Kalanchoe species are popular succulent houseplants known for their thick, fleshy leaves and vibrant flowers. When the plant begins to stretch out, exhibiting sparse foliage and long, weak stems, it is often described as “leggy.” This condition compromises the plant’s structure and overall appearance. Restoring the plant’s compact, bushy shape requires targeted pruning.
Why Your Kalanchoe is Leggy
The primary reason for legginess in Kalanchoe is etiolation, the plant’s physiological response to insufficient light. When the light source is too distant or weak, the plant actively elongates its internodes—the space between leaf sets—to reach better light. This rapid growth results in stems that are thin, pale, and structurally weak.
This stretching maximizes light exposure but results in an unattractive, sparse growth habit. The plant allocates resources to stem length rather than leaf density. Once a Kalanchoe stem has etiolated, the stretched growth cannot be reversed; the cells will not shrink or compact even if lighting conditions improve. Pruning is the only effective method to encourage new, dense, and properly structured growth from dormant buds.
Pruning Technique
The best time to perform corrective pruning is typically after the Kalanchoe has finished its flowering cycle, allowing the plant to redirect its energy toward vegetative growth. Before making any cuts, always sterilize your tool, whether sharp scissors or pruning shears, with rubbing alcohol. This prevents the transfer of pathogens or fungal spores onto the fresh wound.
Locate a leaf node, which is the small bump or joint on the stem where a leaf or pair of leaves is attached. Make the cut approximately one-quarter inch directly above a healthy node, ensuring the remaining stump still contains this node. The latent bud at this node will be stimulated by the removal of the apical meristem, encouraging two new, compact stems to sprout in its place.
Do not hesitate to cut back severely etiolated stems by as much as one-third to one-half of their total length, focusing on removing the weakest, longest sections. The goal is to return the plant to a more pleasing, compact form.
After the pruning is complete, it is important to refrain from watering the plant for several days. Allowing the fresh cuts on the mother plant to dry out and form a protective callus significantly reduces the risk of fungal or bacterial infection from overly moist soil. Once the wound has properly dried and sealed, a thorough watering can be provided to support the subsequent flush of new growth.
Propagating the Cuttings
The healthy stem sections removed during pruning can be repurposed to generate entirely new plants. Begin by stripping the lower leaves from each cutting, exposing at least an inch or two of bare stem. This prepares the base for rooting and prevents the submerged leaves from rotting in the planting medium.
Lay the prepared cuttings aside in a dry, well-ventilated location out of direct sun for three to seven days. This callousing period allows the cut end to form a dry, protective layer of tissue, which minimizes the chances of rot when the stem is eventually placed into soil. Skipping this step often results in the cutting absorbing too much moisture and failing to root.
Once the callus has formed, the cutting is ready to be planted. Dip the calloused end into a powdered rooting hormone to expedite root development before inserting it into a propagation medium. Plant the stems in a specialized succulent or cactus potting soil, or a mixture amended heavily with perlite or coarse sand to ensure sharp drainage.
Resist the urge to water immediately after planting; the cuttings rely on their stored moisture for the first phase of root production. Wait until signs of new leaf growth or small roots are visible, typically after several weeks, before beginning a regular, light watering schedule. Overwatering is the most common cause of failure during this initial stage.
Preventing the Problem
To ensure the Kalanchoe maintains its desired dense structure, the long-term environmental conditions must be adjusted, specifically regarding light exposure. Move the plant to the brightest location available, ideally a south-facing window, where it can receive six to eight hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. Insufficient light is the primary driver of repeat legginess, and brighter placement is the most effective preventative measure.
To promote uniform growth and prevent the stems from bending toward a single light source, rotate the plant a quarter turn every few weeks. This practice ensures all sides of the plant receive equitable light distribution, leading to balanced and symmetrical foliage development.
Beyond light, practice proper succulent watering techniques, allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out completely between waterings. Fertilization should be kept minimal and only applied during the active growing seasons of spring and summer.