A stripped screw feels like a dead end, but you can remove most of them using nothing more than household items and a manual screwdriver. The key is restoring grip between your tool and the damaged screw head. Here are the most effective methods, ranked roughly from easiest to most involved.
The Rubber Band Method
This is the first thing to try because it takes about five seconds. Place a wide rubber band flat over the stripped screw head, then press your screwdriver firmly into the screw through the rubber band. The rubber fills the gaps where the metal has been worn away, creating enough friction for the screwdriver to catch. Turn slowly with steady downward pressure.
Thicker, wider rubber bands work best because they fill more of the damaged recess. If you don’t have a rubber band handy, a piece of latex glove actually works even better since the material is thinner and conforms more tightly to the screw head. For screws that are really seized in place, a thin piece of leather between the screwdriver and the screw can provide even more grip than rubber.
Steel Wool or Abrasive Powder
If rubber isn’t giving you enough bite, steel wool works on the same principle but with more aggressive friction. Tear off a small tuft of steel wool and press it into the stripped screw head, then seat your screwdriver into it. The fine metal fibers mesh with both the screw and the screwdriver tip, preventing the tool from spinning out.
You can also sprinkle a pinch of abrasive powder or even fine sand onto the screw head before inserting your screwdriver. The grit particles act like tiny wedges that lock the two metal surfaces together. Apply firm downward pressure and turn slowly. This approach is especially useful when the screw head is only partially stripped and still has some shape left for the screwdriver to grab.
Commercial Friction Drops
Products like EZ Grip Friction Drops are designed specifically for this problem. Each drop contains thousands of microscopic blocks of a naturally occurring material that’s nearly as hard as diamond. These tiny blocks float in a liquid carrier, and when you press your screwdriver into the screw, they rapidly fill the gaps between the two surfaces and interlock under pressure. When you release pressure, they let go. Think of it as an on-demand grip enhancer. A single drop on the screw head before inserting your screwdriver can make a noticeable difference on moderately stripped screws.
The Hammer Tap Technique
Sometimes the problem isn’t just a stripped head. The screw may also be stuck due to rust, old thread-locking compound, or wood that has swelled around the threads. In these cases, a few light taps with a hammer can help.
Place your screwdriver into the screw head and give the back end of the handle a few firm taps with a hammer. This does two things: the impact drives the screwdriver tip deeper into whatever remains of the screw recess, and the vibration (sometimes called “shock release”) breaks the internal bonds holding the screw in place, whether that’s rust, dried adhesive, or compressed material around the threads. After tapping, try turning the screwdriver while maintaining strong downward pressure. You can combine this with the rubber band method for even better results.
Superglue a Screwdriver to the Screw
When the screw head is so badly stripped that nothing can grip it, you can bond a screwdriver directly to it. Put a tiny drop of superglue on the tip of an old screwdriver (one you don’t mind sacrificing), press it firmly onto the stripped screw head, and hold it perfectly still until the glue sets. This usually takes 30 to 60 seconds for a basic bond.
For a stronger version, apply the superglue and then sprinkle baking soda over the joint while still holding the screwdriver in place. The chemical reaction between superglue and baking soda creates an almost instant, rock-hard bond that’s significantly stronger than superglue alone. Once it’s set, turn the screwdriver slowly to back out the screw.
If you have more time, epoxy or red thread-locking compound (Loctite) also works. Epoxy creates a very strong bond but needs longer to cure properly, sometimes 15 to 30 minutes or more depending on the product. Red Loctite sets faster and is popular among phone and electronics repair technicians who deal with tiny stripped screws regularly. For larger screws, you can glue a bigger screwdriver bit onto the head to get more leverage.
Cut a New Slot With a Hacksaw
If the screw head is accessible and sits above the surface, you can create a brand-new slot for a flathead screwdriver. Use a hacksaw, rotary tool, or even a sturdy file to cut a single straight groove across the top of the screw head. The groove only needs to be deep enough for a flathead screwdriver blade to seat into, roughly one to two millimeters. Once you have a clean slot, insert a flathead screwdriver and turn the screw out normally.
This method works best on larger screws where you have room to cut. It’s not practical for tiny screws in electronics or tight spaces where a saw blade can’t reach.
Use Pliers or Locking Pliers
When any part of the screw head protrudes above the surface, you can skip the screwdriver entirely. Grip the screw head with needle-nose pliers or, better yet, locking pliers (Vise-Grips). Locking pliers clamp down and stay locked, so you can focus entirely on turning. Grip the edges of the screw head as tightly as possible and rotate counterclockwise. This brute-force approach bypasses the stripped recess completely.
If the screw head is flush with the surface and there’s nothing to grab, you can sometimes pry it up slightly first. Slide a thin flathead screwdriver or a butter knife under one edge of the head and lever it up just enough to give your pliers something to clamp onto.
Heat the Screw to Break Its Grip
Screws held in place with thread-locking adhesive or surrounded by corrosion sometimes need heat before any removal method will work. A soldering iron, lighter, or heat gun aimed at the screw head for 15 to 30 seconds can soften adhesive and cause the metal to expand slightly, breaking the seal between the screw and the surrounding material.
Be cautious with this approach. On electronics or plastic housings, excessive heat causes permanent damage. For phone or laptop screws, technicians typically keep temperatures around 70 to 90 degrees Celsius, which is enough to soften adhesive without warping components. On metal-to-metal applications like automotive or furniture hardware, you can go higher. After heating, let the screw cool for a few seconds (the contraction as it cools can further loosen the bond), then try one of the grip methods above.
Choosing the Right Method
- Partially stripped screw: Start with a rubber band, steel wool, or friction drops. These are fast and work well when the screwdriver can still partially seat.
- Completely rounded-out head: Superglue a screwdriver to it, or cut a new slot if the screw is large enough.
- Screw head above the surface: Go straight to locking pliers.
- Stuck and stripped: Combine heat or hammer taps with one of the grip-enhancing methods.
- Tiny screws in electronics: Superglue with baking soda or red Loctite on a precision bit is the most reliable approach.
In most cases, you’ll solve the problem with one of the first three methods on this list. The rubber band trick alone handles a surprising number of stripped screws if you press down hard enough and turn slowly. Save the adhesive and cutting methods for screws that have been completely destroyed.