaps crack, pop off, or stop gripping within months of regular washing. If you go with plastic snaps, buy name-brand ones and test a few before committing to a full set.
Place one snap socket on the wing of the top layer side and one snap stud on the opposite wing. Installing two snaps per wing (spaced about an inch apart) lets you adjust the fit for different underwear widths.
How Many Pads to Make
Most people need between 6 and 12 pads for a full cycle, depending on how often they want to wash. A practical starter set looks like this: 2 to 3 pantyliners for light days, 4 to 5 regular pads, and 2 to 3 heavy or overnight pads. This gives you enough to rotate through a day while a load of used pads is in the wash. If you prefer to wash only once during your period, double those numbers.
Washing and Care
After use, rinse your pad in cold water to flush out blood before it sets. Cold water is important here because hot water causes blood proteins to bind to fabric, creating stains. You can store rinsed pads in a small wet bag or lidded container until you have enough for a load.
When it’s time to wash, use a regular machine cycle with your usual detergent. Hot water at 160°F (71°C) is the CDC’s benchmark for destroying microorganisms in laundry, but lower temperatures in the 70°F to 77°F range can also reduce bacterial contamination effectively when combined with an oxygen-based bleach or bleach alternative. This is worth knowing because PUL fabric lasts longer at lower temperatures, and chlorine bleach can degrade both PUL and colored fabrics over time. Oxygen-based bleach alternatives offer antimicrobial benefits without the fabric damage.
Tumble dry on low heat or hang dry. High dryer heat can damage the PUL laminate and shorten the pad’s waterproof life. With proper care, a well-made reusable pad lasts three to five years.
Tips for Better Results
Use a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing through PUL. Standard sharp needles can puncture the waterproof film and create tiny leak points. Sewing slowly through the PUL layers also helps avoid needle holes from repositioning.
Prewash all your fabrics before cutting. Cotton flannel and bamboo fleece both shrink noticeably on the first wash, and you don’t want a pad that puckers or warps after its first trip through the machine. Prewashing also removes any sizing or chemical treatments from the fabric, which improves absorbency from the first use.
If your core feels too bulky, try mixing materials. A single layer of hemp (thin but highly absorbent) combined with one or two layers of bamboo fleece can give you a slimmer pad without sacrificing capacity. Experiment with your first pad before cutting an entire batch.