The String of Dolphins, scientifically known as Curio x peregrinus, is a unique succulent hybrid prized for its trailing stems and leaves shaped like miniature jumping dolphins. Like many succulents, this plant stores water in its foliage, making it highly susceptible to overwatering. Overwatering is the primary cause of its decline and death in cultivation because the plant’s root system cannot tolerate prolonged exposure to saturated soil.
Identifying the Signs of Overwatering
A distressed String of Dolphins will exhibit several distinct symptoms that signal excessive moisture. The leaves are the most telling sign; they will begin to appear translucent or take on a pale, sickly yellow hue instead of their normal vibrant green color. These leaves will often feel mushy to the touch, a clear distinction from the slightly deflated wrinkles that indicate underwatering.
Leaves may also drop from the stems with only the slightest touch or movement. The stems themselves might begin to yellow near the soil line, indicating that rot is progressing upward from the roots. The potting medium will remain visibly dark and heavy, feeling wet days after the last watering, signaling inadequate drainage.
Emergency Triage for Saturated Roots
Once overwatering is confirmed, immediate action is necessary to halt the damage. Gently remove the entire plant from its container to assess the extent of the saturation. Carefully remove as much wet, heavy soil from the root ball as possible, without causing undue damage to the remaining healthy roots.
Lay the entire root ball and trailing stems on an absorbent material, such as newspaper or paper towels, for a period of 24 to 48 hours. This process allows the exposed roots and clinging soil to dry out significantly through absorption and air circulation. If the pot is to be reused, clean it thoroughly and allow it to dry completely to eliminate fungal spores or bacteria before replanting.
Addressing Root Rot and Salvaging Cuttings
Prolonged saturation leads to root rot, characterized by roots that are dark brown or black, mushy, and often emit a foul odor. If the roots exhibit these characteristics, they must be pruned away using sterilized scissors or a sharp knife. When pruning, cut back until you reach clean, white, healthy root or stem tissue. Stem rot can travel upward, so examine the stems carefully and cut them back until the cross-section reveals only healthy, uncompromised tissue.
Salvaging Cuttings
If the damage is too extensive and the main root system cannot be saved, take healthy stem cuttings for propagation. Select firm, green portions of the trailing stems that are free of discoloration or mushy spots. Cut these healthy sections, ensuring each piece is at least a few inches long.
Allow the cut ends to dry out and form a protective callus over the wound for two to three days. These calloused cuttings can then be laid on top of fresh, well-draining succulent soil to establish new roots.
Establishing a Successful Watering Routine
To prevent future overwatering crises, a successful routine must mimic the plant’s native arid environment. The most effective approach is the “soak and dry” method, which involves thoroughly saturating the soil until water drains out of the bottom. Afterward, allow the potting medium to dry out completely before watering again.
To accurately gauge when to water, insert a finger or a moisture meter at least two inches deep into the soil; water should only be applied when the soil is completely dry at this depth. Factors like the type of pot (terracotta dries faster than glazed ceramic) and environmental conditions influence the frequency. Watering will be more frequent during the active growing seasons of spring and summer, but significantly reduced in the cooler, dormant months of fall and winter.