The ‘Silver Mound’ Artemisia (Artemisia schmidtiana ‘Silver Mound’) is a widely favored ornamental perennial, prized for its exceptionally fine-textured, silvery-gray foliage that forms a soft, cushion-like dome. This low-maintenance plant is grown primarily for its color and texture, which provides a striking contrast in garden beds and rock gardens. Propagation is used to multiply healthy stock or to rejuvenate mature clumps that begin to thin or die out in the center.
Step-by-Step Guide to Propagating by Division
Division is the most common method for propagating Silver Mound, especially when an established plant starts losing vigor or develops a dead spot at its core. The ideal time is in the early spring, just as new growth begins, or during the late fall after the foliage has died back. Watering the parent plant thoroughly the day before helps keep the root ball intact and reduces transplant shock.
Carefully dig up the entire plant using a garden fork to extract the fibrous root system. Once lifted, gently shake away excess soil to expose the roots and the crown’s growth points. A mature clump can often be pulled apart by hand, but for older or denser plants, a clean, sharp knife or spade may be necessary to slice through the crown.
Each new division must contain a healthy root system portion and at least one or two vigorous shoots. Discard any woody, brittle, or lifeless portions of the original clump, especially the older center parts. Immediately replant the new divisions at the same depth, spacing them adequately to allow for future growth and encourage a compact mound.
Step-by-Step Guide to Propagating by Stem Cuttings
Propagating Silver Mound via stem cuttings is effective for multiplying younger, healthy stock. This should be done during late spring or early summer when the plant is producing new, actively growing shoots. Select healthy, non-flowering stems that are still soft and flexible—known as softwood—and use a clean, sharp blade to take cuttings three to five inches in length. Make the final cut just below a leaf node, which is the point where the leaves emerge and where rooting naturally concentrates.
Carefully remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting to expose the nodes, as new roots will form here. To maximize success, dip the cut end into a rooting hormone powder or gel. This hormone stimulates root initiation. Plant the prepared cuttings into a sterile, well-draining rooting medium, such as a mix of perlite and peat moss or coarse sand, to prevent fungal issues and ensure good aeration.
Insert the cutting about one to two inches deep into the medium, ensuring the exposed nodes are buried. The rooting environment requires high humidity to keep the foliage from drying out before roots form. Achieve this by placing a clear plastic dome or bag over the container. Position the container in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light, avoiding harsh direct sun which can cause overheating.
Establishing New Plants and Long-Term Care
Successful establishment depends on providing consistent moisture and the correct growing conditions. Immediately after replanting divided clumps or potting up rooted cuttings, water them thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Shield newly transplanted divisions from intense midday sun for the first week to allow the root system time to recover and begin taking up water.
Cuttings that have developed a robust root system, typically after three to four weeks, should be gradually acclimated to lower humidity before transplanting. Silver Mound requires sharply draining soil, so overwatering during the establishment phase must be avoided to prevent root rot. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out completely between waterings for the first season.
The plant thrives best in full sun and relatively poor, lean soil. Rich soil or excessive fertilizer encourages weak, leggy growth that causes the dome shape to “flop” open in the center. To maintain the signature dense mound, prune the plant back by up to one-third in late spring or early summer. This encourages bushier growth and prevents the stems from splitting. Regular maintenance, including division every two to three years, ensures the perennial remains compact and vigorous.