The Tiger Lily, known botanically as Lilium lancifolium or Lilium tigrinum, is a striking perennial bulb appreciated for its recurved, orange-petaled flowers distinctively speckled with dark spots. Originating in East Asia, this hardy lily has become widely naturalized and is popular in gardens due to its vigorous growth and minimal care requirements. The Tiger Lily offers several reliable methods for multiplication.
Preparation and Timing for Propagation
The optimal time for Tiger Lily propagation is generally late summer or early fall, after flowering has finished and the foliage begins to yellow. Propagating during this period allows the new plant material to establish a root system before winter dormancy. While fall is ideal for methods involving the underground bulb, division can also be successfully performed in early spring before new growth emerges.
Before starting, gather necessary supplies, including a garden fork, trowel, and a clean, sharp knife or razor blade for scaling. All tools should be sterilized with an alcohol solution to prevent the transmission of latent viruses, such as the lily mosaic virus. A well-draining starting medium is also necessary, typically a mix of potting soil amended with sand, perlite, or vermiculite to ensure high porosity and prevent rot. Selecting a healthy, mature parent plant that shows no signs of disease or pest damage will increase the success rate.
Propagation Using Bulbils
The most characteristic and easiest method for multiplying Lilium lancifolium is through its bulbils, which are small, black, pea-sized aerial bulbs that form in the leaf axils along the stem. These miniature bulbs are clones of the parent plant and represent a convenient form of vegetative reproduction. Bulbils should be harvested in late summer or early autumn when they are plump, fully mature, and detach easily from the main stem with a gentle twist.
Once collected, the bulbils can be sown directly into a prepared nursery bed or in containers filled with a slightly acidic, well-draining soil mix. They should be planted approximately one-half to one inch deep, or just deep enough to be covered by the soil, and spaced about an inch apart. If the bulbil has small roots, plant the root end downward; otherwise, laying the bulbil on its side is effective. The planting medium should be kept consistently moist but not saturated. It generally takes two to three years of consistent growth before the bulblets develop into a mature size capable of producing a flower.
Propagation Through Scaling and Division
Division
Division is the simplest method, involving the separation of natural offsets or bulblets that form alongside the main bulb of a mature plant. This is best performed when the plant is dormant in the fall. Carefully dig up the entire clump and gently tease apart the individual bulbs, ensuring each new section has a healthy root system attached.
Scaling
Scaling is a more advanced technique that yields a larger number of new plants, based on the principle that the individual scales of a lily bulb are modified leaves capable of storing energy. To perform scaling, excavate a healthy, firm bulb, and carefully remove the outer one or two rows of plump scales with a gentle twist, ensuring each scale breaks away cleanly at the basal plate. The detached scales should be surface-sterilized, often by soaking them in a diluted alcohol or fungicide solution. Place the scales in a sealed plastic bag with a sterile, slightly damp medium like peat moss or vermiculite, and keep the bag in a dark place at room temperature for several weeks to encourage the formation of tiny bulblets at the base of the scales.
Establishing and Caring for New Plants
After propagation, the focus shifts to establishing the newly generated plants, which are susceptible to rot if conditions are too wet. For young bulblets from scaling or bulbils that have developed roots and foliage, transplanting them into a nursery bed or individual pots with well-draining soil is the next step. These small plants thrive in a location that receives full sun to partial shade, preferably with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day, though afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates.
Overwintering is important for these young bulbs, especially in colder regions. A layer of organic mulch, such as straw or chopped leaves, should be applied to protect them from temperature fluctuations. While the plants are establishing, the soil should be kept moderately moist, but watering frequency should be reduced during the winter dormancy period. A light application of a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer or compost in the spring will help bulk up the small bulbs and shorten the time it takes for them to reach a flowering size.