Taro, known scientifically as Colocasia esculenta, is a tropical plant cultivated for its starchy, edible underground stem, or corm, and its large, attractive foliage, which earns it the common name “elephant ear.” As a food crop, the corm and the young leaves serve as staples in many tropical regions, but its striking, heart-shaped leaves have also made it a popular ornamental houseplant in temperate climates. Propagating this plant is easily accomplished using vegetative parts, specifically the corms and the small offsets they produce, rather than relying on seeds. Successfully growing a new taro plant from a corm requires a structured approach, beginning with selecting the right planting material and following through with specific preparation and planting techniques.
Selecting the Propagating Material
Propagation material is selected from the harvested plant, focusing on the main corm and the smaller offsets, or cormels, that grow around it. The main corm is sometimes called the mother corm, while the cormels are the side shoots, which are often the preferred material for home propagation. Cormels are essentially miniature versions of the main corm and provide a high-quality start for a new plant.
Healthy cormels must be firm to the touch, indicating good water and nutrient storage, and should show no signs of soft spots or decay. Look for visible “eyes,” which are the dormant growth points from which the new leaves and roots will emerge. Planting material should be selected shortly after harvest, and larger pieces generally produce a more vigorous initial plant growth.
Preparing the Corms and Cormels
Before planting, the vegetative material requires a specific drying process known as curing. Curing is a significant step in preventing fungal disease and rot once the corm is in the soil. This process involves allowing the corms or cormels to dry for a few days in a warm, shaded, and well-ventilated area. Curing allows any cuts or damaged areas to form a protective, calloused layer, effectively sealing the tissue against pathogens.
If the main corm is used for propagation, it must be cut into smaller pieces, sometimes referred to as “seed pieces.” Each section must contain at least one healthy, visible growth eye to ensure a new plant will sprout. Use a sterilized knife or blade when cutting to minimize the risk of introducing disease to the fresh wound. After cutting, these pieces must also be allowed to air-dry and callous over for two to three days before being placed in the soil.
Step-by-Step Planting Instructions
Planting the prepared corms or cormels in soil or potting mix is the most reliable method for establishing new taro plants. Begin by choosing a deep container, ideally 50 to 60 centimeters deep, or a prepared garden bed. The soil should be rich and loamy, with a slightly acidic pH between 5.5 and 6.5. This composition promotes healthy root development. The planting material should be placed with the growth eye, or bud, facing upwards toward the soil surface.
For cormels or smaller seed pieces, a shallow planting depth of 5 to 8 centimeters is recommended to allow the new shoot to emerge easily. Gently press the surrounding soil around the corm to ensure good contact without compacting it excessively. Immediately after planting, a thorough watering is necessary to saturate the soil and initiate the growth process. While soil propagation is the standard, ornamental varieties can sometimes be started in water until roots and shoots appear, after which they are transferred to soil.
Essential Growing Conditions and Care
Taro thrives in environments that mimic its native tropical conditions, making consistent moisture a primary factor for successful establishment. The plant requires soil that is constantly moist and should never be allowed to fully dry out, earning it the nickname “potato of the tropics.” Maintaining a high level of humidity is also beneficial, especially when grown indoors, and can be achieved through regular misting or the use of a humidifier.
Taro prefers warm conditions, ideally with a consistent temperature range between 24 and 35 degrees Celsius (77–95°F), and it is not tolerant of frost. Newly planted corms should be placed in a location that receives full sun to partial shade, depending on the specific variety. Partial shade is often preferred in hotter climates to prevent leaf scorching. Initial fertilization should be a balanced, all-purpose organic fertilizer applied six to eight weeks after planting, once the plant has developed its first few true leaves.