The staghorn fern (Platycerium) is a unique houseplant prized for its dramatic, sculptural appearance. Its foliage consists of forked fronds that strikingly resemble the antlers of a deer or elk, giving the plant its common name. This organism is an epiphyte, meaning it grows harmlessly on the surface of other plants, such as tree trunks, rather than rooting in the soil. This epiphytic nature dictates a specialized approach to its care, differing significantly from conventional potted plants.
Essential Environmental Care
Staghorn ferns require bright, indirect light, mimicking the dappled light of a forest canopy for optimal growth. Placing the plant near an east- or north-facing window is ideal, as direct, intense sun exposure can easily scorch the delicate fronds. While these ferns can tolerate lower light levels, growth will slow significantly, and the plant’s health may decline over time.
Maintaining high humidity is necessary for this tropical plant, ideally between 50% and 80%. A bathroom or kitchen is often suitable due to naturally higher moisture levels, but a small humidifier or a humidity tray can supplement a drier indoor environment. Staghorn ferns prefer warm conditions, consistently maintained between 60–80°F (15–27°C), and they should be protected from cold drafts or temperatures falling below 50°F (10°C).
The watering technique for mounted ferns centers on a deep, thorough soaking method. The entire mount, including the root ball and the surrounding moss, should be submerged in room-temperature water for 10 to 20 minutes until fully saturated. The frequency of this soaking depends heavily on the mounting material and environmental warmth, but generally occurs once a week in warmer months and every two to three weeks during cooler periods.
Since epiphytes do not draw nutrients from rich soil, they require supplemental feeding during their active growing season in spring and summer. A diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer should be applied monthly during this period, often incorporated into the soaking water. Alternatively, some growers opt for natural feeding by placing a small piece of organic material, such as a banana peel, beneath the shield fronds, allowing it to decompose and release nutrients.
Specialized Mounting and Substrate
The staghorn fern involves two distinct types of fronds, both serving specialized purposes. The fertile (foliar) fronds are the antler-like structures that project outward and are responsible for reproduction, with spores found on their undersides. The second type, known as sterile or shield fronds, are flat, rounded plates that grow tightly against the mounting surface.
The shield fronds are initially green but eventually turn papery brown, and they should never be removed, as this is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle. These basal fronds function as a protective barrier for the root system. They also collect moisture and fallen organic debris, which the fern absorbs as nutrients. This adaptation explains why staghorn ferns should never be planted in standard potting soil, as they require a minimal, well-draining substrate to anchor themselves.
Mounting the fern mimics its natural growth habit and is the preferred way to display it. The process begins by creating a small mound of damp sphagnum moss on the chosen mount, such as a wooden board or piece of bark, to serve as the substrate for the root ball. The fern is then positioned so the shield fronds are flush against the moss and the mounting surface, ensuring the antler fronds face outward.
The fern is secured to the mount using non-copper wire, fishing line, or twine wrapped carefully around the root ball and the moss, pulling it taut against the board. Over time, the shield fronds will grow to cover the wire and secure the plant permanently, at which point the temporary ties can often be removed. The goal is to provide a firm anchor without burying the growing point or covering the developing shield fronds.
Propagation Methods
The most straightforward and reliable way to propagate a staghorn fern is through the separation of “pups,” or offsets, which are small plantlets that develop around the base of a mature plant. A pup should only be removed once it has developed its own established shield frond and appears to have a developing root system. Using a sterile, sharp knife, the pup is carefully cut away from the mother plant, ensuring minimal damage to the rhizome.
After separation, the pup is ready to be mounted in the same manner as a mature fern, using a small ball of moistened sphagnum moss as the initial substrate. The newly mounted pup should be kept in a warm, high-humidity environment with consistent moisture to encourage root establishment. This vegetative division yields a genetic clone of the parent plant and is the preferred method for home growers seeking to expand their collection.
A more technical method involves growing new ferns from spores, which appear as a brownish, dust-like coating on the underside of mature fertile fronds. Spores can be gently scraped onto a piece of paper and then sown onto a sterile, moist medium like peat moss. The container must be covered to create a high-humidity environment for germination.
Growing from spores is a time-intensive process that requires patience, as it can take several months for germination to occur. Once the spores germinate and develop into tiny plantlets, they must be gradually acclimatized to lower humidity before being transplanted to a proper mount. This method is generally reserved for enthusiasts due to the technical requirements and prolonged timeline for success.