Making your own reusable sanitary pads requires three layers of fabric, a sewing machine (or needle and thread), and about 30 minutes per pad. The process is straightforward: cut a top layer, an absorbent core, and a waterproof backing to the same shape, stack them, sew them together, and add a snap or fastener to hold the pad in place on your underwear. Once you have the materials, you can produce a full set of pads for a fraction of what commercial reusable pads cost.
The Three Layers You Need
Every sanitary pad, whether store-bought or homemade, uses the same basic structure: a top sheet that touches your skin and lets fluid pass through, an absorbent core that holds the fluid, and a waterproof backing that prevents leaks onto your underwear. Commercial disposable pads use synthetic plastics for all three layers. When you make your own, you swap those for washable fabrics that do the same jobs.
Top layer (skin side): Choose a soft, breathable fabric that wicks moisture away from the surface. Cotton jersey, cotton flannel, or bamboo velour all work well. Cotton jersey (the same fabric as a t-shirt) is a good starting point because it’s cheap, soft, and easy to sew. Avoid fabrics with a loose weave, which can pill or snag.
Absorbent core (middle): This is the layer that does the heavy lifting. Cotton flannel is the most accessible option. For a moderate flow, use two to three layers of flannel. For heavy flow, use four or more. If you want a thinner pad, a specialty absorbent fabric like Zorb can replace multiple flannel layers. One layer of Zorb absorbs the equivalent of eight layers of flannel and holds ten times its weight in liquid, so it keeps pads slim without sacrificing capacity. Hemp fleece and bamboo fleece are other high-absorbency options that fall between flannel and Zorb in performance.
Waterproof backing (underwear side): Polyurethane laminate, commonly called PUL, is the standard choice for reusable menstrual products. It’s a thin polyester fabric bonded to a waterproof polyurethane film. You can also find TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane), which is bonded with heat rather than chemical adhesives. Both are waterproof and breathable enough to prevent that clammy feeling. Look for a quality PUL that can handle washing at 60 degrees Celsius (140°F), which is a good indicator of durability. Cheaper PUL is more prone to delamination, where the waterproof film separates from the fabric after repeated washing. If PUL isn’t available, a tightly woven nylon or even a layer cut from a repurposed waterproof shower curtain can work in a pinch, though neither will breathe as well.
Cutting Your Pattern
You can download free pad patterns online or make your own. A standard pad shape looks like a rectangle with two wider “wings” that wrap around the crotch of your underwear. A typical daytime pad measures roughly 25 cm (10 inches) long and 7 to 8 cm (about 3 inches) wide at the center, with wings that extend another 3 to 4 cm on each side. For overnight pads, extend the length to 30 to 35 cm (12 to 14 inches) and widen the back end.
To create a pattern, fold a piece of paper in half lengthwise and draw half the pad shape along the fold. Cut it out, unfold it, and you have a symmetrical template. Trace this onto your top fabric and PUL backing. For the absorbent core, cut a narrower version that fits within the main body of the pad (without the wings), since you don’t need absorbency in the wing flaps.
Two Ways to Assemble
There are two main construction methods: turned and topstitched, or serged (overlocked). The method you choose depends on what equipment you have and what finish you prefer.
Turned and Topstitched
This is the most common method for home sewers and requires only a basic sewing machine. Place your top fabric and PUL backing right sides together (the “good” sides facing each other). Layer the absorbent core on top. Sew around the entire perimeter with a 1 cm (3/8 inch) seam allowance, leaving a 5 to 7 cm gap along one straight edge for turning. Clip the curves so the fabric lies flat when turned. Reach through the gap, pull the pad right side out, and press it gently with an iron on a low setting (avoid high heat on PUL). Then topstitch around the entire edge, about 3 mm from the perimeter. This closes the turning gap and keeps all layers flat during use and washing.
Serged (Overlocked)
If you have a serger, stack all three layers right side out (top fabric on top, PUL on bottom, absorbent core sandwiched in between) and serge around the entire edge. This creates a finished, slightly stretchy border in a single pass. It’s faster, but the exposed seam can feel slightly rougher against the skin compared to a turned pad. A serger isn’t essential for pad making, but it does speed up production if you’re making a large batch.
Adding the Snap Closure
The wings need a fastener so the pad wraps securely around the crotch of your underwear. You have two options: resin snaps (often called KAM snaps) or hook-and-loop tape (Velcro).
KAM snaps are the more popular choice. They’re durable, low-profile, and don’t collect lint in the wash. You install them with a simple handheld press or pliers-style tool. Place one snap socket on the wing of the top fabric and the corresponding stud on the opposite wing (on the PUL side), so the wings snap together under your underwear. If your hips vary in width across different underwear, you can add two or three snap positions on each wing for adjustability.
Hook-and-loop fasteners are easier to source but come with drawbacks. The hook side catches on other laundry and collects lint over time, which weakens the grip. You’ll need to fold the wings together before washing to protect the hooks. Snaps last longer with less maintenance.
How Many Pads to Make
A practical starter set includes 6 to 8 daytime pads and 2 to 3 overnight pads. This gives you enough to rotate through a full period with one mid-cycle wash. If you prefer to wash only at the end of your cycle, you’ll want 10 to 12 daytime pads. Having a mix of absorbency levels is useful: a few lighter pads (two layers of flannel in the core) for the beginning and end of your period, and several heavier pads (four layers, or one layer of Zorb) for peak flow days.
Washing and Drying
After use, rinse the pad under cold water until the water runs mostly clear. Cold water is important here because hot water sets blood proteins into fabric, making stains permanent. For stubborn stains, soak the pad in cold water with a tablespoon of baking soda or a splash of white vinegar for a few hours before washing.
Machine wash on a gentle cycle with cold water and a mild detergent. Skip the fabric softener entirely. Softeners coat fabric fibers and reduce absorbency over time, which is the opposite of what you want. Never use bleach, as it degrades both the absorbent fibers and the PUL backing.
Air drying is gentlest on PUL and extends the life of your pads. Hang them in direct sunlight when possible. Sun drying has a mild disinfecting effect, and UV exposure helps fade residual stains. Most pads air dry in 4 to 8 hours depending on humidity and how many absorbent layers they contain. Thicker pads with multiple flannel layers take longer, so make sure they’re fully dry before storing to prevent mildew. You can tumble dry on low heat if needed, but high heat will shorten the lifespan of PUL.
Why Some People Switch to Homemade Pads
Research published in the National Library of Medicine found that commercial disposable pads contain both volatile organic compounds and phthalates, a class of chemicals linked to hormone disruption. These compounds come from the plastic layers used in manufacturing. Volatile organic compounds detected in disposable pads, including toluene and xylene, are associated with reproductive system effects in animal studies. Homemade cloth pads made from natural fibers and PUL avoid most of these exposures, since you’re choosing each material yourself.
Cost is another motivator. A set of 8 to 10 homemade pads costs roughly the same as two to three months of disposable pads, and a well-made cloth pad lasts three to five years with proper care. Over that lifespan, the savings add up to hundreds of dollars. And for people with sensitive skin who react to the fragrances, adhesives, or synthetic topsheets in commercial products, cloth pads eliminate those irritants entirely.