Ingrown hairs after dermaplaning are preventable with the right prep, aftercare, and timing between sessions. Because dermaplaning removes both vellus hair (peach fuzz) and the top layer of dead skin cells, the freshly exposed skin is more vulnerable than usual, and regrowing hairs can get trapped if that skin isn’t kept clear and hydrated as it heals.
Why Dermaplaning Causes Ingrown Hairs
Dermaplaning uses a surgical-grade blade held at a 45-degree angle to scrape away fine facial hair along with dead skin, oil, and surface debris. Unlike waxing, it doesn’t pull hair from the root. The follicle stays intact, so hair grows back from where it was cut. That blunt-tipped regrowth is slightly more prone to curling back into the skin instead of growing straight out, especially if dead skin cells accumulate over the follicle opening before the hair emerges.
The exfoliation itself also plays a role. Removing the outermost layer of skin triggers a healing response. As new skin forms, it can seal over follicles if the surface gets congested with heavy products, sweat, or buildup. The result: a hair that grows sideways under the skin rather than pushing through it.
Prep Your Skin Before the Procedure
What you do in the days leading up to dermaplaning matters almost as much as what you do after. Your skin should be free of open wounds, active breakouts, and recent irritation. Avoid exfoliating, shaving, or picking at your skin for several days beforehand, since any of these can cause superficial damage that compounds the effects of the blade.
Hydration helps too. Drinking enough water supports skin elasticity and healing. Well-hydrated skin is more pliable, which means regrowing hairs have an easier time pushing through the surface rather than getting trapped beneath it. If your skin tends to be dry or flaky, using a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer in the days before your appointment gives you a better starting point.
The First 3 to 5 Days After Dermaplaning
The window right after dermaplaning is when your risk of ingrown hairs is highest, and it’s also when your skin is most reactive. For the first three to five days, avoid these ingredients entirely:
- Retinoids and retinol: too aggressive for freshly exfoliated skin
- Glycolic acid and other AHAs: adds exfoliation on top of exfoliation
- Salicylic acid (BHA): can irritate raw skin even though it helps prevent ingrown hairs later
- Benzoyl peroxide: drying and potentially irritating
- Essential oils and strong fragrances: common triggers for burning and redness on compromised skin
During this initial window, stick to a simple routine: a gentle cleanser, a non-comedogenic moisturizer, and broad-spectrum sunscreen. Your freshly exposed skin lacks its usual protective barrier, so heavy creams, makeup with pore-clogging ingredients, and anything with fragrance can block follicles right when new hairs are starting to push through.
Start Chemical Exfoliation After You Heal
Once that three-to-five-day healing window closes, gentle chemical exfoliation becomes your best tool for preventing ingrown hairs. Exfoliating creams work by dissolving the top layer of dead skin so regrowing hairs can break through instead of getting trapped underneath.
Two categories of ingredients are most effective. Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, is oil-soluble, so it penetrates into pores and follicles to clear out debris from the inside. It’s especially useful if you’re prone to congestion or oily skin. Alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid work on the surface, loosening the bonds between dead skin cells so they shed more easily. A product with one of these acids used two to three times per week between dermaplaning sessions keeps follicle openings clear without over-exfoliating.
You don’t need both types at once. Pick one, start with a low concentration, and see how your skin responds before increasing frequency.
How Often to Dermaplane
Over-dermaplaning is one of the most common causes of post-procedure ingrown hairs. Each session removes a layer of skin, and your barrier needs time to fully rebuild before you do it again. Cleveland Clinic dermatologist Dr. Melissa Piliang recommends no more than once a week if you’re dermaplaning at home, specifically to give your skin time to recover between sessions.
For professional treatments, most providers space sessions three to four weeks apart. If you’re getting ingrown hairs repeatedly, extending the interval by a week or two can make a noticeable difference. Your skin’s tolerance also shifts with the seasons. Drier winter air or increased sun exposure in summer can slow barrier recovery, so adjusting your schedule based on how your skin feels is more useful than sticking to a rigid calendar.
Ingrown Hairs vs. Bacterial Folliculitis
Not every bump after dermaplaning is a simple ingrown hair. Bacterial folliculitis, an infection of the hair follicle usually caused by staph bacteria, can look similar but requires different treatment. Knowing the difference helps you respond appropriately.
Simple ingrown hairs typically appear as firm, slightly raised bumps. You can sometimes see the hair curled beneath the surface. They may be mildly tender but aren’t usually filled with pus. This is technically called pseudofolliculitis, and it’s most common in people with naturally curly or coily hair, since the curl pattern makes hairs more likely to re-enter the skin.
Bacterial folliculitis, by contrast, shows up as clusters of itchy, pus-filled bumps that may break open and crust over. The skin around them often feels hot, painful, or tender, and you may notice burning or significant redness spreading beyond the bumps themselves. If your post-dermaplaning bumps match this description, especially if they’re worsening after a few days rather than improving, it’s worth having them evaluated rather than treating them with over-the-counter exfoliants alone.
Daily Habits That Reduce Your Risk
Beyond products and timing, a few everyday habits make a real difference. Avoid touching your face unnecessarily in the days after dermaplaning. Your hands transfer bacteria and oils to freshly exposed skin, both of which can block follicles. Change your pillowcase within the first day or two after a session, since fabric collects oils and dead skin that press against your face for hours overnight.
If you exercise regularly, wash your face soon after sweating. Sweat mixed with surface bacteria is a reliable recipe for clogged follicles, and post-dermaplaning skin is less equipped to handle that load. A simple rinse with lukewarm water and a gentle cleanser is enough. Skip the washcloth or scrub brush, since physical exfoliation on top of dermaplaning creates more irritation than it prevents.
Sunscreen is non-negotiable. UV exposure triggers inflammation in freshly exfoliated skin, which can thicken the surface layer as a protective response. That thicker skin makes it harder for fine hairs to emerge cleanly. A lightweight, non-comedogenic mineral sunscreen with at least SPF 30 protects your skin without adding pore-clogging ingredients to the mix.