To measure your dog’s height at the withers, you find the highest point of the shoulder blades, then measure straight down from that point to the floor while the dog stands square on a level surface. The withers sit right at the base of the neck where the shoulder blades meet, forming a slight ridge you can feel between your fingertips. This is the universal reference point for dog height, used by breed standards, crate manufacturers, and veterinary records alike.
Where Exactly Are the Withers?
Run your hand along the back of your dog’s neck toward the body. Right where the neck meets the back, between and just above the tops of the shoulder blades, you’ll feel a bony ridge. That’s the withers. It’s the highest fixed point on a dog’s body when the head is in a relaxed position, which is why it became the standard measuring spot. Unlike the head or neck, which move constantly, the withers stay at a consistent height.
On lean, short-coated breeds like Greyhounds or Vizslas, you can often see the withers clearly. On thick-coated breeds like Samoyeds or Bernese Mountain Dogs, you’ll need to press through the fur with your fingers to find the actual bone. The coat can add a surprising amount of apparent height, so always measure to the skeletal landmark, not the top of the fluff.
Tools You Can Use
The simplest approach at home is a carpenter’s level or yardstick held horizontally across the withers, combined with a wall. Stand your dog next to the wall, lay the straight edge across the withers so it’s level and touching the wall, then mark the wall and measure from that mark to the floor with a tape measure. This two-step method is more accurate than trying to hold a tape measure vertically against a moving dog.
For formal purposes, dog shows use a device called a wicket. It looks like an upside-down U with adjustable legs. The crossbar sits over the dog’s withers, and the legs extend to the ground. The American Kennel Club requires judges to carry a metal tape measure to verify the wicket’s leg length before each use. Wickets are precise but overkill for home measuring. A rigid straight edge and a wall work just as well.
Soft fabric tape measures, the kind used for sewing, tend to produce inconsistent results. They can follow the curve of the dog’s body or sag, adding fractions of an inch. A rigid measuring tool gives you a reliable reading.
Step-by-Step Measuring Process
Choose a hard, flat floor. Carpet compresses unevenly under a dog’s weight, and outdoor ground is rarely level enough. A kitchen or bathroom floor works well.
Position your dog next to a wall with one front leg parallel to and nearly touching the wall. Make sure the dog is standing straight with shoulders and hips square. All four legs should be perpendicular to the floor, feet roughly shoulder-width apart. The dog’s head should be in a neutral position, not craned upward looking at you or dipped down sniffing the floor. A head held too high or too low shifts the shoulder blades and changes the height at the withers.
Place your straight edge (a level, ruler, or yardstick) horizontally across the highest point of the shoulder blades. Keep it level so one end touches the wall. Mark that spot on the wall with a small pencil line or piece of tape, then measure from the floor straight up to that mark. That distance is your dog’s height at the withers.
Take two or three measurements and average them. Dogs shift their weight, spread or tighten their stance, and fidget. Multiple readings help you land on the true number.
Common Mistakes That Throw Off the Number
The most frequent error is measuring while the dog is standing unevenly. If one front leg is slightly forward or the dog is leaning, the withers height changes. Think about how your own height shifts when you slouch versus stand tall. Square the dog up each time before you measure.
Measuring over a thick coat without pressing down to the bone is another common problem, especially on double-coated breeds. Part the fur or press the straight edge gently through it to find the actual skeletal ridge. On a heavily coated breed, fur alone can add half an inch or more.
Soft or uneven surfaces also introduce error. Measuring on grass, carpet, or a dog bed means the feet sink in differently depending on how the dog distributes its weight. Always use a hard, flat surface. And make sure your measuring tool is truly level. Tilting the straight edge even slightly will give you an inflated reading.
Why the Measurement Matters
Withers height is the number you need when sizing a crate, a dog door, a harness, or an airline carrier. For crate sizing, the general rule is to add 2 to 4 inches to your dog’s withers height. Smaller dogs need about 2 inches of clearance above their head when standing inside the crate, while larger dogs need closer to 4 inches. The same measurement, taken from withers to the ground, also determines the correct height for elevated food bowls and the minimum opening size for a dog door.
Breed registries use withers height to determine whether a dog falls within the breed standard. Some competitive events, including agility and conformation, have height classes or limits. In these cases, measurements are taken by officials with calibrated wickets, but knowing your dog’s height beforehand helps you enter the correct class.
Veterinarians also use withers height in combination with weight to assess body condition. A dog that’s 22 inches at the withers and 80 pounds is in a very different situation than one that’s 28 inches at the same weight. Having an accurate height on record helps track your dog’s overall proportions over time.
Measuring Puppies and Growing Dogs
Puppies can be measured the same way, but the number changes fast. Most breeds reach their full height at the withers between 12 and 18 months, though large and giant breeds may continue growing until age 2 or beyond. If you’re buying a crate for a puppy, measure now but plan to size up. Many crate manufacturers sell models with divider panels so you can expand the usable space as the puppy grows, rather than buying multiple crates.
For puppies that won’t stand still, having a second person hold a treat at nose level to keep the head neutral while you measure from behind makes the process much easier. Keep sessions short and positive so the dog doesn’t learn to dread the measuring stick.