Raccoons are case skinned, meaning the pelt is removed in one piece like pulling off a sock, starting from the hind legs and working toward the head. The process takes about 20 to 30 minutes once you’re comfortable with it, and the goal is to separate the hide from the carcass without cutting through the fur or leaving excessive flesh on the pelt. Before you start, there are safety precautions and legal requirements worth knowing.
Licensing and Legal Requirements
Most states require specific licenses before you can legally harvest or sell raccoon pelts. In Louisiana, for example, selling raccoon pelts or carcasses requires a valid trapper’s license on top of a basic hunting license, even if the raccoon was taken during an open hunting season. Shipping raw furs out of state may require an official shipping tag from your state wildlife agency. Seasons, bag limits, and licensing rules vary significantly by state, so check your local fish and wildlife regulations before processing any animal.
Safety Precautions
Raccoons carry several diseases that can spread to humans during handling. Rabies is the most well-known risk. Raccoons are the most frequently reported rabid animal species in the United States, particularly in the eastern and southeastern states. If the animal you’re processing appeared sick, was acting abnormally, or bit or scratched you, seek medical evaluation.
Raccoon roundworm (Baylisascaris) is another serious concern. This intestinal parasite sheds eggs in raccoon feces, and if accidentally swallowed, the larvae can migrate into human organs and cause severe illness. Leptospirosis, a bacterial infection spread through urine, is also present in raccoon populations.
Wear rubber or nitrile gloves throughout the entire skinning process. Eye protection is a good idea, especially when working near the gut cavity. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated space. Wash your hands and forearms thoroughly with soap and water when finished, and disinfect your tools and work surface. Avoid touching your face while working.
Tools You’ll Need
- Skinning knife: A short, sharp blade with a slight curve works best. You want control more than reach.
- Gambrel: A metal or wooden hanger that holds the animal by the hind legs at a comfortable working height.
- Tail stripper or pliers: Used to pull the tailbone out of the tail skin in one piece.
- Fleshing knife or beam: For removing fat and membrane from the hide after skinning.
- Stretching board: A tapered wooden or wire form used to dry the pelt in the correct shape.
Starting the Cuts
Hang the raccoon by its hind legs from a gambrel, belly facing you. Make your first cut on the inside of one hind leg, running from the foot pad up to the vent (the area around the anus). Repeat on the other hind leg. Connect these two cuts across the vent, being careful not to puncture the intestines beneath. Cut around each hind foot at the ankle joint so the pelt separates cleanly from the feet.
Next, cut around the base of the tail. Use your tail stripper or a pair of pliers to grip the tailbone firmly, then pull it straight out of the tail skin. This takes a solid grip and steady pressure. If the tailbone breaks partway, you can finish removing it with your knife, but a clean pull is faster and leaves the tail skin intact.
Pulling the Pelt Down
With the hind legs and tail free, begin pulling the skin downward toward the head. Use your knife to separate any connective tissue or fat that resists, but let gravity and steady pulling do most of the work. The less knife work you use, the fewer accidental nicks you’ll make in the hide. Keep the blade angled toward the carcass rather than toward the fur side to avoid cutting through the pelt.
When you reach the front legs, work each one free by pushing the leg through from the inside while pulling the skin down over it, similar to turning a sleeve inside out. Cut around each front foot at the ankle. Raccoons have small scent glands located on their legs. If you plan to eat the meat, you’ll want to locate and remove these glands from the carcass to avoid off flavors, but for skinning purposes, simply note that the tissue near these glands can have a strong odor.
Continue pulling the pelt down over the shoulders and neck toward the head. This section usually comes off with less resistance than the midsection.
Working Around the Head
The head is the trickiest part. Slow down here. Carefully cut around the ears at their base, staying as close to the skull as possible so the ear cartilage stays attached to the pelt. Cut around each eye socket, again keeping your blade tight against the bone. Work forward to the nose and lips, cutting the cartilage at the very tip of the nose to leave the nose leather on the pelt. The lips need similar close work to keep them intact on the hide.
How much care you take with the head depends on what you’re doing with the pelt. If it’s going on a stretcher for the fur market, the ears, eyes, and nose need to be intact and undamaged. If you’re processing it for personal use or meat, you can be less precise.
Fleshing the Pelt
Once the skin is completely removed, you’ll need to flesh it, which means scraping away any fat, meat, or membrane still clinging to the leather side. Place the pelt fur-side-down over a fleshing beam (a smooth, rounded board) and use a fleshing knife or the back of your skinning blade to push the excess tissue away. Work from the center outward, always pushing away from you. Fat left on the pelt will cause it to spoil or develop grease burn, which stains the fur and reduces its value.
Pay extra attention to the belly and leg areas where fat deposits tend to be heaviest. The back and sides are usually leaner and come clean more easily.
Stretching and Drying
Slide the fleshed pelt onto a stretching board, fur side in and leather side out. The board should match the natural proportions of the pelt without overstretching it. Pull the hide smooth and tack or pin the edges if needed to prevent curling. Make sure the tail lays flat and the legs are positioned symmetrically.
Dry the pelt in a cool, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. A temperature around 4 to 10 degrees Celsius (roughly 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit) is ideal for preventing bacterial growth and fur slip, which is when hair loosens and falls out of the hide. Avoid using heat to speed up drying, as it can cook the proteins in the skin and make it brittle. A fan on low in a cool garage or shed works well. Drying typically takes several days depending on humidity and airflow.
Once the pelt is fully dry and stiff, remove it from the stretcher. If you’re storing it before sale, keep it in a cool, dry location with good air circulation. Frozen storage works for longer periods. Pelts headed for market should be clean, symmetrical, and free of cuts or grease stains.