Apricot kernel oil is a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that works well as a scalp treatment, pre-wash conditioner, or daily finishing oil for shine and frizz control. Its thin texture makes it especially useful for fine hair and low-porosity hair types that get weighed down by heavier oils like coconut or castor. Here’s how to use it effectively and what it actually does for your hair.
What Makes Apricot Oil Good for Hair
Apricot kernel oil is roughly 71% oleic acid and 22% linoleic acid, with small amounts of palmitic and stearic acids. That composition matters because oleic acid penetrates the hair shaft easily, softening and conditioning from the inside. Linoleic acid, meanwhile, plays a protective role on the surface, helping seal moisture in and smooth the cuticle layer.
Linoleic acid also has direct relevance to hair growth. It stimulates the proliferation of dermal papilla cells, the signaling cells at the base of each hair follicle that control the growth cycle. In mouse studies, topical application of linoleic acid-rich oils promoted the transition of hair follicles into their active growth phase and increased expression of growth factors like VEGF and IGF-1, both of which support blood flow to the follicle and healthy cell turnover. Linoleic acid also inhibits 5-alpha-reductase, the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into the compound linked to pattern hair loss.
Beyond these growth-related properties, apricot oil has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects on the scalp. In a rat model of seborrheic dermatitis, apricot kernel oil restored the surface area of sebaceous glands and hair follicles that had been damaged by inflammation. It did this partly by blocking enzymes that break down the tissue surrounding hair follicles, allowing scalp cells to differentiate normally and maintain healthy gland function.
Three Ways to Apply It
Pre-Wash Treatment (Weekly)
This is the most effective method for deep conditioning. Work 4 to 6 drops through dry hair, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends. Leave it on for 20 minutes, then shampoo as normal. The oil penetrates best on dry hair because water on the surface creates a barrier. If your hair is particularly dry or damaged, you can leave it on for up to an hour or overnight with a silk or satin wrap to protect your pillow.
Scalp Massage (Occasional)
For a flaky, itchy, or tight scalp, warm 1 to 2 drops between your fingertips and massage directly onto dry patches or across the entire scalp using small circular motions. Spend about two to three minutes massaging, which also increases blood circulation to the follicles. Leave the oil on for at least 15 minutes before washing. If you’re dealing with persistent scalp irritation, doing this once or twice a week can help, since the oil’s anti-inflammatory properties work best with consistent use.
Finishing Oil (Daily)
Smooth a single drop between your palms and lightly coat your mid-lengths and ends after styling. This tames frizz, adds shine, and protects against environmental damage without the heavy, greasy look you get from thicker oils. One drop is genuinely enough for most hair lengths. Start with less than you think you need, because you can always add more, but removing excess oil means rewashing.
Best Hair Types for Apricot Oil
Apricot oil absorbs quickly and doesn’t leave a film, which makes it a particularly good match for fine hair that gets limp and oily-looking from heavier products. It’s also well suited to low-porosity hair, the type that resists absorbing moisture because its cuticle layer lies flat and tight. Heavier oils like coconut or castor tend to sit on the surface of low-porosity hair rather than penetrating, but apricot oil’s lighter molecular structure lets it slip through more easily.
If you have high-porosity hair (typically chemically treated, heat-damaged, or naturally coarse and curly), apricot oil can still work as a finishing product or in a blend. But you’ll likely get better deep conditioning results from thicker oils like castor or avocado that can fill the gaps in a raised, damaged cuticle. You can also layer apricot oil over a heavier oil to lock it in without the sticky feel.
How It Compares to Argan Oil
Argan oil is the most common comparison point, and the two oils share a similar fatty acid profile. The practical difference is weight: argan oil is slightly heavier and takes longer to absorb. For fine or thin hair, apricot oil is the better standalone option because it conditions without dragging hair down. Argan oil works better for thick, coarse, or very dry hair that needs more intense moisture.
Apricot oil is also significantly cheaper than argan oil, which makes it easier to use generously for pre-wash treatments or scalp massages without worrying about burning through an expensive bottle.
Mixing With Other Products
You can add 3 to 5 drops of apricot oil to your regular conditioner for a moisture boost during your normal wash routine. Just mix it into a palm-full of conditioner, apply, and leave it on for a few minutes before rinsing. This is a low-commitment way to test how your hair responds before dedicating time to standalone oil treatments.
Apricot oil also works well as a carrier for essential oils. If you want to use rosemary or peppermint oil on your scalp (both popular for stimulating circulation), dilute 2 to 3 drops of the essential oil into a teaspoon of apricot oil before applying. Never put essential oils directly on your scalp without a carrier.
Will It Clog Your Pores?
Apricot kernel oil sits at a 2 on the comedogenic scale, which runs from 0 (won’t clog pores) to 5 (very likely to). A rating of 2 means it has a low chance of causing breakouts, even when applied to the scalp or along the hairline where oil tends to migrate onto skin. For comparison, coconut oil rates a 4, which is why it causes forehead and back-of-neck breakouts for many people who use it in their hair. If you’re acne-prone, apricot oil is one of the safer choices for scalp and hair use.
Storing It Properly
The high unsaturated fat content that makes apricot oil so good for hair also makes it vulnerable to going rancid. Light and heat are the main enemies. Oil stored in transparent bottles degrades noticeably faster than oil kept in amber or dark-colored glass, which blocks the UV wavelengths that accelerate oxidation. Research on storage stability found that apricot kernel oil in amber bottles maintained its quality for at least six months at room temperature, while oil in clear bottles showed significant increases in peroxide value (a marker of rancidity) over the same period.
Keep your bottle in a cool, dark place like a cabinet or drawer. If your home runs warm, the refrigerator works fine and won’t change the oil’s properties. Once it starts smelling sharp, bitter, or like crayons instead of its normal mild, nutty scent, it’s oxidized and should be replaced. Most bottles will last 6 to 12 months after opening if stored properly.