You can screw into concrete without a hammer drill by using a standard rotary drill fitted with a carbide-tipped masonry bit. It takes more time and patience than a hammer drill, but for light-duty jobs like mounting shelves, securing brackets, or hanging items on a concrete wall, a regular drill gets the job done.
Why a Standard Drill Can Work
A hammer drill combines rotation with a rapid hammering action that pulverizes concrete as it spins. A standard rotary drill only spins. That means it relies entirely on the cutting edge of the bit and steady pressure from you to grind through the material. This works, but it’s slower, generates more heat, and wears bits faster. For holes under about 1/4 inch in diameter and a couple of inches deep, a regular drill with the right bit is perfectly adequate.
The limits are real, though. If you’re drilling into poured structural concrete (the dense gray stuff in basement walls and foundations), expect slow going. Concrete block, mortar joints, and brick are softer and easier to penetrate with a standard drill. For anything requiring many holes or deep embedment in hard concrete, renting a hammer drill for $40 to $50 a day will save you time and frustration.
Choosing the Right Masonry Bit
The bit matters more than the drill. You need a carbide-tipped masonry bit rated for rotary use. These are widely available at any hardware store and come in sizes ranging from 5/32 inch up to 1/2 inch. Bosch makes a “MultiConstruction” line in alloy steel specifically designed for rotary drills and impact drivers, available in common sizes like 5/32, 1/4, and 3/16 inch. Carbide tips stay sharp far longer than standard steel when grinding against concrete.
Match the bit diameter to your fastener. For 3/16-inch concrete screws (like Tapcons), you need a 5/32-inch pilot hole. For 1/4-inch concrete screws, use a 3/16-inch bit. Getting this wrong in either direction means the screw won’t grip properly or the hole will crack. The screw packaging will always list the required pilot hole size.
How to Drill the Hole
Mark your hole location and, if possible, use a center punch or a nail to create a small divot so the bit doesn’t wander when you start. Set your drill to its lowest speed setting and highest torque. Concrete drilling is not about speed.
Begin with the bit perpendicular to the surface and apply steady, light pressure. Don’t force the drill or lean your body weight into it. Forcing the bit generates excessive heat and can snap the tip. Let the carbide do the cutting. You’ll feel the bit grinding forward slowly, producing fine powder as it goes.
Every 15 to 20 seconds, pull the bit out of the hole to clear accumulated dust. Concrete powder packs tightly in the hole and creates friction that overheats the bit and stalls your progress. Withdrawing the bit periodically lets dust escape and allows air to cool the cutting edge. If the bit feels hot to the touch after you pull it out, set it down for 30 seconds before continuing. Pushing through with an overheated bit dulls the carbide and can ruin it permanently.
For deeper holes, a can of compressed air or a simple bulb blower helps clear packed dust from the bottom. You can also use a vacuum nozzle held near the hole opening while drilling, which keeps airborne silica dust out of your lungs as a bonus.
Drill the hole at least 1/4 inch deeper than the length of fastener you plan to embed. That extra space gives dust somewhere to settle so the screw can seat fully.
Picking the Right Fastener
Concrete Screws
Self-tapping concrete screws (Tapcon is the most common brand) cut their own threads directly into the concrete as you drive them in. They come in 3/16-inch and 1/4-inch diameters with either hex or Phillips heads. These provide strong holding power and are removable, which makes them a popular choice for most DIY concrete fastening. One thing to know: the manufacturer’s instructions specify using a hammer drill for the pilot hole. With a standard rotary drill and a sharp carbide bit, you can create the same hole. It just takes longer. The screw doesn’t know or care what type of drill made the hole.
Drive concrete screws with a drill or impact driver set to moderate torque. Over-tightening strips the threads you just cut into the concrete, and once that happens, the screw won’t hold. Stop as soon as the head is snug against the surface or bracket you’re mounting.
Plastic Expansion Anchors
For lighter loads, plastic expansion anchors (sometimes called conical anchors) are forgiving and easy to use. You drill a hole, typically 1/4 inch for #10 or #12 anchors, tap the plastic sleeve in with a regular hammer, then drive a wood screw into the sleeve. As the screw enters, the plastic expands against the walls of the hole and locks in place. These are ideal for hanging pictures, light fixtures, smoke detectors, or cable clips on concrete. They don’t hold as much weight as concrete screws, but they require less precision and less drilling depth.
Adhesive Anchors
If you’d rather skip mechanical expansion altogether, adhesive anchoring systems use epoxy or chemical resin squeezed into a drilled hole. You insert a threaded rod or bolt, let it cure, and the bond is often stronger than the concrete itself. This approach works well when you can’t risk cracking the concrete with expansion pressure, such as near an edge. Cure times range from a few minutes to several hours depending on the product and temperature.
Tips That Save Time and Frustration
- Start small and step up. If your final hole needs to be 3/16 inch, start with a 1/8-inch bit to create a pilot path, then switch to the larger bit. The smaller bit penetrates faster and gives the larger bit a guide to follow.
- Use water for cooling. A spray bottle with water, dripped into the hole periodically, reduces friction and extends bit life significantly. Keep the drill’s motor and cord away from the water.
- Drill into mortar joints when possible. If you’re working with a concrete block wall, aiming for the mortar between blocks is much easier to drill through with a standard drill. Mortar is softer than the block itself.
- Watch for aggregate. Concrete contains small rocks (aggregate). If your bit suddenly stops making progress, you’ve likely hit a piece of gravel. Pull the bit out, reinsert it, and try pressing from a very slightly different angle to work past it. A masonry nail tapped into the hole with a hammer can also help break up stubborn aggregate.
- Blow out the hole before fastening. After drilling, use compressed air or a vacuum to clean all dust from the hole. Packed dust at the bottom prevents the screw from reaching full depth, and loose dust along the walls reduces holding strength.
When a Standard Drill Won’t Cut It
If you’re drilling more than about six holes, working with concrete thicker than 2 inches, or need holes larger than 1/4 inch, a standard drill becomes impractical. You’ll burn through bits, overheat the motor, and spend far longer than the job warrants. Hammer drills are available to rent at most home improvement stores, and many cordless drill kits now include a hammer mode. For a one-time project, renting is almost always cheaper than replacing worn-out masonry bits and dealing with a sore arm.