Making your own reusable menstrual pads requires just a few fabric layers, basic sewing skills, and about 30 minutes per pad. The process involves cutting a top layer, absorbent core, and waterproof backing to size, then sewing them together with snap or button closures on the wings. A well-made homemade pad lasts 3 to 5 years with proper care, and since the average person uses around 240 disposable pads per year, even a small set of reusable ones adds up to significant savings and far less waste.
Choosing Your Fabrics
A reusable pad has three functional layers, and each one needs a different type of fabric. Getting the right materials is the most important step, because no amount of careful sewing will fix a pad that leaks or feels uncomfortable.
The top layer sits against your skin. Cotton jersey (the fabric in soft t-shirts) is the most popular choice because it’s breathable, comfortable, and easy to sew. Cotton flannel is another good option, especially for colder months, since it feels warmer and has a slightly fuzzy texture that wicks moisture away from the surface. If you want something with more active moisture-wicking, athletic jersey fabrics or microfleece work well. Microfleece pulls moisture through to the absorbent layer below, keeping the surface feeling drier.
The absorbent core does the heavy lifting. Terry cloth (like towel fabric), cotton fleece, or hemp fabric are all strong absorbers. For heavier flows, you can stack two or three layers of absorbent fabric. Hemp is thinner than terry cloth at the same absorbency level, so it makes a less bulky pad. Avoid anything synthetic for this layer, as cotton, hemp, and bamboo all absorb and release moisture much more effectively during washing.
The waterproof backing prevents leaks. PUL (polyurethane laminate) is the standard material, the same fabric used in cloth diapers. It’s a thin polyester knit bonded to a waterproof polyurethane film. You may see some fabrics labeled as “TPU,” but this is really just PUL made with a heat-bonding process instead of chemical solvents. The heat-bonded version is softer and more flexible, which makes it slightly more comfortable as a pad backing. PUL is available at most fabric stores or online, typically sold by the yard.
Sizing and Cutting Your Pattern
Pad dimensions vary based on your flow and coverage needs. A useful starting framework:
- Panty liner (light flow): about 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 inches) long, 6 cm (2.5 inches) wide at the center
- Regular pad (medium flow): about 22 to 26 cm (9 to 10 inches) long, 7 cm (2.75 inches) wide
- Overnight or heavy-flow pad: about 29 to 35 cm (11.5 to 14 inches) long, 8 cm (3 inches) wide
The easiest way to start is by tracing a disposable pad you already like, then adding about 1 cm (roughly half an inch) around the edges for seam allowance. The shape looks like a stretched hourglass: wider at the front and back, narrower in the middle where the wings attach. Wings should extend about 5 to 6 cm (2 inches) out from each side of the narrow center section so they can wrap around your underwear and snap closed underneath.
Cut your top layer and PUL backing to the full pad shape, including wings. Cut your absorbent core to just the central body of the pad (no wings), since bulky fabric in the wings makes them harder to fold and snap.
Assembling and Sewing the Pad
Stack your layers in this order from bottom to top: PUL backing (waterproof side facing down), absorbent core centered in the middle, and top layer (soft side facing down toward the absorbent core). You’re essentially making a fabric sandwich with the “good sides” facing inward, because you’ll flip the whole thing inside out after sewing.
Pin the layers together and sew around the entire outer edge with a straight stitch, leaving a 3 to 4 cm (about 1.5 inch) gap along one straight edge for turning. Use a seam allowance of about 0.5 to 1 cm. Clip the curves with scissors (small snips toward the stitch line, but not through it) so the fabric lies flat when turned. Then reach through the gap, pull everything right-side out, and press the pad flat with an iron on low heat. Be careful ironing directly on PUL, as high heat can melt the waterproof layer. Use a pressing cloth or iron only from the fabric side.
Fold the raw edges of the turning gap inward and topstitch around the entire pad about 3 mm from the edge. This closes the gap and gives the pad a clean, finished look that also helps all the layers stay aligned through repeated washing.
Adding Wing Closures
The wings wrap under your underwear to hold the pad in place, and they need some kind of fastener to stay closed. You have three main options, each with tradeoffs.
Plastic KAM snaps are the most popular choice for homemade pads. They come in dozens of colors, install with an inexpensive handheld press, and create a secure closure that won’t scratch your skin. Place one snap socket on the top of one wing and the corresponding snap stud on the underside of the other wing, so they meet when folded beneath your underwear. Position them about 1 cm from the wing edge. Adding two snap positions (one slightly closer to the pad body, one further out) lets you adjust the fit for different underwear widths.
Buttons create the flattest closure, so you’re less likely to feel them while sitting. The downside is that sewing buttonholes and hand-stitching buttons takes more time. They also tend to loosen over many wash cycles and may need occasional re-sewing.
Hook-and-loop tape (Velcro) is the fastest option to apply: just cut small squares and sew them to each wing. It works well, but the hook side can snag other laundry, collect lint over time, and eventually lose its grip. If you go this route, use adhesive-backed Velcro and sew around the edges to keep it from peeling up.
Washing and Care
After use, rinse the pad in cold water until the water runs mostly clear. Cold water is key here, because hot water sets blood stains and makes them much harder to remove later. After rinsing, you can toss the pad into a small wet bag or bucket of cold water with a splash of hydrogen peroxide until laundry day.
When you’re ready to wash, machine wash on a warm or hot cycle with regular detergent. CDC guidelines for sanitizing reusable textiles recommend water temperatures of at least 160°F (71°C) for 25 minutes to eliminate bacteria, but studies also show that lower-temperature cycles (around 71 to 77°F) can effectively reduce microbial contamination when combined with an oxygen-based bleach additive. A warm wash with detergent and oxygen bleach (the color-safe kind) is a practical middle ground that cleans thoroughly without degrading PUL as quickly as repeated hot washes would.
Avoid fabric softener, which coats fibers and reduces absorbency over time. Tumble dry on low heat or line dry. High dryer heat can damage the PUL waterproof layer, so low is always safer. With this care routine, expect your pads to last 3 to 5 years of regular use, and longer if you rotate through a larger set so each pad gets less wear.
How Many Pads You Need
A practical starter set is 6 to 8 pads, which gets most people through a full period with one mid-cycle wash. If you’d rather wash only at the end of your period, aim for 10 to 12. A good mix might include 2 panty liners for light days, 4 to 5 regular pads, and 2 to 3 overnight pads. You can always add more once you’ve figured out which sizes and fabrics you prefer.
Each pad takes roughly 20 to 40 minutes to make once you’ve practiced the process a couple of times. Cutting multiple pads in a batch, assembly-line style, saves significant time compared to making them one at a time. If you’re using fabric scraps or old towels and t-shirts for the absorbent and top layers, your only real cost is the PUL backing and snaps, which typically runs under $15 for enough material to make a full set.