How to Propagate a Thai Constellation Step-by-Step

The Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ is a highly coveted houseplant, prized for its unique, genetically stable speckling of creamy-white on deep green foliage. Propagating this variegated specimen allows you to create new plants from a mature one. The process requires precision because the cutting has reduced chlorophyll due to variegation. Successful propagation depends on providing optimal conditions for the new cutting to develop a robust root system before its limited resources are exhausted. Focusing on sterilization, proper cutting technique, and the right rooting medium increases the chances of multiplying this Aroid.

Essential Tools and Identifying the Cutting Point

Gather the necessary materials to ensure a clean and successful procedure. You will need a sharp cutting instrument, such as a sterile razor blade or bypass pruning snips, to make a quick and clean division of the plant tissue. Sterilizing the blade with rubbing alcohol prevents the introduction of bacterial or fungal pathogens that can cause devastating rot in the fresh wound. Have rooting hormone powder and a natural fungicide, such as ground cinnamon, ready for immediate post-cut treatment.

Identifying the correct place to cut centers on locating a viable node. The node is a slightly swollen, horizontal section of the stem where a leaf petiole attaches. This location contains both the aerial root and the dormant auxiliary bud, or “growing eye.” A successful cutting must include at least one node, as new roots and vegetative growth emerge only from this location. Look for a cutting with a balanced amount of green tissue to support energy needs, avoiding sections that are mostly white, which lack chlorophyll for photosynthesis.

The Propagation Cut

Wipe your sterilized blade with alcohol once more before making the cut. Make the cut on the stem about one inch below the chosen node, slicing through the internodal section. While some prefer a 45-degree angle to increase the surface area for root emergence, a clean and swift straight cut is also acceptable.

Treat the wounds on both the mother plant and the cutting immediately to seal the exposed tissue and prevent rot-causing organisms from entering. Dust the entire cut surface of the mother plant and the node area of the cutting generously with a commercial fungicide or ground cinnamon powder. Cinnamon acts as a natural antimicrobial agent, helping to desiccate the wound and protect the tissue during the vulnerable rooting period. Allow the cutting’s wound to air-dry and callous over for a few hours before proceeding to the rooting stage.

Establishing Roots in the Chosen Medium

To stimulate root development, lightly coat the node and any emerging aerial roots with rooting hormone powder, which contains auxins to promote cell division and root growth. Choose a rooting environment, with the best options being water or a semi-hydro medium. While water propagation is simple, the roots that form are structurally different and often struggle to transition successfully to soil later on.

A more reliable method for high-value Aroids is to use a substrate like moist sphagnum moss, perlite, or a mix of both, which provides a better balance of moisture retention and oxygen flow. Place the cutting with the node buried in the moist medium inside an enclosed container to maintain high ambient humidity, ideally above 70 percent. High humidity is essential to encourage the dormant auxiliary bud to activate and roots to form quickly. Place the setup in a warm spot with bright, indirect light; roots should appear within four to eight weeks. The cutting is ready for its permanent home when the new roots are firm, several inches long, and have developed secondary branching.

Transplanting the Rooted Cutting

When the cutting has developed a strong, branched root system, transition it into a permanent potting mix, anticipating potential transplant shock. The ideal substrate is a chunky, extremely well-draining Aroid mix, typically consisting of:

  • Orchid bark
  • Perlite or pumice
  • Coco coir
  • Horticultural charcoal

This composition ensures the mix holds some moisture while preventing the dense compaction that leads to root suffocation and rot.

Gently transfer the cutting into a small pot, ensuring the node is buried just beneath the surface of the new mix and the stem is secure. A smaller pot is preferable because it allows the substrate to dry out more quickly, minimizing the chance of overwatering during establishment. Do not water the newly potted cutting for two to three days to allow any minor root damage incurred during transplanting to heal, preventing immediate fungal entry. Keep the plant in high humidity and bright, indirect light for the first few weeks before gradually acclimatizing it to normal growing conditions.