The name “cedar” is commonly applied to a wide range of coniferous trees, including true cedars (Cedrus species) from the Mediterranean and Himalayan regions, as well as North American species like Arborvitae (Thuja) and Juniper (Juniperus). These genera are long-lived evergreens, and home propagation offers an efficient method to expand a landscape or maintain specific tree characteristics. Understanding the distinct processes of vegetative propagation (cuttings) and sexual reproduction (seeds) is the first step in successfully cultivating these trees. Both methods require careful timing and specific environmental controls, yielding very different results in the resulting plants.
Choosing Between Cuttings and Seeds
The choice between cuttings and seeds depends on the desired outcome for the new tree. Propagating from cuttings is a form of cloning, guaranteeing the new plant will be a genetic duplicate of the parent, maintaining traits like growth habit, color, and disease resistance. This method generally leads to a saleable-sized plant much faster than seeds, often within one to two years. However, the initial success rate can be unpredictable and requires a specific high-humidity environment.
Growing from seed introduces genetic variability, meaning the resulting seedling may not possess the same characteristics as the parent, especially if the parent tree is a hybrid or cultivar. While seeds are less expensive to acquire in bulk, the process is far slower, requiring a prolonged pre-treatment period and several years of growth before the tree reaches a transplantable size. Many conifer seeds exhibit deep dormancy and will not germinate without specific environmental cues. The decision depends on whether genetic consistency or low initial cost is the higher priority.
Step-by-Step Guide to Cedar Cuttings
The vegetative propagation of cedars is most effective when taking semi-hardwood cuttings during the late fall or early winter dormant period. This timing allows the cutting to be mature enough to survive the rooting process while retaining the hormonal capacity to form new roots before spring growth begins. The ideal cutting is a 4-to-6-inch shoot taken from the current season’s growth, preferably from the side branches.
Cuttings should be prepared using the “heel” method. The branchlet is gently stripped from the main stem so that a small piece of older wood, called the heel, remains attached at the base. This heel contains a higher concentration of growth hormones, increasing the likelihood of successful rooting. The lower third of the foliage must be removed to prevent decay when planted beneath the medium surface.
To stimulate root development, the cut end, including the heel, should be dipped into a powdered rooting hormone containing indole-3-butyric acid (IBA). The hormone encourages cell differentiation at the wound site, leading to the formation of root initials. The prepared cuttings are then inserted into a sterile, well-draining rooting medium, such as a mixture of peat moss and perlite or coarse sand.
The rooting environment requires high humidity and consistent warmth. Cuttings should be placed under a clear plastic dome or inside a sealed plastic bag to create a miniature greenhouse effect, minimizing water loss through the foliage. Maintaining the medium temperature between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, while keeping the cuttings in bright, indirect light, encourages root growth over the next two to three months. High humidity prevents the cutting from drying out before roots can form.
Growing Cedars from Seed
Propagating cedars from seed begins with sourcing viable seeds, either by collecting cones in the fall just before they open or by purchasing pre-cleaned stock. Cedar seeds possess deep dormancy, which prevents them from germinating prematurely. This dormancy must be broken through cold-moist stratification.
To stratify the seeds indoors, they are mixed with a sterile, moist substrate like peat moss, sand, or vermiculite. The medium should be damp but not soggy, as excessive moisture can lead to fungal growth and seed rot. This mixture is sealed inside a plastic bag or container and placed in a refrigerator between 33 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit for six to eight weeks.
This extended cold period mimics natural winter conditions, effectively breaking the dormancy mechanism. Once stratification is complete, the seeds are ready for planting in a standard seed-starting mix. Seeds should be sown shallowly, about one-quarter inch deep, and kept in a bright location with consistent moisture. Seedlings typically emerge in the spring following the cold treatment.
Caring for New Cedar Starts
Once a cutting has established a root system or a seedling has emerged, the new plant requires a careful transition to the outdoor environment. Rooting is confirmed by gently pulling on the cutting; resistance indicates that roots have formed, typically after 8 to 12 weeks. Before moving the new plants outdoors, they must be “hardened off” to acclimate them to sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures.
Hardening off involves gradually exposing the plant to outdoor conditions over a one-to-two-week period, starting with only a few hours of indirect morning sun each day. This process prevents transplant shock, which can damage or kill plants suddenly moved from a protected environment. After hardening off, the rooted cuttings or established seedlings should be transplanted into individual containers filled with a quality potting mix.
The new starts should be placed in a location that receives full sun to partial shade, depending on the species’ preference. Consistent deep watering is important while the root system develops, ensuring the top inch of soil dries slightly between waterings to avoid waterlogging and root rot. Initial light feeding with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can be applied once the plant shows active new growth, supporting its development until permanent placement in the landscape.