The Camellia genus is composed of hundreds of species of flowering evergreen shrubs and small trees, most notably the popular ornamental types like Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. These plants are prized for their glossy foliage and winter or spring blooms. Propagation is the controlled process of generating a new plant from a parent, allowing gardeners to maintain the beauty and integrity of a favorite shrub. Successfully creating new plants requires understanding the specific biological mechanisms of reproduction.
Propagation by Stem Cuttings
Propagating camellias through stem cuttings is the most reliable method for cloning a specific cultivar, ensuring the new plant is genetically identical to the parent shrub. The best material to select is semi-hardwood, which represents the current season’s growth that has begun to firm up, usually collected from late summer through early fall. This wood is mature enough to withstand the rooting process but still retains the cellular activity necessary for root formation.
The ideal cutting should be taken from a healthy, non-flowering branch, measuring about four to six inches in length. Using a sharp, sterilized blade, make a clean cut just below a leaf node. To maximize the surface area for root development, lightly wound the stem by scraping a small sliver of bark from one side along the bottom inch of the cutting.
Remove all but the top two or three leaves to reduce moisture loss while ensuring the plant can still perform photosynthesis. Dipping the prepared, wounded end into a powdered or gel rooting hormone significantly increases the rate and success of rooting. The hormone stimulates the undifferentiated cells at the cut site to form adventitious roots.
Cuttings should be inserted into a well-draining, sterile rooting medium, such as a mix of three parts coarse sand to one part peat moss or perlite. Camellia cuttings require high humidity to prevent desiccation while the roots develop. This is best achieved by placing the container under a mist system or covering it with a clear plastic bag, ensuring the medium remains consistently moist. Maintaining a soil temperature between 65°F and 75°F encourages root development, which can take anywhere from six weeks to three months, depending on the cultivar.
Propagation by Seed
Growing camellias from seed involves sexual reproduction, meaning the resulting seedlings are genetically unique and will not be true to the parent plant. This method is primarily used by breeders seeking to develop new varieties, but it is also a slow endeavor for the home gardener. Camellia seed pods typically ripen and begin to split open in the early fall. Seeds should be collected and sown immediately, as they quickly lose viability if they are allowed to dry out.
The hard seed coat presents a physical barrier to germination, which can be overcome by soaking the seeds in water overnight or by gently nicking the shell with a file, a process known as scarification. A period of stratification—simulating winter conditions—can promote more reliable and uniform germination. This is accomplished by storing the seeds with a slightly moist medium in a cool, dark environment like a refrigerator for a couple of months.
Seeds should be planted about a half-inch deep in a container filled with a light, acidic seed-starting mix, such as a blend of pine bark and perlite. The containers must be kept consistently moist and placed in a bright area that receives indirect light. Germination can begin in as little as six to eight weeks, though some seeds may take until the following spring to sprout. The resulting seedlings require patience, as they can take four to seven years to produce their first flowers.
Essential Care for New Plants
Once the cutting has developed a strong root system or the seed has germinated, the new camellia plant must be carefully transitioned to a self-sufficient state. For seedlings, the small plant can be transplanted once the first true leaves appear or when the radicle, or primary root, is about two inches long. At this stage, some growers opt to prune the tip of the taproot to encourage a more branched, fibrous root system, which is beneficial for container growing.
The initial transplant moves the plant from the rooting medium into a small, temporary pot filled with a well-draining, slightly acidic potting mix, such as a commercial ericaceous blend. This move initiates the hardening-off process, where the fragile plant is gradually exposed to lower humidity and more variable air circulation outside of the protected propagation environment. This transition prevents shock and prepares the plant for less coddled conditions.
New plants thrive in a location that receives filtered or dappled light, mimicking the understory environment they prefer, while being protected from intense afternoon sun. Consistent moisture is necessary, but the acidic soil must drain quickly to prevent root rot. After the new plant shows signs of active growth, a light application of a diluted, acid-specific fertilizer can be introduced during the spring and early summer to support development. Fertilizing should cease by late summer to allow the new growth to harden naturally before the onset of cold weather.