Pelargoniums are some of the most popular flowering plants, frequently but incorrectly referred to as “geraniums,” which belong to a different genus (Geranium) entirely. These tender perennials are valued for their vibrant, long-lasting flowers and often aromatic foliage, making them a common sight in containers and garden beds. Propagating Pelargoniums from cuttings is the most effective method for gardeners to maintain the exact characteristics of a specific variety, ensuring the new plant is a genetic clone of the parent. This technique allows for the continuous enjoyment of favorite colors, leaf patterns, and scents, as the parent plant often declines after a season or two.
Timing and Preparation
The most successful time to take Pelargonium cuttings is when the plant is actively growing, specifically in late summer or early fall, or during early spring. Taking cuttings in late summer allows the new plantlets to develop a root system before being overwintered indoors, ensuring a strong start for the following spring. Early spring propagation also works well, as the increasing light and warmth encourage rapid rooting and growth.
You will need a very sharp, sterile tool, such as a razor blade or clean snips, to make a cut that heals quickly and prevents disease entry. The rooting medium should be exceptionally well-draining, as Pelargoniums are highly susceptible to rot. A mixture of 50% perlite or horticultural grit mixed with 50% peat-based compost or seed-starting mix works well. Rooting hormone powder or gel can be used to promote root formation and may also contain a fungicide, though some varieties root readily without assistance.
The Step-by-Step Stem Cutting Technique
Selecting the correct material from the parent plant is the first step toward a successful cutting. Choose a healthy, non-flowering stem tip that is semi-ripe—neither too soft and green nor too woody—and has a diameter roughly the thickness of a pencil. The ideal cutting length is between three and five inches, which provides enough stem for planting without excessive foliage to support.
The cut should be made cleanly just below a leaf node, the swollen area where a leaf or bud emerges. This node contains tissue capable of producing new roots quickly. Remove all but the top two or three leaves to minimize moisture loss and prevent buried foliage from rotting. Any flower buds or stipules must also be removed to direct the plant’s energy toward root production instead of flowering.
Allow the freshly cut end to air-dry for several hours, or even a full day, until a slight callous forms over the wound. This drying period helps prevent fungal infection and stem rot. If using rooting hormone, gently dip the calloused end of the cutting into the powder or gel, tapping off any excess. Use a pencil or small dowel to create a planting hole in the prepared rooting medium, insert the cutting deep enough so that at least one to two bare nodes are below the surface, and gently firm the medium around the base.
Essential Care for Root Development
Pelargonium cuttings thrive in bright, indirect light, which provides the energy for root formation without the stress of intense, direct sun. A location that maintains a consistent temperature, ideally between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, will encourage faster root growth, though rooting can occur in cooler conditions over a longer period.
The most sensitive aspect of care is watering, as overwatering is the primary reason for failure due to stem rot. The rooting medium should be kept consistently moist but never waterlogged; a good initial watering to settle the medium is sufficient, followed by allowing the surface to dry slightly before watering again. Because the cutting has no roots, excessive water simply encourages the development of rot-causing fungi.
Successful rooting is indicated by the appearance of new growth at the stem tip, usually occurring after three to six weeks. A gentle tug on the cutting should also reveal resistance, confirming that roots have anchored the plant to the medium. Once a solid root system has formed, the new Pelargonium can be carefully transplanted into a larger, individual pot filled with a standard, well-draining potting mix.
Propagating Pelargoniums from Seed
While cuttings ensure genetic identicality, growing Pelargoniums from seed is a distinct method often reserved for species plants or for hybridizing to create new varieties. The seeds of many Pelargonium species possess a hard seed coat that inhibits water absorption, a condition known as dormancy, which must be overcome for successful germination. This is often achieved through scarification, a process that involves gently nicking or scratching the seed coat with a sharp object or sandpaper to allow moisture to penetrate.
Scarified seeds are typically sown in a sterile, fine-grained seed-starting mix and covered lightly with mix or vermiculite, as some types require light for germination. The seeds should be kept in a warm environment, with temperatures around 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and the medium kept constantly moist. Germination can occur relatively quickly, within two weeks for some, but may take longer depending on the species. Seed-grown plants will display genetic variation and will not be exact copies of the parent, often taking longer to mature and flower.