Putting an Elizabethan collar on a dog takes about a minute once you know the steps, but getting the fit and technique right makes the difference between a collar that stays on and one your dog shakes off (or one that’s so tight it causes discomfort). The process varies slightly depending on whether you have a hard plastic cone, a soft cone, or an inflatable collar, so here’s how to handle each type.
Getting the Right Size
Before you put anything on your dog, measure their neck circumference and match it to the collar’s size range. The cone should extend several inches past the tip of your dog’s nose. If it doesn’t, go up a size. A cone that’s too short defeats the purpose, since your dog will still be able to reach and lick whatever you’re trying to protect.
Assembling a Hard Plastic Cone
Hard plastic cones usually come flat and need to be formed into a cone shape before they go on your dog. There are two common fastening designs. Some have simple clips or snap tabs along one edge that click together once you overlap the sides into a cone. Others use a tab-and-slot system: small rectangular windows are cut into one edge, and slots are cut into the other. You overlap the edges so the windows sit on top of the slots, then fold the long tab down and weave it through the windows and slots, alternating over and under until the cone holds its shape.
Once the cone is assembled, slide it over your dog’s head with the wide opening facing forward. The narrow end should rest around the neck. Then thread your dog’s everyday collar (or a strip of bandage material) through the small loops on the inside rim of the cone. This anchors the cone to the collar so it can’t slide off, even if your dog paws at it.
Putting On a Soft Cone or Inflatable Collar
Soft fabric cones usually fasten with Velcro or clips around the neck. Wrap the cone around your dog’s neck, close the fastener, and then thread your dog’s regular collar through the interior loops to keep it anchored. Soft cones are more flexible, which makes eating and drinking easier, but some dogs can bend the sides and reach their wound. They also block more peripheral vision than clear plastic cones.
Inflatable collars (the donut-shaped ones) work differently. Inflate the collar first, then thread your dog’s regular collar through the loops on the inside of the inflatable ring. Put the regular collar on your dog as you normally would, and the inflatable ring rides on top of it. Tighten the drawstring so the ring is snug but not constricting. You can also tie the drawstring ends around the regular collar for extra security.
Checking the Fit
No matter which type of cone you’re using, the universal standard is the two-finger rule. Once the collar is secured, slide two fingers between the cone’s inner rim and your dog’s neck. They should fit comfortably. If you can’t get two fingers in, it’s too tight and could restrict breathing or cause irritation. If your whole hand fits through the gap, it’s too loose and your dog will pull it off.
Also check the length one more time while it’s on. Look at your dog from the side. The rim of the cone should extend past the nose by a few inches. If your dog can reach around the edge with their tongue, the cone is too short to do its job.
Choosing the Right Type for the Injury
The location of your dog’s wound or incision determines which type of collar will actually work. For surgical sites on the chest, belly, or back, a hard cone, soft cone, or even a recovery bodysuit will generally keep your dog from reaching the area. But for incisions on the legs, face, or tail, a rigid plastic cone is the most reliable option. It limits tongue reach and also prevents scratching, which inflatable collars and bodysuits don’t do as well.
Inflatable collars are particularly helpful after eye surgery because they don’t obstruct forward vision the way a plastic cone does. On the other hand, soft cones should not be used after eye surgery, since dogs can sometimes compress the flexible material against their face. Some dogs with hard-to-reach wounds or particularly creative problem-solving end up needing a combination, like a bodysuit plus a cone.
Training Your Dog Before Surgery
If you know surgery is coming, you can save your dog a lot of stress by introducing the cone days or even weeks in advance. This works best in short sessions of three to five minutes.
- Day one: Set the cone wide-side-down on the floor in a familiar room. Scatter treats around the outside rim. Let your dog approach on their own terms.
- Day two or three: Lay the cone on its side and put treats inside it. Let your dog nudge and move it to get the food. The goal is for the cone to feel like a game, not a trap.
- Next sessions: Hold the cone in your hand and offer a treat through the wide opening. Slowly move the treat toward the narrow end so your dog pushes their head partway in. Let them back out freely every time.
- Final stage: Encourage your dog to slip their whole head through. Hold the cone so it doesn’t catch on their ears or neck when they pull back. Once they’re comfortable with that, gently let the cone rest on their neck for a few seconds while feeding treats and giving praise.
If your dog freezes, backs away, or shows any sign of fear at any step, go back to the previous stage and use higher-value treats like cheese or peanut butter. Pairing the cone with lickable treats (cheese spread on a spoon, for example) works especially well because licking is a naturally calming behavior for dogs.
Helping Your Dog Adjust
Even a well-fitted cone changes how your dog experiences the world. The cone narrows their field of view and can muffle sounds, which means they may bump into furniture, walls, door frames, and your legs. A study published in the journal Animals found that owners commonly reported their dogs struggling to navigate stairs, fit through doorways, use dog doors, and sleep in crates while wearing a cone. Some dogs experienced genuine psychological distress from the collisions and spatial disorientation.
You can reduce these problems by clearing wide paths through your home, blocking off staircases if your dog doesn’t need to use them, and temporarily removing any furniture that creates tight squeezes. If your dog sleeps in a crate, check whether the cone fits through the crate door. You may need a larger crate or a different sleeping arrangement for the recovery period.
Eating and drinking can be tricky with a hard cone. The cone’s rim often scoops under the bowl and flips it. Raising the food and water bowls on a small platform or using heavier, wider bowls helps. Soft cones and inflatable collars cause fewer mealtime problems because they’re flexible enough to let your dog get their mouth down to the bowl. Food puzzles and stuffable toys that fit inside the cone’s opening can keep your dog mentally occupied and reduce the frustration of wearing the collar.
Nearly all dogs breathe normally in a cone. In the Animals study, 98% of owners reported no breathing difficulties. Still, keep an eye out during the first hour. If your dog is panting heavily, gagging, or seems unable to settle, recheck the fit and make sure the cone isn’t pressing against the throat.