Tarping a flatbed load means covering your cargo with a heavy vinyl tarp, pulling it tight over all sides, and securing it with bungees or straps so nothing is exposed to weather or wind during transit. The process is physically demanding, especially with full-size lumber tarps that can weigh 120 pounds, but a consistent method makes it faster, safer, and less likely to result in torn tarps or damaged freight.
Choose the Right Tarp for Your Load
Flatbed tarps come in two main styles, and picking the wrong one creates problems before you even start. Steel tarps are shorter in width because steel coils, plate, and similar cargo sit low on the deck. A common steel tarp measures 16 by 27 feet or 16 by 18 feet. Lumber tarps are wider, with side drops of 4 to 8 feet that hang down to cover tall, bulky loads. A standard 8-foot drop lumber tarp runs about 24 by 27 feet and weighs around 120 pounds in heavy-duty 18-ounce vinyl.
Despite the names, the deciding factor is load height, not what you’re hauling. A low-profile load of bundled pipe works fine under a steel tarp. A tall stack of drywall or palletized freight needs a lumber tarp with enough drop to reach the trailer rails on both sides. Some lumber tarps also include end flaps for full enclosure when the cargo needs complete water protection.
Lighter 14-ounce tarps exist and are easier to handle solo, but they wear out faster on rough-edged cargo like steel banding or lumber corners. If you’re regularly hauling loads with sharp edges, the heavier 18-ounce vinyl pays for itself in longevity.
Prepare the Load Before Tarping
Tarping goes on after the load is fully secured with straps or chains, not before. Your tiedowns need to meet federal requirements: they must handle forces equivalent to 0.8g of forward deceleration and 0.5g of lateral or rearward acceleration. In plain terms, the load has to stay put under hard braking, swerving, or getting rear-ended.
Before the tarp goes on, place edge protectors (sometimes called V-boards) on any corners or sharp edges where straps cross the cargo. These protect both your straps and your tarp from cuts and abrasion. For tall loads, an extendable placement tool lets you position edge protectors up to 8 feet high without climbing on top of the freight. Walk the perimeter of the load and check that nothing is poking out that could puncture the tarp from underneath.
Get the Tarp on Top of the Load
This is the hardest part of the job. A 120-pound tarp is awkward to lift, and getting it on top of a load that’s 8 or 9 feet high takes planning.
If you’re at a shipper’s facility, use a forklift. Have the operator set the folded tarp on top of the load centered front to back. This is the fastest, safest method and saves your back. When no forklift is available, get help from another driver or dock worker. Two people can muscle a tarp up a load much more safely than one person trying to throw it.
If you’re working alone without equipment, the common technique is to fold the tarp into a tight roll, climb up using the rear of the trailer, and pull it up after you. Use three points of contact when climbing on and off the trailer: two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand, at all times. Never jump down from the deck or from on top of the load.
Unfold and Position the Tarp
Once the tarp is on top of the load, unfold it so the front edge lines up with the front of the cargo (or overlaps the headboard slightly for wind protection). Before pulling the tarp over the sides, lift and lower it a few times to push air underneath. This pocket of air acts like a cushion that lets the tarp slide more easily as you pull it into position. Without it, the tarp grips the cargo surface and fights you the whole way.
Stand with your feet spread wide for balance. Grip the tarp with both hands at about waist height, close to your body, and pull toward yourself rather than reaching out and yanking. Use your legs and body weight, not just your arms. This technique matters because you’ll repeat this motion dozens of times per tarp, and poor form leads to shoulder and back injuries over a career of tarping.
Work the tarp down one side at a time. Pull the near side down first, then walk around to the far side and pull it down evenly. The goal is an equal amount of material hanging on both sides with the tarp centered on the load. If your tarp has end flaps, fold them down over the front and rear of the cargo after the sides are positioned.
Secure the Tarp Tightly
Start by securing the four corners. This stabilizes the tarp and keeps it from shifting while you work the rest of the perimeter. Use heavy-duty bungee cords or rubber tarp straps hooked through the tarp’s D-rings or grommets and attached to the trailer’s stake pockets or rail holes.
After the corners, work your way along each side, hooking bungees every 2 to 3 feet. Pull each one tight enough that the tarp sits snug against the load with no loose fabric. Loose sections act like sails at highway speed, catching wind and creating drag that can tear grommets right out of the tarp or pull the whole thing loose. A crisscross pattern with your bungees or straps distributes tension more evenly and reduces flapping.
Tuck any excess tarp material neatly under the load or fold it flat against the side. Bunched-up folds catch wind and work themselves loose over miles. The cleaner your tuck, the longer the tarp stays in place.
Tarping in Wind
Wind is the single biggest frustration when tarping. A gust can catch an unfolded tarp like a parachute and rip it out of your hands or pull you off balance on top of the load.
When you’re dealing with wind, keep the tarp folded as long as possible and only unfold the section you’re actively securing. Secure the windward side first so the wind pushes the tarp onto the load rather than peeling it away. Add extra tie-down points along the edges to reduce the surface area exposed to gusts. Elastic straps absorb some of the wind’s force and put less strain on grommets than rigid fasteners. If conditions are severe, wait it out. A torn tarp costs far more in time and money than a 30-minute delay.
Prevent Tarp Damage on the Road
Most tarp damage comes from three sources: sharp cargo edges, road vibration, and flapping. Edge protectors handle the first problem. For vibration, make sure the tarp isn’t resting directly on any banding, bolt heads, or rough surfaces without padding. Even a piece of cardboard between a sharp edge and the tarp can prevent a hole.
Flapping is the silent killer of tarps. At 65 miles per hour, a loose section of vinyl slapping against itself or the load will wear through in a matter of hours. Check your tarp at every fuel stop during the first trip with a new load. Retighten any bungees that have stretched or shifted.
When a tarp does tear, small holes can be field-repaired with vinyl cement and a heat patch, or in a pinch, heavy-duty duct tape on both sides of the tear. For a proper repair, clean the area with alcohol, apply vinyl cement, press a patch of matching material over the damage, and let it cure. A sewing awl with heavy-duty thread adds reinforcement to patches on high-stress areas near grommets. Catching small tears early prevents them from becoming full splits that retire the tarp.
What Federal Regulations Require
FMCSA regulations under 49 CFR Part 393 Subpart I require that cargo on commercial vehicles be secured to prevent it from “leaking, spilling, blowing, or falling” from the vehicle. Tarping isn’t explicitly mandated for every load, but if your cargo includes loose material, dust, or anything that could blow off, you’re required to contain it. Many shippers also require tarping as a condition of the load to protect freight from water damage, and failing to tarp when required can result in refused deliveries and back-charges.
As for fall protection while tarping, OSHA standards require fall protection at heights of 6 feet or more on walking and working surfaces, but vehicles and trailers are specifically excluded from that definition. In practical terms, there’s no federal requirement for fall protection while tarping because no feasible system exists for this type of work. That doesn’t mean falls aren’t dangerous. They’re one of the most common injuries in flatbed trucking. Move deliberately, maintain three points of contact, and never rush on top of a load.