Propagating persimmon trees, whether the American species (Diospyros virginiana) or the Asian variety (Diospyros kaki), allows a gardener to cultivate specific traits or grow a tree affordably. These trees can be reproduced through sexual reproduction using seeds or through asexual methods like grafting and cuttings, which create clones of the parent plant. The method you choose depends on your goal: producing rootstocks or ensuring the new tree yields a specific, high-quality fruit. Understanding the distinct processes ensures you successfully generate a new, healthy tree.
Starting Persimmons from Seed
Growing a persimmon from a seed is the simplest method, though it is primarily used to produce rootstock rather than a fruit-bearing tree identical to the parent. Persimmon seeds possess a natural dormancy that must be broken through cold, moist stratification.
To initiate germination, clean seeds should be mixed into a slightly damp medium, such as peat moss or sand, and stored in a sealed plastic bag. This mixture is then placed in a refrigerator at temperatures between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit for 60 to 90 days. Keep the medium moist but not waterlogged, which would cause the seeds to rot.
Once stratification is complete, sow the seeds in the spring after the threat of hard frost has passed. Seedlings can take four to eight years before they are mature enough to produce fruit. The resulting tree is a genetic mix and may not bear fruit of the same quality or even the same sex as the parent tree.
Grafting Techniques for Reliable Fruit
Grafting is the preferred asexual method for commercial and home growers, as it guarantees the new tree will be genetically identical to the parent, ensuring predictable fruit quality. This technique involves joining a scion (a small section of wood from a desired variety) onto a compatible root system, known as the rootstock. For persimmons, American rootstock (Diospyros virginiana) is widely used because it is hardy and compatible with both American and Asian scion wood.
The whip-and-tongue graft is a common technique used when the diameter of the scion and the rootstock are nearly identical. This method creates a strong vascular connection by maximizing the surface area where the cambium layers meet. If the rootstock is considerably thicker than the scion, a bark graft or cleft graft is employed instead.
Timing is a precise element of persimmon grafting, which is generally done later in the season than other fruit trees. Scion wood is collected while the parent tree is dormant in winter and kept in cold storage until late spring or early summer. Grafting should only be performed once the rootstock has fully leafed out and is actively growing. Ideal callusing temperatures range from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, encouraging the tissues to heal and form a successful union.
Propagating via Hardwood Cuttings
Propagating persimmons using hardwood cuttings involves rooting a section of a dormant stem, an asexual method that produces a clone of the parent tree. This approach is generally less successful than grafting. Cuttings are best taken during the dormant season from one-year-old wood, ideally about 6 to 8 inches in length.
To promote root development, treat the base of the cutting with a high concentration of rooting hormone, specifically indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), often in concentrations of 4,000 to 6,000 parts per million. Place the treated cuttings into a well-draining rooting medium, such as a mixture of sand and peat. Applying bottom heat, maintaining the medium around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, can significantly improve the rooting percentage.
Establishing New Persimmon Trees
Once a persimmon has been successfully propagated, the next step is establishing it in its permanent location. Plant the young tree in a hole three times wider than the root ball to encourage root spread into the native soil. Ensure the crown of the tree or the graft union sits slightly above the surrounding soil level to account for settling and prevent moisture-related issues.
For the first year, consistent watering is necessary for the roots to establish themselves. The tree should receive deep watering once or twice a week, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out between applications.
A 2 to 3-inch layer of organic mulch spread around the base of the tree helps conserve soil moisture and regulate temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk itself. Young persimmons are sensitive to excessive nutrients, so focus on proper watering and mulching rather than applying fertilizer in the first growing season.