To safely pick up a dog with IVDD, you need to keep their spine level and fully supported from underneath, avoiding any bending, twisting, or sagging of the back. This means using both hands (or both arms for larger dogs) to create a flat, stable platform under the chest and hindquarters simultaneously. Getting this right matters because a herniated disc is already pressing on the spinal cord, and any additional movement or compression can worsen neurological damage or cause severe pain.
Why Lifting Technique Matters With IVDD
In IVDD, the cushioning disc between two vertebrae has ruptured or bulged into the spinal canal, putting pressure on the delicate spinal cord. That pressure is what causes symptoms ranging from pain and wobbliness to full hind-leg paralysis. When you pick your dog up incorrectly, you can shift the spine enough to push more disc material into the canal or increase the compression that’s already there. Cornell University’s veterinary program notes that even mild herniation can cause acute paralysis, and the longer the spinal cord stays compressed, the less likely it is to fully recover.
This is why every single lift counts during recovery, whether your dog had surgery or is on conservative (crate rest) management. You’ll be lifting your dog multiple times a day for bathroom breaks, vet visits, and repositioning, so building a consistent, safe technique protects them over weeks of healing.
The Correct Way to Lift a Small or Medium Dog
Stand or kneel beside your dog so you’re facing their side. Slide one hand or forearm under their chest, just behind the front legs. At the same time, slide your other hand or forearm under their belly and hindquarters, in front of the back legs. The goal is to scoop them up like a tray so their entire torso is supported and their spine stays in a neutral, horizontal position.
Lift smoothly and slowly. Keep the dog close to your body once they’re up, which gives you more control and prevents them from squirming or jumping. When you set them down, reverse the process: lower them gently until all four paws are flat on the ground before releasing your support. Never let them jump out of your arms.
A few things to avoid:
- Picking up under the armpits alone. This lets the back half of the body dangle, pulling the spine into a curve and stressing the injured disc.
- Grabbing by the scruff or collar. The neck is a vulnerable area, especially if the herniation is in the cervical (neck) spine.
- Letting the spine sag or arch. If any part of the back droops between your hands, reposition so the whole spine is level.
Lifting a Large or Heavy Dog
For dogs over about 30 to 40 pounds, the same principle applies but the mechanics change because you can’t easily cradle them. You’ll likely need a second person or an assistive device.
With two people, one person supports the chest and front legs while the other supports the abdomen and hindquarters. Both lift at the same time, keeping the dog level between them. Think of it like carrying a plank: the spine should stay straight and flat throughout.
If you’re alone, a rigid surface can help. Slide your dog onto a firm board, a stiff piece of cardboard, or even an ironing board to act as a makeshift stretcher. This keeps the spine immobilized during the move. For daily bathroom trips, though, a stretcher isn’t always practical. That’s where slings and harnesses become essential.
Slings and Harnesses
A hindquarter sling supports your dog’s back end while they stand or walk on their front legs. If you don’t have a commercial sling yet, a folded towel or scarf looped under the belly in front of the hind legs works as a temporary solution. Pass both ends up and hold them like handles to provide gentle upward support.
For longer-term use, a purpose-built harness system is worth the investment. The Help ‘Em Up harness, for example, has short, strong handles over the hips (like suitcase handles) that give precise control of the hindquarters, paired with a separate chest harness. This style works especially well for large and tall breeds. For very small dogs like dachshunds, the short handles can be harder to use, so a simple fabric sling or towel is often more practical.
When using any sling, always keep your dog on a leash attached to a chest harness rather than a collar. The leash attachment on a harness sits farther back, distributing weight more evenly. More importantly, it protects the neck, which is especially critical if your dog loses balance or lurches forward.
Getting Your Dog Outside for Bathroom Breaks
During IVDD recovery, your dog should go outside on a short leash at least three times a day for toileting. The routine is: carry them from the crate to the door, carry them outside to a suitable patch of ground, then set them down with all four paws flat. Let them have a few minutes of slow, supported walking on the leash before picking them up and carrying them back.
No running, no jumping, no steps or stairs. If there are stairs between your dog and the yard, you carry them over those stairs every time. If your dog can’t stand unsupported yet, use your hands or a hindquarter sling to help them hold a standing position while they go to the bathroom. This can be frustrating for both of you, but over days to weeks, rehabilitation exercises will help them regain the ability to stand on their own.
Try to keep the toileting routine as normal and predictable as possible. Dogs recovering from IVDD are often anxious and in pain. A consistent schedule (same times, same spot, same process) reduces their stress.
Signs Your Dog Is in Too Much Pain to Be Lifted
Even with perfect technique, some moments are worse than others. Watch for these warning signs during or after lifting:
- Crying out or yelping when you touch or move them
- Trembling, heavy panting, or restlessness that doesn’t settle
- Flinching, breath-holding, or lip-licking when you position your hands (these are subtle pain signals many owners miss)
- Sudden inability to walk or dragging of the hind legs that wasn’t present before
- Loss of bladder or bowel control
If your dog suddenly loses the ability to walk, drags their legs, or loses bladder control, that’s an emergency. These signs suggest the spinal cord compression has worsened, and surgical intervention may be needed quickly. The window for the best surgical outcomes narrows the longer compression continues.
Setting Up Your Home to Minimize Lifting
The fewer times you need to pick your dog up, the lower the risk of an accidental twist or jolt. A few environmental changes can make a big difference during recovery.
Place the crate or recovery pen on the same floor as the door your dog will use for bathroom breaks. Put carpet runners or yoga mats on any slick flooring between the crate and the door, because a dog with weak hind legs will slip on tile or hardwood, and catching a slipping dog often means grabbing them in a way that’s hard on the spine. Block off stairs with baby gates. If your dog’s crate is in a quiet, slightly sheltered spot (near a wall, away from household traffic), they’ll feel more secure and rest more calmly, which means less restless movement that requires you to intervene.
Keep everything your dog needs within the recovery area: water, food, a comfortable pad with good traction. The less reason they have to try to move on their own, the better. Dogs in pain often feel vulnerable and will try to hide behind furniture or under beds if given the chance, so a well-set-up crate or pen keeps them contained and safe between bathroom trips.

