Opening a mechanical keyboard switch takes about two seconds once you know the technique: you press a tool into the clips that hold the top and bottom housing together, and the switch pops apart into its individual pieces. The process is simple, but the exact method depends on whether your switch uses the standard four-prong design (Cherry MX style) or the two-prong wing-latch design (Kailh and Outemu style). Here’s how to do both without damaging anything.
Identify Your Switch Style First
Before you grab any tools, look at the sides of your switch. Most switches fall into one of two categories, and each opens differently.
Four-prong (MX style): You’ll see four small plastic clips, two on each side of the housing. Cherry, Gateron, JWK, and most other manufacturers use this design. A standard switch opener has teeth that wedge into all four prongs simultaneously, pushing them outward so the top housing lifts free.
Two-prong wing-latch style: Kailh and Outemu switches use wider latches on just two sides instead of four small clips. These latches look like little wings or tabs. Many universal switch openers include a second set of wider wedges specifically for this style, so check both sides of your opener if you have one.
Opening MX-Style Switches
Place the switch on a flat surface with the bottom housing facing up. Position your switch opener so its four teeth line up with the four clips on the sides of the switch. Press down firmly and evenly. The teeth wedge into the prongs, flexing them outward, and the bottom housing separates from the top. If you’re working with the switch right-side up instead, the top housing will pop off upward.
The key is even pressure. If you push harder on one side, you risk only releasing two of the four clips, which forces the housing apart at an angle. This can wear down or snap the locking tabs over time, especially on switches made from softer plastics like those found in some Gateron housings. One common complaint with poorly designed openers is that they push the bottom housing out before the clips fully release, grinding plastic against plastic and leaving visible marks on the tabs.
Opening Kailh and Outemu Wing-Latch Switches
Wing-latch switches are a bit trickier with tools because the latches need to flex outward on both sides at exactly the same time. Many people actually find it easier to open these with just their thumbnails. Place the switch between your thumbs and press both thumbnails into the wing latches simultaneously. Because your fingers naturally apply symmetric force to both sides, the latch releases cleanly and the top housing lifts off.
If your nails aren’t up to the task, use the wider wedge slots on a universal switch opener. Some openers label these as the “Kailh” or “box” slots.
Opening Switches Without a Dedicated Tool
You don’t need a purpose-built opener. Several household items work in a pinch:
- Tweezers: Insert the tips into two opposing clips and pry them outward gently, then repeat on the other two clips while holding the first side open.
- A small flathead screwdriver: Slide it under the edge of the top housing near a clip and lever it outward. Work your way around all four clips.
- A spare top housing: This is a favorite trick in the community. The legs on the underside of any top housing are shaped to fit into the clips of another switch. Once you’ve opened your first switch by any method, use that top housing as a makeshift opener for the rest.
- A binder clip: Remove the metal arms from a binder clip. The wire ends can be inserted into the clip holes on both sides of the switch and used to pry them apart simultaneously.
Whatever tool you use, avoid metal objects that are too thick or sharp. You can crack the thin plastic clips if you force them beyond their flex range.
What’s Inside the Switch
Once you pop a switch open, four main components come apart:
- Top housing: The upper shell with the hole where the stem slides up and down. The legs on its underside are what clip into the bottom housing to hold everything together.
- Stem: The colored piece with the cross-shaped post on top (where your keycap attaches). The stem has rails on its sides that slide along matching grooves in the bottom housing, keeping its travel perfectly vertical. Two small angled legs on the front of the stem interact with the metal leaf to register each keypress.
- Spring: Sits between the stem and the bottom housing. It determines how heavy the keypress feels.
- Bottom housing: The base of the switch, which contains the metal contact leaf (two thin metal pieces) pre-installed inside it. The center post in the bottom housing guides the stem’s center pole to keep everything aligned.
The metal contact leaf is the one component you generally should not remove or swap. It comes pre-assembled in the bottom housing, and the two thin metal pieces are positioned precisely so the stem’s legs can push them together to complete the electrical circuit when you press the key.
Reassembling the Switch
Put the spring back onto the center post of the bottom housing. Drop the stem in so its rails align with the grooves in the bottom housing and its front legs face the metal leaf. Then press the top housing straight down until all clips snap into place. You should hear a satisfying click when the housing locks.
A common reassembly mistake is inserting the stem backward. If the stem’s legs face away from the leaf instead of toward it, the switch won’t actuate. The cross-shaped keycap mount on top of the stem is slightly off-center, which can help you orient it correctly.
What to Do Once They’re Open
Most people open switches to lubricate them, swap springs for a different weight, or combine parts from different switches (called “franken-switching”). If you’re lubing, the type of lubricant matters based on your switch type.
For linear switches, thicker greases work best because the goal is maximum smoothness with no tactile bump to preserve. Krytox 205g0 is the most popular choice, producing a buttery, dampened feel. Tribosys 3204 is a slightly thinner alternative that still smooths things out without feeling overly heavy.
For tactile switches, you need a lighter touch. Too much lube (or too thick a lube) will muffle the tactile bump that makes the switch feel the way it does. Tribosys 3203 is the go-to here, thin enough to reduce scratchiness without flattening the bump. Krytox 105, a light oil applied with a brush, is another option that preserves nearly all of the original tactile feedback while cutting friction.
Apply lube to the stem rails, the inside walls of the housing where the stem slides, and the spring. Avoid getting lube directly on the metal leaf contacts, as this can interfere with the electrical connection.
Avoiding Damage
The most common way people break switches is by snapping the thin plastic locking tabs. This happens when you use too much force, pry from only one side, or use a poorly fitting tool that doesn’t release the clips before pushing the housings apart. If the tabs wear down, the top housing won’t stay firmly attached and the switch will feel loose.
Another risk comes during reassembly rather than opening. If you press the stem down too hard into a tight-fitting bottom housing (especially in a metal plate), the stem’s center pole can punch through the bottom of the housing. This is more common with certain stem and housing combinations during franken-switching than with stock switches, but it’s worth being gentle regardless.
If you’re opening a large batch, work in small groups of 10 to 20 at a time. This keeps parts organized and reduces the chance of mixing up components from different switches, which matters if you’re combining switches with different spring weights or stem types.